If the only time you’ve spent in Ski Town, U.S.A., is to romp around in its delicious champagne powder to get at some of the best tree skiing in all the land, then now is the perfect time for a return visit. Steamboat Springs is friendly and laid-back, and while it lacks the flash of the glitzier resort areas — which means it also can lack some of the high costs — a bit of a boom continues to unleash a steady flow of new development. Still, when we think about our favorite hot spots in this hot-springs mecca, it’s mostly the oldies that are the goodies. Kyle Wagner
The fall drive to get here
Not only are the leaves starting to make their move from green to gold, red and orange, but the elk are looking for love in all the long stretches of forest along the route. You have options: U.S. 40, with a trip over Berthoud Pass and through Winter Park and Granby; or Colorado 9, for time along the Blue River and views of the Gore Range. Either way, you wind up on Rabbit Ears Pass just before dropping into town, after having just spent a little more than 160 miles watching the gorgeous scenery go by. And don’t forget that school is back in session, which means a weekday journey will be less crowded.
F.M. Light & Sons
On the drive, you may have seen one or two — or the more than a 100 — yellow signs with black lettering for this 104-year-old store, which specializes in Western clothing, hats, boots, accessories and souvenirs and is still run by family. They’re famous for the straw cowboy hats for $4.99, which make a nice, goofy remembrance of your visit to Steamboat, and the horse out front is a favorite for photo opportunities. The staff is friendly and helpful, and will work at tracking down your Western favorites.
830 Lincoln Ave., 970-879-1822,
Cowboys, baby
One of the few resort areas in the state where folks wearing cowboy boots have a better than average chance of actually having muddied them mucking out stalls, Steamboat is still rancher territory. It gives the town its air of Western authenticity and reminds visitors that Colorado is still filled with fabulous cowtowns that celebrate their heritage. The rodeo may be gone until next season, but its influence lives on in the many Western-themed stores, eateries and events that run year-round.
Steamboat Sheraton Resort
After a $20 million renovation, the Sheraton, nestled against the ski mountain with views of the Ski Village and the Yampa Valley, is one of the most appealing properties in the area. The addition of villas and updating of the rooms, lobby and eateries have completely transformed the resort, filling it with relaxing, inviting “pods” for small group gatherings in the public areas and other modern conveniences (see Page 2T for the Room Report).
2200 Village Inn Court, 800-325-3535,
Old Town Hot Springs
One of the more family-friendly locations in the state, Old Town was always a welcoming spot for all ages, but it became even more so over the past two years when it upgraded to two giant water slides and remodeled the pools, installing water-spouting climbing and floating toys in the kiddie pools. Adults-only mineral-springs-fed hot pools and lap pools provide places for quiet relaxation, and decks peppered with lounge chairs and a snack bar that serves reasonably priced lunch items make it possible to make a day of it.
136 Lincoln Ave., 970-879-1828,
Harwig’s/L’Apogee
With its cozy, warmly decorated dining rooms and gracious staff, this charming eatery in the 1880 Harwig Building serves impeccably prepared, innovative fare — ostrich with beet and lavender risotto, scallop carpaccio with grapefruit mignonette — as well as a roster of Thai dishes on Monday nights May-December. If it’s a special occasion or you have a group, ask for the private wine cellar with the ceiling made of corks.
911 Lincoln Ave., 970-879-1919,
Off the Beaten Path Bookstore
Long a local favorite, Off the Beaten Path has moved to a new location with new owners, downsizing the bistro to a coffee shop with baked goods and light fare but expanding the book holdings despite the slightly smaller space — which is good news for lovers of the independent store’s well-varied offerings (they sell new and used books) and commitment to offering national best sellers, as well as a good selection of regional and self-published authors.
68 Ninth St., 800-898-6830,
Strawberry Park Hot Springs
After a 15-minute drive out of town into the forest, with Hot Springs Creek burbling right alongside the series of rock-lined pools and plenty of room to spread out, Strawberry Park feels like a mini-getaway. Pay your entrance fee to the guy who stands at the dirt road in front, then rent a $1 towel if you need it and make your way down to the Adirondack chairs and picnic tables for a day of kicking back. They’ve built a fancy new building with restrooms and changing areas, and there’s a little cabin for massages. After dark, it’s 18-and-over because it’s clothing-optional. Rates (cash only): $10 adults, $5 ages 13-17; $3 ages 3-12.
44200 County Road 36, 970-879-0342, strawberryhot
Freshies Restaurant
Love the name, love the super- friendly staff at this sometimes chaotic but always efficient spot, which serves breakfast and lunch only but does both beautifully. Using fresh, mostly organic and local-when-available ingredients, the kitchen sends out light, perfectly cooked omelettes, piled-high sandwiches, daily soups, inventive salads and well-brewed organic coffee. The must-have, though, is the heavenly, house-baked cinnamon roll, a monster pastry big enough to share — but you won’t. When the weather is nice, try to score a seat on the comfy patio, ideal for people-watching.
595 S. Lincoln Ave., 970-879-8099
Steamboat OktoberWest
It used to be the fall festival, but as of this year’s event, Friday-Sept. 20, the party has morphed into so much more: a German-style brew-o-rama with Rocky Mountain beers, lamb cook-off, mechanical-bull-riding contest, free music and a cruiser bike parade, all held at the ski area base. Ride the gondola to the top (tickets are good for both days) and enjoy $5 Bloody Marys at the Oasis Sundeck Sunday afternoon. Event admission is free, but gondola tickets, beer tastings and luncheons have a fee.
Visit steamboat-chamber.com.
