You could think of Leadville as a crusty old king with a long white beard, sitting on a throne high above everybody else, oblivious to the successes of the youngsters — Vail, Frisco, Beaver Creek, etc. — thriving beneath him.
There are other ways of looking at the city, though. One of them: Leadville is like Betty White, somewhat forgotten by passing generations, then, suddenly, embraced by people in their 20s who are desperate for “character.”
Let’s go with the Betty White interpretation.
In this vein, consider three downtown restaurants in Leadville.
There is the Golden Burro Cafe and Lounge, a neon-bright, irony-free diner, a place where old-timers sit and drink coffee and dig into gigantic plates of eggs and pancakes (overheard on a recent morning: “Where is that new sheepherder?”). The Golden Burro, established in 1938, is the kind of place the younger people find “authentic” because it is.
At Provin’ Grounds, a hippie-happy joint, you will find local art on the walls, alt-country coming through the speakers, homemade pastries and fancy coffee drinks. This is where the Betty White idolaters spend their mornings. For good reason: It’s got good mojo.
So does Tennessee Pass Cafe, a proper restaurant like the Golden Burro, only this one serves tapas and stir-fries and mahi-mahi tacos instead of hot open-faced sandwiches and breaded pork cutlets.
These places provide a sense of where Leadville has been and where, maybe, it’s headed. Check out all three.
THE GOLDEN BURRO CAFE AND LOUNGE
American. 710 Harrison Ave., Leadville, 719-486-1239, . Breakfast through dinner daily.
PROVIN’ GROUNDS
Coffee shop. 508 Harrison Ave., Leadville, 719-486-0797. Open morning into the early evening every day.
TENNESSEE PASS CAFE
American. 222 Harrison Ave., Leadville, 719-486-8101, . Lunch through dinner daily.
