When you think about the world’s great train journeys, from the Orient Express to the Trans- Siberian Railway, it’s easy to get swept away in the romance of it all.
The restaurant car with its jingling teacups and white-linen formality. The sleeper cabins with their shaded windows and cinematic, panoramic views. The bar car with its international conversation, scotch bottles and crystal glasses.
In a world of budget airlines, long-distance trains could be viewed as an anachronistic indulgence. But in Australia, locals see them as a necessity — a comfortable and stylish way of getting to know the impossibly difficult interior of their massive country.
It won’t be long before the Indian Pacific’s name is used in the same sentence as the Trans-Siberian Railway by international rail enthusiasts. Australia’s Great Southern Rail has done admirable restorative work on a sprawling system over the past decade, and the crown jewel of that effort is the Indian Pacific, the coast-to-coast train that turns 40 this year.
The Indian Pacific runs from Perth in the west (on the Indian Ocean) to Sydney in the east (on the Pacific). It’s a brilliant three-day journey that showcases all that Australia has to offer. Covering more than 4,350 kilometers, the effortless train trip is an exquisite showcase of Australian hospitality — not to mention an elegant viewing platform for the mighty Outback.
Putting the Indian Pacific in quantitative perspective is simple. Its breadth is equal to more than 2,700 miles — the driving distance between Miami’s Ocean Drive and Los Angeles’ Pacific Coast Highway. That’s a little less than half of the Trans-Siberian Railway’s 9,259-kilometer, eight-day journey.
Talking about the trek qualitatively, on the other hand, is a mammoth task. You really do see everything from your jumbo window, from the scenic Blue Mountains to the arid Outback, from the humid coastlines to the historical mining towns that dot the landscape like spots on a kangaroo’s tail.
Like North America, Australia is an enormous continent most easily traversed by plane. But if you want to see the terrain between the port cities — and meet some lovely people while you’re at it — train travel is the way to go.
Riding the Indian Pacific from Sydney to Perth in November — late spring in Australia — I was treated to stunning seasonal weather. It was temperate on the coasts and fiery in the middle. I remember raising my glass to toast many aspects of the journey along the way — from kangaroo sightings to new friends, from quiet afternoons spent with my book to the train’s uncannily hot shower water and frigid air conditioner.
Here are some of the many highlights, taken straight from my journal and blog.
Day One
The train leaves at 2:55 p.m. sharp. Plenty of staff are available at Sydney’s Central Station to answer the many questions that are inherent in such a trip. Smaller bags come into your compartment; larger cargo is checked. After people settle in and figure out the fold-out, stainless- steel toilets, everyone filters through the bar for a glass of wine and an informal meet and greet.
Coming out of Sydney and into the Blue Mountains in the late afternoon is something every visitor to Australia should experience. The light is just right for the kind of pastoral shots to make your back-at-home friends jealous. It seems as if everything is green.
Dinner that evening is jovial, friendly. Everybody’s excited to be on the train. This is a once-in-a-lifetime event, a reason for celebration. One couple is celebrating 50 years together. Another is on their honeymoon. First Class patrons eat in the elegant Queen Adelaide Restaurant, a formal-but-friendly car split into four-top booths. Second and Third Class services are dished out in a diner a few cars down.
While the terrain is stunning, the track here is rough. That first night of sleep is the toughest one. Sleeping pills are a necessity, as the jolts and waves of the track make for something of a shaky night — the only one of the three-night journey.
Day 2
Early risers have the option of a brief continental breakfast and a 6:40 a.m. tour of Broken Hill, a charming silver mining town. The train-organized bus tour is quick and superficial, but it’s perfect for the “gray nomads” — an Aussie term for the retired travelers who wander the countryside.
More adventurous travelers set off on their own for a 90-minute walking tour of the modest-sized town, which has become something of an artist’s community over the years.
Then it’s back on the train for breakfast, conversation, a nap and lunch. At this point, you’re in the world-famous Outback.
What’s it look like? It’s a wheat-and-sage-colored collage of scrub. Ground cover stretches forever, and the horizon is intimidating and expansive. Giant birds are seen all over the powder-blue skies, and the wedge-tailed eagle — the Indian Pacific’s symbol — calls this rugged land home.
Sandstone-colored dirt ties everything together, from the occasional rock to a water-starved tree. The bleak environs make kangaroo-spotting much easier than it would be were you hurtling through dense forests.
That afternoon, the train stops in Adelaide for an hour-long tour of the southern city of 1 million-plus people. Again, the undesirable bus tour should be bypassed for a taxi into the central business district, which buzzes with parks, art and shopping. Just be back by 6:40 p.m., when the train departs north and then west.
Dinner is louder and more comfortable this time, with more familiarity and free-flowing wine. Sleep comes easier this night, too.
Day 3
Ready for a big train day? We’re tackling the Nullarbor Plain, the world’s largest single piece of limestone at about 200,000 square kilometers. The Nullarbor is home to the world’s longest stretch of arrow- straight railroad track — a 478-kilometer stretch that gives you a unique perspective of the globe.
The rumor about the Nullarbor (Latin for “no trees”) is that if you look at it just right, you’ll see the actual curvature of the Earth. And there are multiple times when you’re looking out from your train perch and you swear you see the bowed Earth, from the left to the right.
