Nestled in the Roaring Fork Valley, Snowmass is famous for being family-friendly and slightly less fussy than its glitzier neighbor and ski partner, Aspen. With the most vertical to be had in the country (we’re talking about a 4,406-foot drop) and 3,132 acres of well-varied terrain to explore, the ski area is nothing short of spectacular, but a wealth of other outdoor activities and plenty of cultural offerings help make it a destination for all. Kyle Wagner
Shuttle, shuttle everywhere
This is how Snowmass rolls: They will get you where you need to go, usually for free. Most of the hotels will pick you up from the Aspen airport, and they often have around- town valets too. And then there’s the free Village Shuttle running eight routes around the Mall and Snowmass Village from 6:35 a.m. to 11:20 p.m. daily (and later upon request in some sections); you rarely wait more then 10-15 minutes for one. In addition, there are free skier shuttles from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. around the four ski areas — Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk Mountain and Snowmass.
Don’t want to make the drive from Denver? Check out the Gray Line shuttle from Denver International Airport to Snowmass or Aspen, which costs $100 each way and takes four to five hours. It’s the most comfortable, mindless way to get there imaginable (877-277-3690, ).
Rooms, view for more than two
If you want to make families feel welcome at a ski area, you need to work it from the start. That’s where Snowmass has it all over many ski areas, with its plethora of lodging options that feature kitchens, enormous pools and plenty of space. Check out places like the Villas at the Snowmass Club (0160 Snowmass Club Circle, 800-837-4255, ), with their fully stocked kitchens and tie-in to one of the best sets of pools in the state, or the Viceroy (130 Wood Road, 888-622-4567, ), a lovely blend of hotel/condo with a great restaurant, Eight K. And right next to the slopes in the Base Village: Capitol Peak Lodge and Hayden Lodge (877-682-7736, ) are just-built, spacious ski-in/ski-out condos with hot tubs and outdoor heated pools and underground parking.
A real play place for kids
If your kids can’t find something fun to do in 25,000 square feet at the Treehouse Kids Adventure Center in Snowmass Village, they aren’t really kids. From ages 8 weeks and up, your young ‘un is welcome to explore the elaborate rooms, which are divided by age-appropriate activities and themes and run by people who truly enjoy working and playing with kids. For the older set, there are movie nights and Guitar Hero-pizza parties. Prices are reasonable, and they will help arrange for ski/snowboard lessons and meals for an extra charge (intersection of Fanny Hill lifts, Base Village, 970-923-8733, ).
Up in the air, indeed
You might think of hot air ballooning as only a fair-weather friend, but you’d be wrong. You can head out year-round in the valley with the only ones that offer it through the winter (just not in a blizzard), the Above It All Balloon Co. At sunrise each morning at the Snowmass Recreation Center and Rodeo parking lot, Above It All launches to between 1,000 and 2,500 feet, for breathtaking panoramic views. Ages 6 and up can go, and the balloons can accommodate up to 12 at a time. Rates are $245 per adult and $175 for ages 6-14 (970-963-6148, ).
A salad bar! And a great steak . . .
It’s so old-school, who knew? The Village Steakhouse above the lobby of the Wildwood Lodge not only still sets up a full-service salad bar nightly, complete with two homemade soups, six dressings and 40-odd other fresh items, but it also offers the whole shebang by itself ($18), or it’s included with one of the best 14-ounce rib-eyes ($32) around. This slab of succulent steakness comes char-edged, sided by a ramekin of tangy-rich bearnaise sauce. With 30 wines under $30, this place is a sweet ski-area deal, and it’s the ideal way to reload after a day on the slopes (40 Elbert Lane, 970-923-8289, ).
The sweet life just got sweeter
Fans of the original The Sweet Life in Telluride will cheer at this, another location of the old-fashioned ice cream shop, diner and candy store, located in the heart of the Village. The milkshakes are killer, the burgers and BLTs are terrific versions of the classics, and the deep-fried Oreos are sick — and we mean that in a good way. Kids go gaga the second they walk in the door (69 Wood Road, 970-923-9903, ).
The Cirque, baby
Everyone knows about the boss blues on the Big Burn, but that gets skied out pretty quickly and early. If you have the chops — and we’re talking at least upper-intermediate here — check out the Cirque’s backcountry, with its wicked cliff drops, deep stashes and steep trees. It takes about a 15-minute hike off the Cirque Poma lift, but the reward is no people and plenty of powder.
That’s Italian . . . really
Il Poggio Ristorante is northern Italian all the way, and that means garlicky shrimp dishes, elaborate sauces and slow-braised meats that fall off the bones. Think hearty fare that goes down easy on a cold winter’s night, served in a warm, inviting space (try to get one of the comfy booths). The service is savvy and gracious, and the wine list is fairly priced. The pizzetta with Cambozola cheese is a favorite (57 Elbert Lane, 970-923-4292).
We’ll drink to that
In a ski area known for its condos with kitchens, it’s helpful that there’s also a place to get liquor quick and for reasonable prices. Daly Bottle Shop has an extensive (some 400- plus bottles) roster of wines from around the globe, and it offers case discounts. The store-within-a- store is Grain, which sells snacks like gourmet cheese that just happen to go well with wine. Both are open until 10 p.m. (215 Main Level, Snowmass Village, 970-923-4100).
Make Nordic tracks
The Aspen/Snowmass Nordic Trail System is one of the best in the country, linking Aspen and Snowmass Village. That means you can spend lots of time wending your way through this gorgeous alpine environment on miles of trails, some of which follow the old Denver and Rio Grande Railroad bed along the Roaring Fork River, some of which go along nature preserves or golf courses. The bottom line is that you can get as lost or found as you’d like. Visit the Snowmass Cross Country Center at one end of the trail to pick up rentals and trail maps (239 Snowmass Village Circle, 970-923-3148, as ).
Kyle Wagner: 303-954-1599 or travel@denverpost.com
