They say, in fashion, that there is no such thing as the perfect dress. Rather, there is only the perfect combination: of a dress, a woman and a moment. Transcendence is achieved only when all three elements work in symphony. Even the most beautiful dress, on the wrong woman in the wrong moment, cannot overcome its context.
The same can be said for a restaurant. A restaurant achieves greatness not just by serving good food well, but by serving it in the right neighborhood at the right moment.
Venue Bistro, a friendly kitchen serving thoughtful food in a welcoming Highland neighborhood full of folks looking for thoughtful food, is just such a restaurant.
To call Venue’s food homey would emphasize its inherent qualities of comfort but would shortchange the skill and intellect that goes into its preparation. This is simple, recognizable fare created with dexterity and cadence, and served with clarity and humanity.
A meaty breast of chicken, with crispy skin and moist, carefully seasoned flesh, straddles whipped sweet potatoes and bacon-fatty greens over a bath of a sweet-tangy sauce drawn with garlic and thyme to create a civil, sophisticated country dish. A generous pile of steamed Manila clams and chunks of fennel-flecked sausage, speckled with cilantro, paprika and lime, tumbles over thirsty slices of fresh bread. A bright-yolked fried egg, supple with creamy potential, drapes over a crunchy, buttery, cheese-and-hammy croque madame.
Any of these dishes, helped down with a table-poured selection from the by-the-glass wine list, would correctly inspire a return visit to Venue, particularly if the travel overhead on that visit is no higher than a few-block-walk.
Venue is a restaurant with a simple mission (“good food, good wine, and most importantly good company,” according to the website) with a simple look-and-feel: A dozen-ish tables in a whitewashed room accessorized with whimsical fixtures crafted from tableware (dinner plate sconces, cup-and-saucer pendant lights, stark black-and-white photographs).
The casual-but-civilized tone is set by owner Holly Hartnett, who is, it appears, always at Venue. Her style — characterized by an easy, relaxed exterior that suggests copious dedication and focus — makes for a stressless vibe. This is no small feat; stresslessness is a virtue unknown in any working kitchen, so to maintain ownership of such a small space without betraying the sweat that’s certainly pouring behind the scenes indicates veins flowing with instinctive hostess-ness.
Hartnett’s tone-setting also no doubt directs the food, created with care and blessed restraint by young chef de cuisine James Rugile and his team. His rich short rib over roasted tomatoes and rainbow chard is a triumph of Colorado comfort- food. And the agnolotti, if slightly tough at the hand-formed seams, was a lovely gathering of trumpet mushrooms and leeks.
Not all is perfect on the plate, however well-intentioned. In need of triage: The white bean soup with ham hock, which I’ve ordered twice, and which, twice, has been bereft of anything resembling seasoning or sparkle. And the bread pudding ice cream sandwich, too fussy by a measure, was a clunky, disappointing mess. Call for the ginger-beer float instead, made sublime with Red Trolley ice cream.
And I cannot fathom why there is only one totally vegetarian item on the entree side of the menu. For shame.
But these rough edges are easily avoided. Do not let them dissuade you from a prompt visit to Venue.
Here is its place, and now is its moment.
Tucker Shaw: dining@denverpost.com
Venue Bistro
American. 3609 W. 32nd Ave., 303-477-0477,
*** Rating | (Great)
Atmosphere: Tiny, well-managed room that balances austerity with whimsy
Service: Gracious, competent, swift and knowledgable
Wine: Whip-smart wine list, short and sweet and well-administered
Plates: Appetizers, $5-$12; main courses $16-$21.
Hours: Lunch (brunch on weekends) and dinner Wednesday-Monday. Closed Tuesdays.
Details: Reservations accepted but rarely needed. Street parking can be a challenge. Wheelchair accessible. Call ahead for gluten- free items. Happy hour specials.
Three visits.
Our star system:
****: Excellent.
***: Great.
**: Very Good.
*: Good.
