Restaurants are listed alphabetically.
AMERICAN
Beatrice & Woodsley
38 S. Broadway, 303-777-3505,
(Great) Small plates all under $20, but you’ll order a few. The dishes on what is perhaps Denver’s most creative menu usually score, with rare exceptions. Settle in for a couple of hours and order a succession of dishes; everything’s meant to be shared. But guard your Hair of the Frog cocktail (gin, chartreuse and soda) for yourself. Last reviewed December 2008.
Fruition
1313 E. Sixth Ave., 303-831-1962
(Great/Exceptional) Starters $7-$12; entrees $19-$24. In theory, Fruition serves comfort food. In practice, it serves some of the area’s most exquisitely crafted, meticulously detailed dishes, like rich pasta carbonara with house-made cavatelli and perfectly braised pork belly, and crisp-skinned roasted duck breast over delicate carnaroli risotto. Affordable wine list, excellent vanilla pudding, pleasant and hospitable service. Reservations highly recommended. Last reviewed March 2007.
Root Down
1600 W. 33rd Ave., 303-993-4200,
(Very Good/Great) Plates $7-$22, with most around $9-$11. An eclectic menu of innovative, flavorful small dishes (many of which are vegetarian) drives this forward-thinking eatery and watering hole, fashioned from a reclaimed garage. Last reviewed March 2009.
Twelve
2233 Larimer St., 303-293-0287,
(Great/Exceptional) Entrees $22-$28. Wedged into a tiny storefront in the northern reaches of LoDo, this newcomer changes its menu monthly – 12 times a year. So don’t get attached to a favorite dish. Instead, have your socks knocked off by chef Jeff Osaka’s brilliant technical skills and instinctive flavor-play. Last reviewed February 2009.
EUROPEAN
Bistro One
1294 S. Broadway, 720-974-0602,
(Very Good) Appetizers $5-$9; mains $14-$22. Smart cocktails start supper at this contemporary neighborhood bistro, where standard bistro fare (steak frites) shares menu space with more innovative dishes. Clever cocktails and a small, user-friendly wine list round out the experience. Last reviewed December 2008.
Bistro Vendôme
1420 Larimer St., 303-825-3232,
(Great) Appetizers $6-$16; main courses $15-$23. Vendôme, which boasts one of downtown Denver’s loveliest patios, also serves some of Denver’s most pleasant French cuisine. The savory herb-roasted chicken and delicate pan-roasted veal are standouts on the menu. which also includes foie gras pate and escargots. Manageable all-French wine list and popular brunch. Last reviewed July 2007.
Farro
8230 S. Holly St., 303-694-5432,
(Very Good) Almost nothing over $15. The southern suburbs are awash in restaurants, but precious few of them are any good. Enter Farro, at the corner of Holly Street and County Line Road, which serves homey, substantial fare with a casual-elegant twist. Good wine list, too. Last reviewed February 2009.
Indulge French Bistro
4140 W. 38th Ave., 303-433-7400,
(Very good/Great) Appetizers $6.50-16. Entrees $16-$28. This small, hospitably operated bistro in North Denver changes its menu frequently, but you can always count on a well-executed steak frites, an inexpensive glass of house wine, and a cheery welcome. Tip for seasonal eaters: Order seafood; it’s almost always nicely prepared here. Last reviewed May 2009.
Zamparelli’s Italian Bistro
2770 Arapahoe Road, Lafayette, 303-664-1275
(Very Good) Pastas $7-$15; salads $4-$9; pizzas (12-inch) $9-$14 and up. Lafayette is lucky to have Zamparelli’s in the neighborhood; it serves just the kind of casual but well-produced Italian cuisine that merits once-a-week visits. Crowd pleasers like pasta Bolognese and chicken marsala share menu space with brick-oven pizzas, some of the best in the northern ‘burbs. Bring your dog and hang on the patio out front. Last reviewed August 2007.
ASIAN
Taste of Thailand
504 E. Hampden Ave, Englewood, 303-762-9112
(Very Good) Nothing over $15. Every neighborhood has at least one Thai restaurant, but not every neighborhood has one as good as Englewood’s Taste of Thailand. Fresh, tasty dishes are assembled with a light hand, and spice is applied with precision. Lunch specials every day, perfect for Swedish Medical Center employees across the street. Last reviewed March 2008.
US Thai Cafe
5228 W. 25th Ave., Edgewater, 303-233-3345
(Very Good/Great) Appetizers $3.95-$5.95; entrees $7.50-$13.95. Curries stand out on the menu at US Thai, especially the evocative, complex green curry – smoky but smooth, soft but sharp, spicy but soothing, entirely irresistible. Get it with a green papaya salad and Thai iced tea. Kids love this place. Last reviewed December 2006.
MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN
Las Cazuelas
6757 W. Mississippi Ave., Lakewood, 303-935-2043
(Very Good) Nothing over $10. This family-friendly neighborhood Mexican restaurant features a greatest-hits menu of Mexican-restaurant favorites: rellenos, carnitas, enchiladas and tamales, plus an addictive, fresh-tasting, pork-laden green chile. Brisk takeout business, too. Last reviewed February 2007.
CARIBBEAN
Eight Rivers Lodo
1550 Blake St., 303-623-3422, 8rivers
(Very Good) Appetizers $7-$13; mains $15-$19. Denver’s very best rum list anchors this downtown homage to Jamaican cuisine. Think jerk chicken, jerk pork, jerk steak and a beautifully rich-spicy oxtail stew. Happy hour on weekdays. Last reviewed December 2008.
LATIN
Limon
1618 E. 17th Ave., 303-322-0898,
(Very Good/Great) Entrees mostly under $20. Set on a hopping strip of East 17th Avenue, Limon serves innovative, contemporary Peruvian food and classic, refreshing cocktails, most notably traditional pisco sours. Come at happy hour for the best deals or later for a quieter dinner. Last reviewed February 2008.
PIZZA
Virgilio’s
7986 W. Alameda Ave., Lakewood, 303-985-2777
(Very Good) Pizzas (14- or 18-inch) $8.99-$19.49; appetizers and sides $1.99-$8.99. Don’t fill up on garlic knots, because you’ll need room for pizza. Crusts are buttery, salty and nicely cooked. Toppings are straightforward and simple, particularly the Mama’s Favorite (shaved sausage, red onion, garlic). Gluten-free menu too. Last reviewed April 2006.
Our star system:
: Exceptional
: Great
: Very good
: Good
