Think Denver’s a cowtown? Check again. Fact is, we’ve gone noodle crazy.
Thai noodles. Chinese noodles. Italian noodles. It hasn’t happened overnight, but Denver, historically overloaded with burgers, burritos and bratwurst, can now add noodles to its short list of ubiquitous snacks. Pricey or cheap, uptown or down, east side or west, noodles are everywhere.
Dozens of mom-and-pop shops feed our noodle jones, from Richard Lee Noodles and J’s Noodles on Federal to Pho 79 III on Havana to the good old Saucy Noodle (“If you don’t like garlic, go home!”) in Bonnie Brae.
Add in at least two fast-growing, home-grown, noodle-focused chains making big waves — Tokyo Joe’s and Noodles & Co. — plus more on the horizon including XO Noodles at the Jet Hotel downtown, and there’s no doubt about it: Denver has really started using its noodle.
Top 10
Pho at Pho Duy
Come early or late to avoid the midday stampede at this strip-mall favorite where local lunch-seekers line up for a bowl of pho: a rich, sweet-savory broth with skinny, wiggly little noodles, meat (or not) of your choice, and a wide range of add-in vegetables, herbs and spices. Depending on the pho you choose, you’ll spend $5 and up.
Several locations, including: 945 S. Federal Blvd., Denver, 303-937-1609 and 6600 W. 120th Ave., Broomfield, 303-438-7197. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Tonkotsu Ramen at Oshima Ramen
Choose the invigorating soy-based shoyu broth for lunch and the pork-bone based tonkotsu for dinner. Why? Because the tonkotsu broth induces, in the following order: Soft slurping sounds, satisfied smiles and stomach-rubs, slowing conversation and sweet dreams. The noodles here, made on site, have a stiff-supple texture that can’t be packaged or purchased. Under $12.
7800 E. Hampden Ave., Denver, 720-482-0264. Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday.
Udon Noodles at Bones
A winning concept before it even opened its doors, this Capitol Hill draw is the Denver love child of a Tokyo train-station lunch counter and an upscale urban noodle bar (see: Momofuku), complete with pork-belly buns and soft-serve ice cream. The $16 lobster ramen bowl has its fans, but it’s the udon bowl with rich pork, soft-cooked egg and slurpable noodles ($11) that really delivers.
701 Grant St., Denver, 303-860-2929, . Lunch weekdays, dinner seven days.
Pad Thai at US Thai
Two-plus years after moving into its Edgewater digs, US Thai has become a part of the Sloan’s Lake landscape — a necessary one. There are Thai restaurants in every neighborhood (just look around for your local), but US Thai is one of the few (Pearl of Siam and Taste of Thailand are others) that is worth driving to. Ingredients are fresh and exquisitely handled, carefully spiced and simply presented. Under $10.
5228 W. 25th Ave., Edgewater, 303-233-3345. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday; .
Linguine Alfredo at Mark & Isabella
After a couple of fits and starts, this space in the bullseye of Belmar has started to catch heat with Mark & Isabella, a stylish restaurant with a menu split between contemporary and traditional Italian dishes. For an old-school flashback, call for the linguine Alfredo ($13), a soft, creamy, surprisingly light toss of house-made pasta with a background nip from crushed red pepper flakes.
425 S. Teller St., Lakewood, 303-934-7800, . Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday.
Spaghetti with Red Sauce at Pagliacci’s
North Denver is lousy with good Italian — between Gaetano’s, Lechuga’s and Parisi, pasta aficionados have plenty to compare and contrast. One reason we like Pagliacci’s is the classic Amer-Ital interior, complete with tutti frutti lighting and basket-wrapped chianti bottles. Get the classic spaghetti with tomato sauce ($15.50) as an entree, or take a half order aside a plate of chicken parmigiana.
1440 W. 33rd Ave., Denver, 303-458-0530, . Dinner Tuesday-Sunday.
Dan Dan Noodles at Chopsticks China Bistro
If you can stand the heat, Chopsticks China Bistro is your kind of restaurant, and the dan dan noodles (a steal at $4.25) is your kind of dish. Soft, squiggly noodles sit atop a sauce-on-the-bottom nest of extra-spicy pepper sauce. Get the sesame pockets (stuffed with your choice of savory meat or veggie filling) to round out your meal.
2990 W. Mississippi Ave., Denver, 303-936-1506. Lunch and dinner seven days.
Yakisoba Noodles at Happy Noodle House
An exacting, chef-driven approach to ingredients and techniques sets this Republic of Boulder noodle bar apart. Think anyone else in the state is turning out a yakisoba plate with king salmon? Think again. Another prime draw: Killer cocktails, including a refreshing take on a Singapore Sling. Now open for lunch. Noodle bowls from $9.50 to $17.
835 Walnut St. Boulder, 303-442-3050, . Lunch and dinner seven days.
Cold Noodles at Lao Wang Noodle House
Cold noodles are picnic noodles, and on your way to your next al fresco lunch, this tiny Taiwanese storefront shop (in the same strip mall as Pho Duy) is a must-stop. Pick up the fresh, lightly-dressed cold sesame noodles ($6.95), which are lithe and toothsome, unlike most of the other peanut-butter- drenched versions in town. Pair them with a cucumber salad ($2.95) and a cold Coke, and you’ve just had the perfect summer meal. (Second alternative: stay on site for potstickers and five-spice beef noodle soup.)
945 S. Federal Blvd., Denver, 303-975-2497. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.
Speedy Noodles at Taki’s
Hang out in this Colfax noodle shop for long enough and you’re likely to see all kinds of local celebrities, from politicians to restaurateurs to drag queens out of costume. Longtime regulars sing the praises of the speedy service and inexpensive dishes, especially the fresh, healthful tofu yakisoba. Hit it with a dash of hot sauce for maximum impact. Noodle dishes about $5 and up.
341 E. Colfax Ave., Denver, 303-832-8440. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only on weekends.
