Many are the middling Middle Eastern restaurants in Denver, palaces of subpar shawarma and flavorless falafel. So, when a contender comes along that’s better than average (or in the case of Phoenician Kabob, much better than average), a dining critic’s heart goes all aflutter.
It’s been a year and change since my first visit to Phoenician Kabob, and I still remember the occasion vividly. It was a sunny day, the kind of day that shows off East Colfax Avenue at its rock ‘n’ roll best — and its missing-hubcaps worst.
Lunchtime was nigh, and, faced with a growling stomach, a low gas tank and only a few bills in my pocket, I had to choose from the dozens of storefront eateries along this storied strip. Would I visit Yoisho for gyoza dumplings? Would I grab a hot dog at Steve’s Snappin’? Would I score some shiro wot at Habesha?
I chose Phoenician Kabob.
And as it turned out, I chose well. After an energetic, herby-sharp plate of fattoush (chopped tomato, cucumber, parsley, fresh and dried herbs, warm pita croutons in a sharp, lemony dressing) and a pita stuffed with crispy-soft falafels and garlicky hummus, and a wedge of baklava (more on this later), I paid about $12 and left the joint happy and eager to return.
That lunch, and a subsequent series of lunches and dinners at Phoenician, have revealed it to be, if not the cheapest of our city’s Middle Eastern restaurants, an excellent value nonetheless.
The menu accounts for most of the greatest hits of American-Middle Eastern foodstuffs, from marinated kebobs (chicken, beef or lamb, each beautifully flavored, the lamb particularly so) to shawarma to falafel and tabbouleh and so forth.
Score a plate of Manakeish Bizzatar, a savory Lebanese pastry with herbs and sesame seeds, and sip a beer while you decide among them.
After your meal, resist the urge to say no to dessert and call for a slice of baklava, to eat on-site or take home for reheating. “That is the best baklava I’ve ever had,” said one office-mate after she tried one of the wedges I’d brought in. Light and airy and honey-sweet (and not at all cloying), sprinkled with pistachios and gently warmed, the baklava is indeed a standout. Most baklavas are best ignored; Phoenician Kabob’s version is best doubled up on. Save room.
My greatest disappointment at Phoenician Kabob was the pita bread, which on many of my visits was markedly un-fresh — gummy and wan and hard to tear apart. Pita still warm from the baking oven is one of the greatest simple pleasures on the planet; if only I’d experienced it at Phoenician Kabob.
Service at Phoenician Kabob reflects the time of day you visit and the business of the room. On packed weekend nights, it can be slow and confused — a check is delivered before the entrees, a glass of wine is cleared while still full, a waitress starts the evening with a surly attitude. But come at lunchtime or at off-hours, and you’ll be carefully and efficiently cared for.
If you have a large group (say, an office party or some such), you’d have a hard time finding a better place to take them than this open, airy room with plenty of tables and chairs.
Bonus for families: Kids will love the food here. The flavors are accessible and delicious, and the room is totally kid-friendly.
Bonus for barflies looking for a new scene: Saturday nights, Phoenician Kabob features belly dancing to go with its drink specials.
A real East Colfax gem.
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PHOENICIAN KABOB
Lebanese, Middle Eastern 5709 E. Colfax Ave., 303-355-7213,
** (Very Good)
Atmosphere: Big, roomy space with wide windows facing Colfax; at night, feels clubby and intimate.
Service: Better at slower hours
Wine: Small wine list includes Lebanese wine.
Plates: Entrees $9.95-$15.95; lunch specials $7.95
Hours: Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.-10p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Details: Street parking. Wheelchair accessible. Cocktail specials. Belly dancing on Saturdays.
Four visits
Our star system: ****: Exceptional ***: Great **: Very Good *: Good
