Row 14 Bistro & Wine Bar
891 14th St. Suite 100 (in the Spire building), 303-825-0100, .
Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-midnight. Saturday 5 p.m.-midnight, Sunday 10 a.m.-midnight.
The look: Bright, comfortable and contemporary, with a sprawling photo-mural of winos a-guzzling accenting one wall and a majestic bar separated from the main dining room by chain-link curtains.
On the menu: Wine is in sharp focus at Row 14, so flavors on the plates are balanced and thoughtful. Arik Markus, Frasca alum, helms the kitchen, which turns out elevated takes on mostly American classics like chicken pot pie and pork chops, with European detours like bouillabaisse. Hard to argue with a supper of brandade (salt cod) fritters followed by a roasted half-chicken with chickpea puree and grilled radicchio. It’s early days, but this cooking team appears to be one to reckon with.
The vibe: Construction crews have all but co-opted the 14th St. corridor, which means the lunch crowd is still looking for this place. At suppertime, especially on the weekends, the room is fuller.
When to visit: Soon. This may be a tough table to get come summer.
Tucker Shaw, The Denver Post
