Thank goodness, the popularity of low-carb diets has waned.
During the height of that diet craze, diners had to specifically request that bread be brought to their table. And at many establishments, the breadbasket disappeared altogether.
For lovers of this ancient culinary delight, these were dark days, indeed.
But bread has made a strong comeback, and many restaurants are even making it a signature part of their offerings.
Since bread comes in limitless shapes, styles and consistencies, there are few criteria for what sets apart the best, other than the two key F’s — freshness and flavor.
But, for those of us who take the bread basket as seriously as the rest of the meal, here’s a sampling of Denver restaurants that serve great bread.
1. Brasserie Felix
A French restaurant without good bread is like a salad without a suitable dressing. Fortunately, there is nothing to worry about on that front at this cozy, neighborhood spot. It obtains its wonderfully authentic baguettes from Trompeau Bakery, 1729 E. Evans Ave., which also supplies such restaurants as Parisi, Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. and Locando del Borgo. 3901 Tennyson St., 303-953-2401,
2. Oceanaire Seafood Room
To accompany the retro eatery’s high-end seafood offerings, executive chef Matt Mine wanted a traditional San Francisco-style sourdough boule (ball). He turned to City Bakery, 5454 Washington St., which specially created a tangy bread it calls “ocean sour.” The 10-year-old bakery also provides bread to several other top restaurants, including Rioja, Elway’s and Bistro Vendome. 1400 Arapahoe St., 303-991-2277,
3. Ship Tavern
The big, voluptuous dinner rolls, which have long been a staple here, are worth a trip on their own. Each of the muffin-shaped rolls has two sourdough and two darker, beer-and-onion-flavored sections. “I just recently started purchasing a Guinness-type extract, which has increased the flavor a little bit,” said executive pastry chef James Gallo. “A very costly product but very well worth it.” Brown Palace Hotel, 321 17th St., 303-297-3111,
4. Strings
Jaime Alvarez has overseen the extensive baking needs of this longtime Uptown destination for 16 to 17 years, ensuring a rare consistency in taste and quality. There is much to savor among the breads that the restaurant serves, but it’s hard to top Strings’ classic bread sticks, which are waiting on the table as diners are seated. Alvarez bakes 800 to 1,000 of them every other day. 1700 Humboldt St., 303-831-7310,
5. Pints Pub
This English-style pub is best known for its in-house brews and world-class selection of single-malt whiskeys, but its sesame-seed-topped, crusty rolls from Vie de France are another, perhaps less-appreciated attraction. Besides serving them with fish and chips and entrees, it uses them to envelop its Wimpy burgers instead of conventional buns, which owner Scott Diamond politely dismisses as “insipid.” 221 W. 13th Ave., 303-534-7543,
6. Little India Restaurant and Bar
Bread is an integral part of Indian cuisine, and this restaurant’s 11 fresh, made-to-order creations are among the best in town. One favorite is the simple but tasty alu naan, which is stuffed with mashed potatoes and peas. Owner Simeran Baidwan said the secret is Little India’s charcoal- fired clay ovens. 330 E. Sixth Ave (one of three locations), 303-871-9777,
7. Racines
The small, flavorful dinner rolls that this ever-popular, midpriced restaurant serves primarily with its salads are a modest yet notable part of its wide- ranging offerings. It procures the rolls from Vie de France, which has six baking facilities across the country, including one in Denver. It supplies dozens of area restaurants of all sizes with a spectrum of baked goods. 650 Sherman St., 303-595-0418,
8. Cucina Colore
Diners at this Cherry Creek North anchor can expect a basket filled with a classic pairing of hard and soft Italian breads: ciabatta and foccacia. According to executive chef Luis Caho, it purchases the former from Udi’s Artisan Bakery in Louisville. But Cucina Colore’s savory foccacia is baked daily in-house using the restaurant’s distinctive mix of herbs and spices. 3041 E. Third Ave., 303-393-6917,
Kyle MacMillan: 303-954-1675 or kmacmillan@denverpost.com