A short, suffocatingly hot stop in Cook, population 5, gives you the chance to stretch your legs and meet the family (yep, singular) that lives and operates a shop/museum there. And after dinner, there’s a lengthier stop in Kalgoorlie, a large mining town and home to many still-active brothels.
The Kalgoorlie train station is right in the middle of town, so those who opt out of the bus tour can easily walk to a nearby steakhouse or bar for a drink or snack. The beer is warm, the nightlife is hot — and given the time on the clock, 7:10-10:40 p.m. in Kalgoorlie, you’ll have a chance to meet some kind locals.
The track is straight and chill for your final overnight into Perth.
Day 4
After one last breakfast, it’s time to pack up. You’re in sprawling Perth as you’re finishing your eggs, and the smiling, sunny city — with beaches all around and exciting Fremantle to the south — is ready to welcome you back to regular, off-track life.
A ride on the Indian Pacific really is the experience of a lifetime, and taking the time to stretch out, sit back and let it ride pays off. As opposed to a cramped airplane seat for five hours, the three days you’ll spend on the train covering the same distance make for an experience that’s hard to shake.
Ricardo Baca: 303-954-1394 or rbaca@denverpost.com; Twitter@RVRB
Other Australian rail journeys
The Indian Pacific is the longest of Australia’s rail journeys, covering 4,352 kilometers. But there are a couple of other routes that will help you get where you’re going in style and comfort.
The Ghan
Itinerary: From south to north, this train travels from Adelaide to Alice Springs and Darwin. Kilometers: 2,979. Time: Two nights. Highlights: Alice Springs is uniquely Australian — and it’s also the gateway to Uluru, a.k.a. Ayers Rock, the giant sandstone formation that appears to change color with the sun’s position and is a symbol of national pride for Aussies.
The Overland
Itinerary: From east to west, this train travels from Melbourne to Adelaide. Kilometers: 828. Time: One day. Highlights: You’ll see many Australian towns along the way in this capital-to-capital trek, including Murray Bridge, Nhill, Dimboola, Horsham, Geelong and others. These towns are so quintessentially Australian that you’ll feel like an Aussie just saying their names out loud.
Indian Pacific Insider’s Guide
What’s the right service level?
Train travel can be prohibitively expensive, but the Indian Pacific also can be considerably cheaper than making the Sydney-Perth flight — if you’re willing to rough it.
That said, the Indian Pacific can also be an elite and gourmet affair, if you pay the right fare.
On the cheap: Backpackers on a budget can tolerate the discomfort of the recliner “daynighter” seats for the price tag, $142 with a student ID/hostel membership card. (It’s $313 without a card.) Check for Hostelling International membership information. No food is included in the price, but there’s a diner car with simple fare and modest beer/wine offerings.
In the red: The Great Southern Rail’s Second Class option is the red service sleeper cabin. Rates are $973 ($365 for children), which gets you a modest sleeping cabin with shared bathrooms down the hall. Red service passengers, like those in the daynighter seats, have access to the no-frills diner car — an á la carte dining option for those not self-catering.
Going gold: Gold service level is first class, $527 for kids and $2,008 for everybody else. It’s an indulgent treat with two beds per cabin, which fold up to create a comfortable sofa during the day. It includes all meals, which are surprisingly exquisite in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant car. You also have access to the Outback Explorer Lounge, an expansive bar car that takes credit cards and is the tour-booking hub.
How-tos for the Indian Pacific
Some things about train travel are universal: Bring a good book. Don’t forget local currency. Sleeping pills/aids are a great idea. But here are some tips specific to the Indian Pacific, especially in the Sydney-Perth direction.
The night before: The train takes off from Sydney’s Central Station, a simple bus ride from Sydney Harbour — home to the bay bridge, opera house and primary tourist district. You might choose to stay closer to the station the night before your trek for ease and comfort — actually in the station. Take advantage of the one-of-a-kind Railway Square hostel, adorably situated in train cars located on the former platform zero, right off the track the Indian Pacific leaves from. The Railway Square YHA has 215 rooms, some at the main building across the street.
Ditch the tours: The train-sanctioned tours of Broken Hill, Adelaide and Kalgoorlie, which cost extra regardless of what class you’re traveling, are mildly informative, oddly superficial and unfortunately broad. The bus tours are good for the elderly, but if you still get around OK and have an adventurous spirit, you should lead yourself and save a few bucks. With a minimal amount of preboarding research, you can make the most of your time in fascinating remote areas of Australia.
Pack the Hunter Valley’s best: The gold service bar on the train is incredibly well stocked with an impressive selection of beer and lesser-so wine. That said, you’ll save a good chunk of change if you pack your own bottles of Hunter Valley zinfandels for leisurely consumption during the sunny afternoons and late evenings. Do purchase dinnertime drinks from the train.
Bring your wheels: If you’re traveling with a car, you can bring it along for the ride. It’ll cost you extra, sure, but as everybody else clamors for a rental on the other end of the journey, you can be on the road upon arrival behind a familiar set of wheels.
Cash or credit: The diner and bar carts do take credit cards, but having a solid supply of Australian dollars is still a good idea. Cash can save you time while booking a tour and allow you to grab a kitschy Nullarbor souvenir during the train’s one-hour stop in the incredibly remote village of Cook.
Ricardo Baca
This article has been corrected in this online archive. Originally, due to a reporting error, the one-way prices for the Indian Pacific train from Sydney to Perth were incorrect.
