Q: We moved into our condo (1960s era, rehabbed around 2006) 3K years ago and we’ve learned that the hardwood flooring near the slider is decaying. Whenever there is moisture on the sliding glass door, it seems to pool in grooves at the bottom of the door and either gets on top of or under the flooring. Other owners have experienced even worse decay. The condo has a concrete floor and the Burke-manufactured hardwood flooring is glued, I think, on top. We want to make sure the next floor will not be damaged. We were thinking of a tile threshold or even replacing the door as others have done. — David Brooks
A: Since your slider is double-glazed (two layers of glass) it should not have that much water on it. A lot of water is due to excessive moisture (water vapor) in the condo that condenses on the glass. To solve this, install a dehumidifier, or open windows a few minutes twice a day to allow that moisture to escape. If you replace the door, install a French door, a nonslider that will not leak or have the problems sliders do.
Also, check the inside and outside grooves under the door to see if there are holes on the outside groove, designed to allow water to drain away. If they are plugged, open them. The grooves are separated by a low wall that has holes in it to allow water inside to go to the outside groove. Make sure they are open.
When you have the floor redone, install a wide strip of ceramic tile along that door to take all the moisture that comes its way. Better yet, do the whole floor in that room with glazed ceramic tile, the big (12-by-12 inches) tiles applied with thin-set mortar directly to the concrete. It will look good, and it’s a dream to keep clean. Make the joints 1/16th inch so there will be no concern with grout getting dirty or moldy. Put area rugs on the floor, too. It is not a good idea to glue wood to concrete.
Q: What temperature should my house be at on a normal basis in the winter? My living-room ceiling is 15-plus feet high and it gets cold quickly. Even though we have a fireplace, we can’t afford to have it on all the time. — Jahid
A: There is no set temperature required for any house. OK, say you choose a day temp of 65 degrees. If you are chilly, instead of turning up the heat, put on a sweater. You may be surprised at how comfortable you can be with proper clothing. Wool, silk and fleece are the best fabrics to use to be comfortable.
Contrary to many an opinion, small children (not babies) do not need high heat, given proper clothing. My wife put our son into a carriage outside one winter day, and after a certain interval, he and the carriage were covered with snow, and he was sleeping soundly, feeling no discomfort because of how well he was bundled up.
If you are still uncomfortable, go up to 66, and in one-degree increments until everyone is comfy. At night, turn the temp to 60, because it is easy to pile on the blankets in bed.
Once a room with high ceilings fills with warm air, it is easy to maintain that heat, just as in other rooms with lower ceilings because no more heat can be delivered until the air cools off.
Q:Can I install a rain disperser over my front door on architectural shingles? — Laura in Shirley, Mass.
A:Another name is Yankee gutter, a V-shaped 1×4 board nailed upside down to the roof over a doorway, in lieu of a standard gutter. The name is appropriate, because who but a Yankee would build a house (a Cape or Colonial) without an overhang or roof over the front entrance. It diverts water to each side of the door, preventing water from gushing right down a visitor’s collar.
It can be nailed on architectural shingles, which have a rather uneven surface. Apply a strip of roofing cement on the roof outlining the Yankee Gutter, then nail it on the tar. It will prevent leaks from the nails. Use galvanized finish nails.
Peter Hotton is The Boston Globe’s “Handyman on Call.” To reach him: photton@globe.com.
