Restaurants are listed alphabetically.
AMERICAN
Beatrice & Woodsley
38 S. Broadway, 303-777-3505,
(Great) Small plates all under $20, but you’ll order a few. The dishes on what is perhaps Denver’s most creative menu usually score, with rare exceptions. Settle in for a couple of hours and order a succession of dishes; everything’s meant to be shared. But guard your Hair of the Frog cocktail (gin, chartreuse and soda) for yourself. Last reviewed December 2008.
VVMasterpiece Deli
1575 Central St. (at 16th St.), 303 561-3354,
(Very Good) Sandwiches $8-$10.50; breakfast sandwiches $4.75 and up. Denver’s sandwich scene took a quantum leap with the opening of Masterpiece Deli, just a block down the hill from Lola in the Lower Highlands neighborhood. Top-shelf ingredients and preparation make the common-sounding sandwiches (Reuben, egg salad) uncommon. Last reviewed April 2009.
Max Gill and Grill
1053 S. Gaylord St., 303-722-7456,
(Very Good) Appetizers $9-$14; mains $9-$25. Fish freaks and meat heads come together at this surf-and-turf restaurant on Old South Gaylord. One of Denver’s best lobster rolls, and a decent filet of beef. Last reviewed November 2008.
VRoot Down
1600 W. 33rd Ave., 303-993-4200,
V(Very Good/Great) Plates $7-$22, with most around $9-$11. An eclectic menu of innovative, flavorful small dishes (many of which are vegetarian) drives this forward-thinking eatery and watering hole, fashioned from a reclaimed garage. Last reviewed March 2009.
Shazz
4262 Lowell Blvd., 303-477-1407,
(Very Good/Great) Appetizers $7-$11; mains $24-$35. Chef Benny Kaplan is one of Denver’s best, and his commitment to locally sourced, sustainable food is commendable. Don’t miss the braised oxtail appetizer, served over asiago grits, and don’t miss a few minutes at the bar for a signature cocktail mixed with house- made ingredients such as grenadine and orgeat. Last reviewed April 2009.
Steakhouse Ten
3517 S. Elati St., Englewood, 303-789-0911,
(Very Good) Entrees $22-34. Cozy clubby little steakhouse in Englewood gets the heat right every time: Rare is rare and medium is medium. The vibe here is just right for quiet tête-u-têtes and private dinners. Greek specialties round out the menu. Open for lunch, too. Last reviewed May 2009.
VVTwelve
2233 Larimer St., 303-293-0287,
V(Great/Exceptional) Entrees $22-$28. Wedged into a tiny storefront in the northern reaches of LoDo, this newcomer changes its menu monthly — 12 times a year. So don’t get attached to a favorite dish. Instead, have your socks knocked off by chef Jeff Osaka’s brilliant technical skills and instinctive flavor-play. Last reviewed February 2009.
EUROPEAN
Bistro One
1294 S. Broadway, 720-974-0602,
(Very Good) Appetizers $5-$9; mains $14-$22. Smart cocktails start supper at this contemporary neighborhood bistro, where standard bistro fare (steak frites) shares menu space with more innovative dishes. Clever cocktails and a small, user- friendly wine list round out the experience. Last reviewed December 2008.
Brasserie Felix
3901 Tennyson St., 303-953-2401,
(Very good) Appetizers $5.95-$12.95, mains $14.95-$20.95. A great example of the Americanized French Brasserie, with accessible and relevant fare like steak frites, mussels and croque monsieurs. Small but serviceable wine list. Great sunny room looks even better at lunchtime. Last reviewed April 2009.
Farro
8230 S. Holly St., 303-694-5432,
(Very Good) Almost nothing over $15. The southern suburbs are awash in restaurants, but precious few of them are any good. Enter Farro, at the corner of Holly Street and County Line Road, which serves homey, substantial fare with a casual-elegant twist. Good wine list, too. Last reviewed February 2009.
Indulge French Bistro
French. 4140 W. 38th Ave., 303-433-7400,
(Very good/Great) Appetizers $6.50-16. Entrees $16-$28. This small, hospitably operated bistro in North Denver changes its menu frequently, but you can always count on a well-executed steak frites, an inexpensive glass of house wine, and a cheery welcome. Tip for seasonal eaters: Order seafood; it’s almost always nicely prepared here. Last reviewed May 2009.VV
Vita
1575 Boulder St., 303-477-4600
(Very Good/Great) Small plates $6-$12; main courses $17-$28. Prepare to be surprised by the clear, simple Mediterranean flavors at this otherwise glitzy-glam restaurant. The crispy polenta sandwich stuffed with pork confit is a standout. Skip the silly martinis and order a straightforward gimlet, or stick to the ample list of wines offered by the glass. Last reviewed February 2007.
