Like peas and tarragon or carrots and chervil, or even a shirtdress with a silk scarf, asparagus and Meyer lemon is one of those combinations that tell you spring is well on the way.
Asparagus is available year-round at the supermarket, but to me tastes good only between the beginning of March and the end of May.
Meyer lemons, which are actually Chinese in origin (though I’ve yet to encounter them in a Chinese restaurant) are now, thanks to Alice Waters of Berkeley’s Chez Panisse, a staple of Bay Area cooking that’s spread to the rest of the country.
They have a soft, sweetly perfumed rind and a flavor that is an intoxicating cross between a lemon and a tangerine. They are wonderful in desserts — try substituting Meyer lemon for regular lemon in a curd recipe — and especially good with fish or spring vegetables like peas, fava beans, baby carrots, or as in the recipe at left, asparagus.
The dressing, which also is also great with greens, is lightly thickened with a little egg yolk and Dijon- style mustard.
Asparagus seems to demand a lot of seasoning, so it should be cooked in generously salted water, and tossed with additional salt and a lavish amount of dressing.
Serve this asparagus warm or at room temperature.
John Broening cooks at Duo restaurant, .
Jumbo Asparagus With Meyer Lemon Dressing
Serves 4
Ingredients
20 spears jumbo asparagus (about 1 pound), peeled
Coarse sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
Meyer lemon dressing (recipe below)
Directions
In a pot of boiling, heavily salted water, cook the asparagus about 4 minutes. Drain well. Shock in a bowl of ice water until cool, then drain well.
If serving warm, toss the asparagus with about 1/3 cup of the dressing. Season with coarse salt and freshly ground pepper.
Meyer Lemon Dressing
Ingredients
Juice and zest of 3 Meyer lemons
1 teaspoon mustard
1 tablespoon egg yolk (discard the rest)
1 small shallot, minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 cups canola oil
Directions
In a mixing bowl, whisk together the juice and zest, mustard, egg yolk, shallot, and salt and pepper. Whisk in the canola oil in a slow stream to emulsify.
Note: This recipe will make a little extra dressing.
