Where & when: 1222 Madison St., 303-736-2260, . Monday-Friday, 3 p.m.-midnight, Saturday and Sunday 11:30 a.m.-midnight.
The look: A long community table, comfy booths, and low lighting make this place both cozy and energetic. Best design feature: the lively crowd.
The menu: Unchallenging food, elevated. Not just a pork sandwich, a porchetta (slow-cooked loin) sandwich. Not just a French Dip, a “Really Good French Dip.” Don’t miss the housemade hummus, a lovely mash of chickpeas, garlic and spices underneath a lattice of roasted pepper.
The vibe: Busy (even early in the week) but not so loud that you can’t converse. Families, couples on dates, solo diners at the bar.
When to visit: On nights when cooking at home’s just too taxing. You won’t spend too much here, and everyone will find something to eat.Tucker Shaw
