NEW YORK — An organic mood is pervading Fashion Week, with a basket motif at Carolina Herrera and Zac Posen, metals at Carmen Marc Valvo and earthy colors at Donna Karan. Here are some highlights.
CAROLINA HERRERA
Rather than glitz and slam-bam glam, there was a serene, organic quality at Herrera’s show. Inspired by Japanese basketry, woven pieces — dresses, skirts and gowns in stone, caramel and amber — were works of art, appearing to be loomed by hand. In place of classic suitings, Herrera did shorts or cropped pants in copper and pale yellow, topped by clever, unmatched jackets or a sleeveless sweater — ritzy yet versatile. Of course, Herrera wouldn’t miss a fancy nighttime gig (hello, Oscars) and a vibrant basket-weave finale gown had front- row star stylist Rachel Zoe smiling.
ZAC POSEN
Late-night shows have been a Zac Posen staple for many seasons, but this time it was an early-bird special. On a round runway encircled by hot- pink chairs, the show seemed to look back on Posen’s roots; lightness and fun abounded. Animated models donned graphic lattice dresses, gowns and skirts. Sheer vinyl raincoats were tinted in green apple and strawberry glace — yum. A sculpted, tiger-print dress roared, and color blocks and cutouts gave garments an architectural flavor. As for the marabou feather jackets? Zac can’t help himself … he has a flair for drama, no matter what the time of day.
DONNA KARAN
Donna Karan’s peaceful show was a slice of heaven. The palette was serene — sky gray, crystal blue, storm, blush and one blast of fiery coral — and pieces fluttered down the runway — ethereal, graceful and seductive. Karan’s famous body- suits worked throughout, sometimes topped by easy jackets, artfully frayed or “crushed.” The seemingly haphazard chic was such a relief from being stiffly buttoned up. There was a python suit, and coral accessories, but most divine, the sheerest cloudlike dresses either skimmed or floated about the body. Ahhh, the incredible lightness of being … in a Donna Karan dress.
THAKOON
Ever since Michelle Obama gave this line a nod of approval, it’s hard to look at the collection and not wonder: Would she wear that? Answer: No, if we’re talking the ninja pants or georgette tidal dresses ruched in random directions, as if a sewing machine went mad. Maybe yes to the clever “armor” dresses with tweed or print cutouts layered over body-skimming sheaths. There also were layered, tank-upon-tank dresses, with straps pulled diagonally or wrapped around — fun, colorful … but not for you- know-who.
CARMEN MARC VALVO
Valvo took his runway show to new heights — literally — showing his line on JumboTron screens high above the crowds in Times Square. The theme was “Urban Jungle,” and there was a moody luster to his black, metallic and beaded gowns and cocktail dresses — sort of “Blade Runner” gone glam. A royal blue lame gown wrapped around one shoulder. Scads of black chains draped a dress (and a bathing suit). And a silver Harlow gown shimmered like a steel tower.
TRACY REESE
French impressionist Pierre Bonnard served as inspiration for this ruched, romantic collection. Shades are sweet: passion fruit, honeydew, blueberry, pear. And look after look — a dotted, draped frock with full skirt, a plaidish (it looked painted-on) skirt with black leather shell, macrame and lace shifts — perfect for a garden- party brunch. But those mushroom cup skirts — they aren’t doing anybody’s hips any favors, are they?
