LAKE GEORGE AND SHAWNEE
— The crowd cheers and calls out encouragement as the rider nudges her horse faster past the barrels — and then they both seem to lean their heads at the same angle as they race toward the wrangler waiting at the end of the rodeo arena.
“Go, Sheryl! You can do it!” folks are yelling from the stands, and Sheryl Wallace grins as she waves before bringing her gelding to a textbook-clean stop, and then dismounts, swats the dust from her backside and walks back to her place with the rest of the group as the next rider is called.
It’s Saturday afternoon at Tarryall River Ranch, and this is the end-of-the-week rodeo, the chance for guests at the 100-acre ranch to cowboy up and strut their stuff, proving that their time spent with a horse chosen just for them — and the ensuing sore rear ends — wasn’t for naught.
“I just turned 50, and I promised myself that as a present to me, I would do something I had never done before,” said Wallace, who was visiting from Pierceton, Ind. “Well, coming to a dude ranch out West was it.”
She had packed up her SUV and driven from Indiana by herself after choosing Tarryall from a dude-ranch website. “It was so cool, seeing this part of the country and then doing something like this. You learn a lot about yourself and other people in this kind of setting.”
The setting at Tarryall couldn’t be more picture-perfect: The ranch sits along County Road 77 in Park County, in a sea of aspens and ponderosa pines, adjacent to Lost Creek Wilderness Area with a clear view of Pikes Peak and the Tarryall River to play in.
Play is uppermost on the minds of the kids who are running around the ranch, many of whom seem to be veteran dude- ranch guests. One particularly articulate young lady informs me that she was recently at a ranch where there were 150 guests, and no one there could remember her name. “I like smaller ranches like this one,” said Emily McCoy, 13, from Omaha. “It’s just friendlier. The staff here is so nice, I wish I were related to them.”
You can’t pay guests to be better ambassadors than that.
The McCoy kids — including Maggie, 12, Sam, 9, and Kate, 7 — actually were some of the best entertainment of the week, especially during the finale of the rodeo when they got to pick the horses that the wranglers would ride to show off their skills. After a week of the guests feeling a bit self-conscious because they were learning, it was quite humorous to let them feel a little smug as the youngsters forced hunky wrangler Matt Montei to climb on one of the tiniest mares — he wasn’t allowed to adjust the stirrups, either, so that his knees were up around his ears — and run the barrels.
That evening brought the talent show, when several kids, including the McCoys and their newfound friends Molly Konopik, 9, and Joe Konopik, 6, from Clive, Iowa, and Clara Ganz, 7, from Portland, Ore., were brave enough to sing on their own. A few even played the piano and sang “Home on the Range.” Everyone pitched in to sing the old standards — “Don’t Fence Me In” and “She’ll Be Coming Round the Mountain” — and the staff ran through a few goofy routines they had worked up, as well.
Then the staff that had spent the week with the youngsters went over what they had been doing, and it became clear that this is a place that spends some serious time on its kids’ programs.
“I know I’m getting old for some of this stuff,” Emily said as she showed off her crafts. “But it’s still fun, and I like to keep busy.”
The good news for her is, if her family decides to come back to Tarryall, there still will be plenty for her to do. In addition to the crafts and quality petting-zoo time that the younger set gets, kids ages 6 to 11 go hiking, fishing and riding, while the teens head out whitewater rafting, on cookouts and swimming and to the nearby wolf preserve.
“I raised a few teens myself, so I know we have to keep them interested without turning them off with stupid stuff. You just have to offer them choices,” said Tarryall owner Kevin Tesch, who with his wife, Lisa, bought the ranch in 2003.
He ought to know — the couple raised four boys, all of whom as adults now work the ranch with them: Kelvin, Kurtis, Kody and Klayton. Kelvin is the head wrangler, and Kody usually can be found in the office, as well as playing the piano during the singalongs (he also plays a mean Beethoven). Kelvin’s wife, Bridget Tesch, is responsible for many of the amazing dishes that come out of the kitchen.
