A sampling of recent restaurant reviews by Denver Post critic Tucker Shaw.
AMERICAN
Beatrice & Woodsley
38 S. Broadway, 303-777-3505,
(Great) Small plates all under $20, but you’ll order a few. The dishes on what is perhaps Denver’s most creative menu usually score, with rare exceptions. Settle in for a couple of hours and order a succession of dishes; everything’s meant to be shared. But guard your Hair of the Frog cocktail (gin, chartreuse and soda) for yourself. Last reviewed December 2008.
Max Gill and Grill
1053 S. Gaylord St., 303-722-7456,
(Very Good) Appetizers $9-$14; mains $9-$25. Fish freaks and
meat heads come together at this surf-and-turf restaurant on Old
South Gaylord. One of Denver’s best lobster rolls, and a decent filet of beef.Last reviewed November 2008.
Root Down
1600 W. 33rd Ave., 303-993-4200,
(Very Good/Great) Plates $7-$22, with most around $9-$11. An eclectic menu of innovative, flavorful small dishes (many of which are vegetarian) drives this forward-thinking eatery. Last reviewed March 2009.
The Squeaky Bean
3301 Tejon St., 303-284-0053,
(Great) Sandwiches $7-$9; entrees $19-$22. Intelligent ingredient- sourcing, sophisticated cooking and a laid-back vibe give this LoHi locale something to squeak about. Bonus points for being open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Last reviewed September 2009.
Steakhouse Ten
3517 S. Elati St., Englewood, 303-789-0911,
(Very Good) Entrees $22-$34. Cozy, clubby little steakhouse gets the heat right every time: Rare is rare and medium is medium. Greek specialties round out the menu. Open for lunch, too. Last reviewed May 2009.
TAG
1441 Larimer St., 303-996-9985,
(Very Good) Small plates $6-$14; entrees $19-$29. Crowded and stylish, this new Larimer Square eatery features eclectic, Pacific-influenced cuisine, described by popular chef Troy Guard as “continental social food.” Last reviewed October 2009.
Twelve
2233 Larimer St., 303-293-0287, twelve
(Great/Exceptional) Entrees $22-$28. Twelve changes its menu monthly, so don’t get attached to a favorite dish. Instead, have your socks knocked off by chef Jeff Osaka’s brilliant technical skills and instinctive flavor-play. Last reviewed February 2009.
EUROPEAN
Brasserie Felix
3901 Tennyson St., 303-953-2401,
(Very good) Appetizers $5.95-$12.95; mains $14.95-$20.95. A very good example of the Americanized French Brasserie, with accessible and relevant fare, like steak frites, mussels and croque monsieurs. Small but serviceable wine list. Great sunny room looks even better at lunchtime. Last reviewed April 2009.
Colt & Gray
1553 Platte St., 303-477-1447,
(Very Good/Great) Bar snacks, $5; Small plates, $7-15; Main courses, $18-28. White tablecloths help elevate comfort food at this pub-inspired restaurant. Cocktails, smart bar snacks and a beautiful pork chop entree. Last reviewed November 2009.
Farro
8230 S. Holly St., 303-694-5432, farro
(Very Good) Almost nothing over $15. The southern suburbs are awash in restaurants, but precious few of them are any good. Enter Farro, at the corner of Holly Street and County Line Road, which serves homey, substantial fare with a casual-elegant twist. Good wine list, too. Last reviewed February 2009.
ASIAN
Taste of Thailand
504 E. Hampden Ave., Englewood, 303-762-9112
(Very Good) Nothing over $15. Every neighborhood has at least one Thai restaurant, but not every neighborhood has one as good as Englewood’s Taste of Thailand. Fresh, tasty dishes are assembled with a light hand, and spice is applied with precision. Lunch specials every day. Last reviewed March 2008.
MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN
Brewery Bar II
150 Kalamath St., 303-893-0971
(Very Good) Nothing over $10. Part sports bar, part dive, all soul, the Brewery Bar II smothers most of its excellent combination plates in some of Denver’s tastiest green chile. Brewery Bar II won’t win awards for being fancy, but it will win hearts for being consistent, friendly and cool. Last reviewed December 2006.
Las Cazuelas
6757 W. Mississippi Ave., Lakewood, 303-935-2043
(Very Good) Nothing over $10. This family-friendly neighborhood Mexican restaurant features a greatest-hits menu of Mexican-restaurant favorites: rellenos, carnitas, enchiladas and tamales, plus an addictive, fresh-tasting, pork-laden green chile. Brisk takeout business, too. Last reviewed February 2007.
CARIBBEAN
Eight Rivers Lodo
1550 Blake St., 303-623-3422,
(Very Good) Appetizers $7-$13; mains $15-$19. Denver’s very best rum list anchors this downtown homage to Jamaican cuisine. Think jerk chicken, jerk pork, jerk steak and a beautifully rich-spicy oxtail stew. Last reviewed December 2008.
PIZZA
McKinners Pizza Bar
2389 W. Main St., Littleton, 303-798-8500,
(Very Good) Pizzas $9.25 and up; salads $6.25-$9. Downtown Littleton is one of the area’s most pleasant town strips, studded with boutiques and wine shops and, happily, McKinners, a favorite watering hole, pizza joint and gathering place. Last reviewed March 2009.
Our star system:
: Exceptional
: Great
: Very good
: Good
