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This rich Spanish soup gets its garlic flavor in two ways: First, there is the sliced garlic, which is slowly caramelized in a good amount of extra- virgin olive oil; then there is the garlic-infused oil produced by cooking the garlic; this oil is used to fry the bread, and then sweat the onions for the soup.

The soup is an elegant variation on the traditional Spanish sopa de ajo, a humble dish whose traditional components are water, garlic, bread and olive oil. In a classic sopa de ajo, the ingredients are left whole in a thin, garlic-scented broth. In this upscale version, which was shown to me by my former chef de cuisine, Chris MacGillivray, everything is pureed, velvety chicken broth is substituted for water, and the soup is given richness and a little tanginess by the addition of a generous amount of manchego cheese.

Be sure to take the time to slowly caramelize the garlic. The garlic should be stirred often and should gradually turn from white to golden with a touch of brown. Also, be sure to cook this soup in a nonreactive (i.e., not aluminum) pot. Aluminum will turn the soup a greenish color. Try glass or ceramic-coated cast iron.

John Broening cooks at Duo and Olivea restaurants in Denver.


Garlic Soup

Makes about 2 quarts.

Ingredients

1     cup extra virgin olive oil

1     cup sliced garlic

      Salt

1     cup white bread, cut into 1 inch cubes (crusts removed)

2     large yellow onions, sliced

1/4   cup dry white wine

1     quart chicken stock

1     tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped

2     cups grated manchego cheese

      Freshly ground pepper

      Pinch cayenne pepper

Directions

Warm the olive oil in a small pot over low-medium heat. Set up a small strainer over a small stainless steel bowl. Add garlic and cook slowly until golden, about 10 minutes. Strain the garlic into the strainer, saving the oil. Season the garlic with a pinch of salt.

Return the oil to the pot. Fry the bread cubes until golden, about 10 minutes. Strain the bread cubes into the strainer, saving the oil.

Heat a non-reactive 4 quart pot over medium heat. Pour the reserved garlic oil into the pot and add the onion and a pinch of salt. Stir the onions and sweat until softened but not colored, about 10 minutes. Add the white wine and reduce by half. Add the chicken stock, bread cubes, garlic and thyme.

Bring the soup to a boil and simmer about 10 minutes.

Transfer the soup to a blender along with the manchego and salt, pepper and cayenne to taste (be sure not to fill the blender more than half full). You will probably need to puree the soup in batches. Blend until smooth and chill the soup until ready to serve. Serve the soup warm.

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