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In a taste test of store-bought kimchi, Sunja's (left) was viewed as a watered-down version for kimchi novices. Tobagi (right) had large pieces of cabbage and radish complemented with a little apple and pear for sweetness but its ingredients include MSG. Illustrates FOOD-KIMCHI (category d), by Jane Black (c) 2010, The Washington Post. Moved Monday, Jan. 25, 2010. (MUST CREDIT: Washington Post)
In a taste test of store-bought kimchi, Sunja's (left) was viewed as a watered-down version for kimchi novices. Tobagi (right) had large pieces of cabbage and radish complemented with a little apple and pear for sweetness but its ingredients include MSG. Illustrates FOOD-KIMCHI (category d), by Jane Black (c) 2010, The Washington Post. Moved Monday, Jan. 25, 2010. (MUST CREDIT: Washington Post)
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Getting your player ready...

Not yet ready to make your own kimchi? The Washington Post Food section tasted prepared varieties and lists them here in order of appreciation:

1. Tobagi (fresh). Our top pick. Bright red in color, fiery and pungent with garlic, it has a heavy hit of fishiness on the finish. The cabbage is cut into large strips that stay crunchy. Scallions add contrast and a nice little bite. Now this is kimchi. 16 ounces, $4.49; available at the Korean-American Asian supermarket chain H Mart (2751 S. Parker Road, Aurora, 303-745-4592).

2. Tobagi (jarred). A respectable store-bought variety. Large pieces of cabbage and radish are complemented with a little apple and pear for sweetness. An attractive red color; the heat is tempered and evenly dispersed but note: The ingredients include MSG. The wide-mouth jar is also a plus. 16 ounces, $3.49; available at H Mart stores and online at .

3. Sunja’s. A watered-down version for kimchi novices. The pros: The vegetables have an appealing crunch and would make a great addition to a hot dog or tacos. The cons: Both the mild white and medium spicy cabbage we tried are vegetarian- friendly, but without any salted fish they lacked that addictive oomph. 16 ounces, $3.50; available at Whole Foods Markets.

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