Making the ranch a family affair seems to have made a difference with the staff, as well. “Running a ranch is hard work,” said Janine Cage, a wrangler and Colorado native who in her spare time at Tarryall has taken on trying to save a baby calf dropped off from a nearby ranch. “I want to own my own bed-and-breakfast some day, and watching the Tesches make this a success is something, let me tell you.”
Fish or horses? Or a massage?
At the North Fork Ranch, a few early afternoon cumulus clouds have just begun to roll in, turning the North Fork River a gunmetal gray and giving the fishermen along it some needed relief from the sun.
The clouds don’t bother the father- and-son teams inside the main lodge, either, as they learn the intricate details of fly-tying during a fishing clinic, nor any of the cowboy-boot-clad ladies, ranging in age from 9 to mid-40s, heading out of the corral on their trusty steeds for an afternoon trail ride into the surrounding forest.
The windows of the tiny massage cabin had already been darkened, so that inside its log walls, a mother of two receiving her afternoon of extra-special pampering would be as relaxed as possible. And down near the river’s edge, a guest on a wooden porch swing just a few feet from the rhythmic burbling of the water takes advantage of the cooler breezes and settles in for a nap.
In other words, it’s another beautiful day at the North Fork, where everyone seems to be able to find something appealing to do — even if it’s simply embracing the peace and quiet found on this 520-acre property tucked in between the Pike National Forest and the two designated wilderness areas of Lost Creek and Mount Evans.
Since 1985, owners Karen and Dean May also have found plenty to do here. The hospitable couple met while working at another Colorado dude ranch in 1984, and they’ve been honing the craft of welcoming folks ever since, doing much of the work on the ranch themselves and raising their two kids at North Fork — eldest daughter Hayley, who can be found racing back and forth between buildings, is about to leave for college this fall, and their wrangling son Tyler won’t be too far behind.
The sprawling, tree-lined destination offers several individual cabins that can house multiple families, and the Wildhorse Lodge has rooms for individuals or couples — all sporting a Western theme and filled with cozy country quilts and other homey touches — as well as the circa-1930, Southwestern-styled “Stonehenge” building that sits secluded at the back of the property with private-entrance rooms for families and individuals and its own hot tub.
“Every time I come here, it’s so hard to leave,” said Shelly Beyer, a Wheat Ridge resident who is on her third visit since 2001. This time she has brought her two daughters, Savannah, 14, and Shenia, 9, and her boyfriend, Saul Simental, as well as her sister and niece. “The first time, it was with my mom, and she was bringing a girlfriend who broke her leg, so my mom called at the last minute and said, ‘Hey, can you fill in?’ It was the best time I’d ever had. So every time I leave, I just have to figure out a way to get back here again.”
The Beyers are quickly downing a tasty breakfast of fluffy blueberry pancakes with sides of bacon, fresh fruit and orange juice in the Wildhorse, because today is whitewater rafting day and no one wants to miss it. “We ride at home, because we have horses ourselves,” Beyer said. “So that’s not even the main draw. The scenery is spectacular, and there is so much to do, we’re never bored, even after coming here so many times.”
Feeling like a well-fed family
Like many of the 29 other members of the Colorado Dude and Guest Ranch Association, North Fork has altered some of its “dudeness” over the years to offer amenities guests have asked for — things such as rafting and massage, and their current best seller, fly-fishing. “We never thought way back when, when we were fixing up the barn, that fly-fishing could possibly turn out to be the bigger draw one day,” Karen said.
North Fork was recently added to the national roster of Orvis- endorsed fly-fishing lodges, and with the vigorous North Fork of the South Platte River zooming smack through it, there’s plenty of opportunity to throw a line in with the ranch’s full-time fish-hatchery manager and guide of 23 years, Kevin Gregory, who before letting guests loose on the catch-and-release river lets them work the stocked pond.
