Russian River Damnation $9.98 per 750-milliliter bottle
With the economy taking the proverbial handbasket ride, what better beer with which to salve the wounds than Damnation? California’s Russian River brews a host of Belgian-style ales, this one a clear golden pour with a two-finger white head; if you didn’t know better, you might think someone had poured you an American lager. That misconception would evaporate with the first whiff, which evidences the caramel, spicy and apple-pear notes characteristic of the style. Citrus is there, as well. Damnation is bottle-conditioned, giving it a second fermentation that yields a carbonation whose mouthfeel is close to perfect. Floral hops, right on target on the middle and back of the tongue, give wonderful balance. Pour this heavenly treasure gently — unlike with summer wheats, you don’t want to roust the layer of yeast at the bottom and cloud the beer. This is a terrific fall offering, with alcohol by volume of 7.75 percent by volume.
Russian River Brewing Co., Santa Rosa, Calif.;
Marcus Chamberland;
