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$9.98 per 22-ounce bottle

Purists might want to skip this one, but pumpkin ales and lagers are becoming a fall staple, and the “other” Portland’s Shipyard has a winner with its Smashed Pumpkin, from the brewer’s Pugsley’s Signature Series. It’s a clear copper pour with a frothy light-tan head and a nose that’s malty and not quite as spicy as some other pumpkin brews. Nutmeg, allspice and cinnamon are light but noticeable. On the palate, it’s surprisingly balanced, with Light Munich malt upfront, followed by the pumpkin flavor and spices, and finishing with Hallertau and Willamette hops. The creamy mouthfeel is a plus too. Enjoy it with hearty seasonal dishes such as beef stew or, naturally, pumpkin pie (or in lieu of same). Alcohol by volume of 9 percent lends credence to the “Smashed” of the name, so a single bomber is plenty. Shipyard Brewing Co., Portland, Maine;

Marcus Chamberland; mchamberland@denverpost.com

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