Fishing not your thing? Each day during the week-long adventure — you can stay for as few as three days, but most people don’t — still brings another chance to hop on a horse, whether for a champagne brunch ride to 9,000 feet or a languorous lunch ride. Hiking opportunities are endless, considering the locale, and there are other short-term ways to occupy one’s time here: trap-shooting, swimming in the pool, petting the critters in the petting zoo, playing horseshoes or, if you must be inside, playing pingpong or billiards in the rec center.
Whatever you choose, it’s a good idea to pick something that will work up an appetite. Meals are staggeringly filling, and it’s hard to pass anything up — always appetizers first, and then traditional cowboy fare of brand-your-own steaks or barbecued chicken cooked on the open grill one night and a full-on Mexican feast the next — with desserts such as fresh-fruit cobblers and hot-fudge-topped brownie sundaes to finish. Not to mention fresh-baked cookies tucked into jars all over the place for the munchies anytime.
As the sun goes down, cowboy singer Will Dudley might show up from Walsenburg for an evening of tunes around the campfire, complete with hot chocolate and a few jokes; he sounds like Willie Nelson, and he makes the kids feel special. On other nights, a mountain man appears out of nowhere and shares tales of carving out a hardscrabble life, or there could be a hayride or a square dance.
“To us, this is just the perfect vacation,” Beyer said. “You get exercise, you get to relax, and they make you feel like family.”
Kyle Wagner: 303-954-1599 or travel@denverpost.com
The Details
Tarryall River Ranch, 27001.5 County Road 77, Lake George, 719-748-1214, 800-408-8407, . Open May-September. Rates start at $1,400 per person for a week-long stay, all-inclusive (rafting overnight pack trip and gratuity not included). Children 6-11 start at $1,050; ages 3-5 $700; under 3 $175. Special early- and late-season rates involving a three-night stay are offered; see website for details. Activities include horseback riding, fly-fishing, river-rafting, hiking, swimming, square dancing, sand volleyball and children’s programs.
North Fork Guest Ranch, 303-838-9873, 800-843-7895, . Open May through mid-October. Rates start at $1,925 per person for a week- long stay, all-inclusive (gratuity not included). Children 6-11 start at $2,000 per person; under 6 $800 per person. They also offer an $850 nanny rate, as well as shorter-stay rates; see website for details. Activities include horseback riding, fly-fishing, river-rafting, hiking, swimming, target, trap and bow-and-arrow shooting, square dancing and day trips to Breckenridge.
Dude, where’s my ranch?
Colorado has a ranch for every taste, and these are some of our favorites. Most of them offer week-long dude-ranch programs through the summer and some are open year-round, switching to bed-and-breakfast rates (often with minimum-stay requirements) in the off-season.
“All-inclusive” means lodging, horseback riding and on-site fishing, three meals a day and children’s activities are included in the rate. Alcoholic beverages, fishing licenses and sales tax are extra, and gratuities are neither included nor added to the listed rates where noted. Discounts usually are given for children.
For more information on Colorado ranches, visit colorado or .
C Lazy U Ranch, 3640 Colorado 125, Granby, 970-887-3344, .
What roped us in: With its full complement of modern amenities, including a satellite-fed plasma TV in the main lodge, tennis and basketball courts, a sauna and whirlpool alongside the heated pool and hot tub, a well-stocked fitness center and Wi-Fi available, C Lazy U is one of the more modern dude ranches, an upscale experience that pairs a superior horse program (on the trail or in an arena) with fly-fishing and other area outdoor pursuits.
Location: Just north of Granby and southwest of Rocky Mountain National Park.
Rates: Start at $2,350 per person for a week-long stay, all-inclusive (20 percent service charge will be added). Supervised program included for kids age 3-12.
Colorado Cattle Co. & Guest Ranch, 70008 County Road 132, New Raymer, 970-437-5345, coloradocattlecompany.
