Maybe it’s our grim economy, maybe it’s that winter’s here, maybe it’s comforting to think that I’m eating what the rest of the world eats — but lately I’ve enjoyed nothing as much as a bowl of mashed lentils.
Dal, which is a kind of lentil porridge, is a staple of India and the countries that surround it. If you want lentils made the French way, slowly simmered so they keep their shape and integrity, then you should use the high-priced Lentils de Puys. But if you want a hearty Indian-style lentil mash, use inexpensive red or yellow lentils, which naturally split and disintegrate as they cook.
The rib-sticking starch-on-starch combination of lentils and potatoes is one that I find nourishing in colder weather. Rice and beans, beans and bread, pasta and potatoes — are what my body craves this time of year.
Dal is usually prepared with ghee, the slightly browned, clarified butter used in so much Indian cooking. If you find butter hard to digest, feel free to substitute olive oil. My wife, Yasmin, who appreciates authentic cuisine but is not exactly limited by tradition, likes to serve this topped with a big scoop of steamed basmati rice, a few drops of Suero, the Venezuelan hot sauce made with buttermilk, a few grains of Himalayan salt, a drizzle of Ligurian olive oil and a side of toasted pita bread.
John Broening cooks at Olivea and Duo restaurants in Denver.
Dal
Makes about 5 cups.
Ingredients
2 cups uncooked red or yellow lentils
2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut in large dice
1 piece fresh ginger, about 1-2 inches to taste, peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch slices
6 cups water
6 tablespoons whole butter or 6 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds
2 teaspoons black mustard seeds
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and cut in a small dice
Pinch cayenne pepper or small spoonful of chili paste
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Olive oil for drizzling
Pita or chapati
Directions
In a 4-quart sauce pan, combine the lentils, potato, ginger, water and a pinch of salt. Cook over medium- low heat until the water is absorbed and the lentils are thoroughly tender, about 1 hour. Keep warm.
In a medium saute pan, warm the butter, cumin and mustard seeds over medium heat until the butter is lightly browned. Add the onions and cook until tender and caramelized, about 10 minutes. Fold the onion mixture into the lentils and mash the dal with a wooden spoon. It should still have a chunky, irregular texture.
Stir in the cayenne and lemon juice. Drizzle with olive oil. Serve with grilled pita or chapati or as a side with fish or chicken.
