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Coney Island Human Blockhead, by Shmaltz Brewing Co. $5.49 per 22-ounce bottle

Human Blockhead is a bock-style brew in the Coney Island series by the New York madcaps behind He’Brew. The startling label features a drawing of Coney Island sideshow freak Donny Vomit pounding a nail into his left nostril. The pour is a clear reddish brown, with a medium wheat-colored head. Sweet malt dominates the aroma, which reminds of the smell of an outdoor music festival — it’ll whet your appetite for spring. The flavor is complex, owing to the eight varieties of grains and six hops used in its brewing. It’s mostly sweet caramel with rye, followed by a bitter hop finish and some alcohol warmth on the swallow. Mouthfeel is thin, drinkability refreshing. Alcohol by volume a somewhat sneaky 10 percent. Stay away from hammers.

Shmaltz Brewing Co., Saratoga Springs, N.Y.;

Marcus Chamberland

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