What roped us in: Adults-only, the Cattle Co. is one of the few remaining dude ranches that still has a delightful “City Slickers” feel, where you can really get your cowboy — and cowgirl — on by heading out on a true cattle drive, and branding, fencing and roping with the staff. They also feature “cowboy school” each day, a chance to get better at the things cowboys do, and “Cowboy Dreams” weeks at which folks can learn barrel racing or horse auctioneering. But the 7,000-acre ranch isn’t all work and no play — there’s an on-site saloon, heated indoor pool and sauna.
Location: Fort Collins is a hop- skip away, and when the rivers are running, the proximity to the Cache La Poudre means you can take a day off from riding for a day of dodging whitewater.
Rates: Start at $1,799 per person for a week-long stay, all-inclusive (gratuity not included).
Devil’s Thumb Ranch, 3 miles east of U.S. 40 on County Road 83, Tabernash, 800-933-4339, 970-726-5632, devilsthumbranch .
What roped us in: One of the more environmentally friendly ranches in the country, the year-round Devil’s Thumb is also one of the most comfortable, with luxurious cabins and a new lodge (with bowling alley!), a horse program that truly encourages riders to spread out and achieve new skills, and a world- class spa. The on-site restaurant serves exceptional food made with local ingredients when possible and almost always organic ones, and the place prides itself on its dine-in wine cellar — not just the contents, but the stunning space itself, made of 150- year-old cherry from the owner’s family land back East.
Location: Situated on 5,000 acres of land nestled against the James Peak Wilderness Area, ten minutes from Winter Park Resort.
Rates: Start at $315 per night for loft-bedroom cabin and $210 per night for queen/king lodge room; two-night minimum stay regular season, three nights during holidays. Activities, meals and gratuities extra.
Historic Pines Ranch, 379 Chalice Drive, 800-446-9462, West- cliffe, .
What roped us in: The sort of “best of both worlds” option of Cow Camp is available at Historic Pines, which has the Sangre de Cristo mountains as a gorgeous backdrop. Cow Camp offers three nights out moving cattle and three nights in the ranch’s cabins, so guests get to experience a few nights under the stars. And with the Wet Mountain Valley’s 52 lakes, fly-fishing is a nice alternate activity. Kids get some extra attention with an all-children’s rodeo, while adults get their own time with singles and couples weeks.
Location: Just west of Westcliffe, nestled against the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness.
Rates: All-inclusive weekly adult starts at $1,200 off-season, $1,500 high season, gratuity not included.
The Home Ranch, 54880 Routt County Road 129, Clark, 970-879-1780, .
What roped us in: Amazing gourmet food is served at this 1,500-acre Relais & Châteaux property with the Elk River running through it and the Routt National Forest as a next-door neighbor. Owners Steve and Ann Stranahan and their partner, Ken Jones, have been instrumental in helping keep the land along County Road 129 from being developed, and their efforts have paid off in the pristine environment surrounding the area. One of the few dude ranches in Colorado that allows guests to ride — conditions permitting — year-round, it also offers adults-only weeks in the fall, as well as kid-oriented programs including rock climbing and teen activities such as campouts, and pizza and bowling in town.
Location: Just past Clark, 18 miles north of Steamboat Springs.
Rates: Start at $5,175 for two people for week-long stay, all-inclusive, gratuity not included.
Powderhorn Guest Ranch, 1525 County Road 27, Powderhorn, 800-786-1220, powderhorn .
What roped us in: We discovered this fly-fishing mecca on Cebolla Creek during its Gourmet Week eight years ago, when it began inviting chefs from Colorado and other Four Corner states to cook during an adults-only week of feasting each September. Since then, the place just keeps getting better, with a solid horse program and comfy individual cabins for guests. Daily jeep trips into the surrounding mountains, whitewater trips on the Taylor River or float trips on the Gunnison, square dancing, campfire singalongs with a cowboy musician and kids programs add to the well-rounded activities roster, and they’ve added a licensed hunting program, as well.
