Mention potato salad to most Americans and they’re likely to think of it one of two ways, neither particularly appetizing: ice-cold from the deli cooler at the supermarket, or warm and queasy-making, a big plastic bowl of it sweating on a picnic table attracting no one but the flies.
The standard combination of potatoes with mayonnaise isn’t one of my favorites. I prefer what’s known as German Potato Salad — the potatoes are dressed warm in a mustard vinaigrette with the delicious addition of crumbled bacon.
Even better is the recipe below: The salad, made with small, sweet, first-of-the-season local potatoes, is tossed with roasted peppers, extra-virgin olive oil and sherry vinegar and tangy, vinegary white anchovies and capers.
Starches — beans, grains, rice and root vegetables — are less dense and more appetizing if they’re served at least slightly warm.
The potatoes are boiled in assertively salted water, drained, cooled at room temperature, then lightly colored in olive oil, seasoned and splashed with strong vinegar.
Ten years ago, when I still considered myself a French chef and shared the French predilection for torturing food into unnatural shapes, I cut out the potatoes with a melon baller and stacked them like a display of fruit at the supermarket. Nowadays I just slice the potatoes crossways and serve them up.
John Broening cooks at Duo Restaurant, .
Warm Pan Potato Salad
Serves 6
Ingredients
2 pounds fingerling, small red or Yellow Finn potatoes, scrubbed
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 cup sliced scallions
12 white anchovies, cut or torn in half lengthwise
3 tablespoons capers
1 roasted pepper, cut into thin strips
2 teaspoons marjoram leaves
Handful arugula leaves
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Directions
Place the potatoes in a pot and barely cover with water. Season with a couple tablespoons of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down to a simmer
and cook until tender, about 15-20 minutes depending on the size of the potatoes. Drain carefully and cool the potatoes. Slice into rounds.
In a large skillet over medium heat, warm half the olive oil and add the potatoes. Brown lightly on one side, and add the scallions, anchovies, capers,
pepper, and marjoram.
Heat through and transfer to a mixing bowl.
Add the remaining oil, the vinegar and the arugula. Season and serve immediately.
Serve with grilled chicken, beef or salmon.
