Come Sunday, there’ll be a whole lot of hams being sliced up for the big Easter feast. I do enjoy a nice ham — not too smoky for me, but porky and salty and rich.
But as far as I’m concerned, ham is nothing without the mustard. And while the supermarket shelves are stuffed solid with different colors, textures and brands of mustard, from across the price-point spectrum, a meal as special as Easter calls for the homemade stuff.
Besides, preparing a pre-cooked ham is about as easy as it gets (just stick it in the oven until it’s warm), so you’ll have time to make your own mustard. Do it a day or two before the dinner so that it has a chance to “settle” in the fridge. (Oh, and pull it out a couple of hours before you eat; as with ketchup, the flavor is far better at room temperature.)
This recipe, for Red Wine Mustard, is an elegant upgrade from the yellow squeeze bottle, and very easy to make. It’s from James Peterson’s omnibus, “Sauces.” Find mustard seeds at a local spice dealer such as Savory Spice.
Red Wine Mustard
Adapted from “Sauces,” by James Peterson (Wiley). Makes 2 cups.
Ingredients
4 ounces black mustard seeds (weigh at the spice dealer, or measure out about 1/2-
2/3 cup)
3/4 cup red wine
3/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Chopped herbs (thyme, marjoram, tarragon) to taste (if using dry herbs, use less than you think you’ll need, and add to taste)
Directions
Combine all ingredients in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight. Puree the mixture in a blender until it attains the desired thickness and texture.
Store refrigerated in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. (This mustard sometimes tastes bitter when first made, but the bitterness disappears after a few hours.)