Zamparelli’s Italian Bistro
2770 Arapahoe Road, Lafayette, 303-664-1275 (Very Good) Pastas $7-$15; salads $4-$9; pizzas (12-inch) $9-$14 and up. Lafayette is lucky to have Zamparelli’s in the neighborhood; it serves just the kind of casual but well-produced Italian cuisine that merits once-a-week visits. Crowd pleasers like pasta Bolognese and chicken marsala share menu space with brick-oven pizzas, some of the best in the northern ‘burbs. Bring your dog and hang on the patio out front. Last reviewed August 2007.
ASIAN
Chopsticks China Bistro
2990 W. Mississippi Ave., 303-936-1506 (Very Good) Starters $2.99-$7.95; entrees $7.95-$23.95. Relaxed, casual, family-friendly neighborhood Chinese restaurant with a menu that balances familiar fare like juicy pork dumplings with more exciting stuff like salt-and-pepper frog. Hospitable service overcomes any rough edges. Spicy dan dan noodles make a perfect $3.95 lunch. Last reviewed January 2007.
VIndia’s Pearl
1475 S. Pearl St., 303-777-1533 V (Very Good/Great) Starters $3.95-$9.95; entrees $10.95-$24.95. Surprised that an Indian restaurant would have such an expansive wine list? Don’t be. India’s Pearl proves that Indian food pairs beautifully with wines of all hues. Last reviewed October 2008.
US Thai Cafe
5228 W. 25th Ave., Edgewater, 303-233-3345
V (Very Good/Great) Appetizers $3.95-$5.95; entrees $7.50-$13.95. Curries stand out on the menu at US Thai, especially the evocative, complex green curry — smoky but smooth, soft but sharp, spicy but soothing, entirely irresistible. Get it with a green papaya salad and Thai iced tea. Kids love this place. Takeout available. Last reviewed December 2006
MEXICAN/ SOUTHWESTERN
Brewery Bar II
150 Kalamath St., 303-893-0971
(Very Good) Nothing over $10. Part sports bar, part dive, all soul, the Brewery Bar II smothers most of its excellent combination plates in some of Denver’s tastiest green chile. Brewery Bar II won’t win awards for being fancy, but it will win hearts for being consistent, friendly and cool. Closed Sundays. Last reviewed December 2006.
Las Cazuelas
6757 W. Mississippi Ave., Lakewood, 303-935-2043
(Very Good) Nothing over $10. This family-friendly neighborhood Mexican restaurant features a greatest-hits menu of Mexican-restaurant favorites: rellenos, carnitas, enchiladas and tamales, plus an addictive, fresh-tasting, pork-laden green chile. Brisk takeout business, too. Last reviewed February 2007.VCARIBBEAN
Eight Rivers Lodo
1550 Blake St., 303-623-3422,
(Very Good) Appetizers $7-$13; mains $15-$19. Denver’s very best rum list anchors this downtown homage to Jamaican cuisine. Think jerk chicken, jerk pork, jerk steak and a beautifully rich-spicy oxtail stew. Happy hour on weekdays. Last reviewed December 2008.
LATIN
Limon
1618 E. 17th Ave., 303-322-0898
(Very Good/Great) Entrees mostly under $20. Set on a hopping strip of East 17th Avenue, Limon serves innovative, contemporary Peruvian food and classic, refreshing cocktails, most notably traditional pisco sours. Come at happy hour for the best deals or later for a quieter dinner.Last reviewed February 2008.
PIZZAMcKinners Pizza Bar
2389 W. Main St., Littleton, 303-798-8500,
(Very Good) Pizzas $9.25 and up; salads $6.25-$9. Downtown Littleton is one of the area’s most pleasant town strips, studded with boutiques and wine shops and restaurants and, happily, McKinners, a favorite watering hole, pizza joint and gathering place for locals. Last reviewed March 2009.
Our star system:
: Exceptional: Great: Very good: Good
