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Odell Woodcut No. 1 Oak Aged Ale $24.99 a 750-milliliter bottle

Craft-brewing pioneer Doug Odell has unveiled a limited-edition old-ale-style beauty that’s aged in new American oak barrels. While a bit spendy, this strong (10.6 percent alcohol by volume) ale is a worthy acquisition to spring on friends for a late-summer/early-fall celebration. It opens with a hearty pop, owing to its heavy carbonation. A thick head follows over a hazy dark amber, dissipating with a good dose of lacing. Woodcut pleases with its oak, vanilla and whiskey notes dominant and plum and fig underneath. After it sits for a bit, the mouthfeel is downright silky, and the flavors mingle sweetly on the tongue. Malt also dominates, with some alcohol warmth and an absence of hoppiness. After a summer of wheats and pilsners, it’s a delightful surprise from one of Colorado’s most treasured brewers. Odell Brewing Co., Fort Collins;

Marcus Chamberland;

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