Location: In the Powderhorn Valley, 36 miles south of Gunnison. Rates: Start at $1,395 per person for week-long stay. Gratuity not included.
Smith Fork Ranch, 8 miles west of Crawford on Needle Rock Road; 970-921-3454, smithforkranch .
What roped us in: A true getaway that feels as though it really is in the middle of nowhere, Smith Fork sits inside Gunnison National Forest and along the Smith Fork of the Gunnison River, with seven trout ponds and Needle Rock, a huge chunk of volcanic ash that sits sentry. The early-1900s log cabins have big porches and wood stoves, and if you don’t feel like hanging out with the rest of the guests, the chef will send your dinner to you. Get a massage, try one of the wines from their well-stocked cellar, look at the stars through their high-powered telescope, learn how to rope a steer or shoot with a bow and arrow. The family-friendly spot caters to kids, and special weekends, such as the popular culinary and cowgirl ones, fill up fast.
Location: At the edge of the West Elk Wilderness, about 8 miles east of Crawford.
Rates: Start at $5,440 for two people for a week-long stay; 15 percent service charge will be added.
Sundance Trail Guest Ranch, 17931 Red Feather Lakes Road, Red Feather Lakes, 800-357-4930 or 970-224-1222, .
What roped us in: Laid-back and nurturing, this well-situated ranch run by two former nurses in hospice care is 140 acres of fun and casual comfort. Good food, a welcoming atmosphere and a focus on a safe horse program makes the place a hit with family reunions, and the cabins located away from the main lodge and alpine setting give it a secluded feel. The firing range, which kids are allowed to use (supervised and with proper instruction), is popular, especially when Big Bertha, the .50-caliber muzzle loader, gets pulled out. On clear days, the trail rides nab stunning views of the Mummy Range.
Location: Near Red Feather Lakes next to Roosevelt National Forest.
Rates: Start at $1,400 per person for a week-long stay. Gratuity not included.
Sylvan Dale Guest Ranch, 2939 N. County Road 31D, Loveland, 877-667-3999, .
What roped us in: The Jessup family has been running this sprawling setup on the Big Thompson River for 62 years; it’s a 3,200-acre Colorado institutions. Still a working ranch, Sylvan Dale does offer the opportunity for guests to help move, pen and brand cattle once they demonstrate adequate horsemanship skills, and overnight Cow Camp retraces English author and traveler Isabella Bird’s 1873 attempt to reach Estes Park from Sylvan Dale. Looking for something a little tamer? Churn fresh butter before dinner, and afterward, sing along with the rest of the group during dessert. Fishing in the Big Thompson and tennis on the well-maintained courts are other popular pursuits.
Location: An hour north of Denver and just west of Loveland; Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park are less than 20 miles away.
Rates: Start at $1,915 per person for week-long stay. Gratuity not included.
Winding River Resort, 1.5 miles west of U.S. 34 on Road 491, 970-627-3215, 303-623-1121, .
What roped us in: Not technically a dude ranch, Winding River is still worth checking out. More for those who are about getting out there than getting a massage, Winding River is rugged and right-on, jammed against the majestic razor stubble of ponderosas that throw their 5 o’clock shadow across Rocky Mountain National Park. Spend the day watching the elk watch you, then trek around the park, or pop over to Grand Lake for some town time. Stay in one of the no-frills cabins, the bunkhouse or the lodge, all filled with locally made log furniture, or park your RV or tent — or your own horse, for that matter. Hayrides, pony rides and chuckwagon suppers keep the kids happy. Open year-round, the 160-acre ranch, bookended by Byers Peak and the snow-frosted Never Summer range of RMNP, is heaven for snowmobilers, cross-country skiers and snowshoers.
Location: A mile and a half north of Grand Lake, the entrance is across the road from the Kawuneeche Visitor Center for Rocky Mountain National Park.
Rates: Start at $85 per night (two-night minimum). Activities extra. Cabins have kitchens; the only meals offered on-site are the chuckwagon suppers.
Kyle Wagner
