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Restaurants are listed alphabetically.

AMERICAN

Bittersweet

500 E. Alameda Ave., 303-942-0320,

(Very Good) Plates $12-$32. A compact menu of ambitious dishes, served in a rehabbed service station. Stylish but not cutesy takes on mostly American fare, like clam chowder and roasted duck breast. A smart choice for a date night, especially if you’re a walk-to local. Last reviewed April 2011.

The Crushery

1579 S. Pearl St., 303-733-4117;

(Very Good) Sandwiches about $7; salads $7.75; bagel sandwiches $3.75 and up. Bespoke ice creams (choose your flavor, they’ll make it fresh) are just a bonus at this Old South Pearl salad and sandwich shop, where fresh ingredients and fair prices make it one of the best deals on that strip. Last reviewed July 2010.

Lohi Steakbar

3200 Tejon St., 303-927-6334;

(Very Good/Great) Steaks $17 and up. Burgers $11 and up. It calls itself a bar, but really it’s a full- service restaurant, with affordable steaks, hot French fries, and plenty to drink. Come early or late; this neighborhood anchor is wildly popular. Last reviewed May 2010.

Root Down

1600 W. 33rd Ave., 303-993-4200,

(Very Good/Great) Plates $7-$22, with most around $9-$11. An eclectic menu of innovative, flavorful small dishes (many of which are vegetarian) drives this forward- thinking eatery and watering hole, fashioned from a reclaimed garage. Last reviewed March 2009.

Shazz

4262 Lowell Blvd., 303-477-1407,

(Very Good/Great) Appetizers $7-$11; mains $24-$35. Chef Benny Kaplan is one of Denver’s best, and his commitment to locally sourced, sustainable food is commendable. Don’t miss the braised oxtail appetizer, served over asiago grits, and don’t miss a few minutes at the bar for a signature cocktail mixed with house-made ingredients such as grenadine and orgeat. Last reviewed April 2009.

Vert Kitchen

704 S. Pearl St., 303-997-5941;

(Very Good) Sandwiches about $8-$12, including one side. Denver’s most addictive turkey sandwich tops the shortlist of offerings at this lunch-only storefront where locals (with and without baby carriages) gather and linger over midday meals. Simple, sophisticated cooking seals the deal. Last reviewed July 2010.

EUROPEAN

Cafe Aion

1235 Pennsylvania Ave., Boulder. 303-993-8131

(Great) Smart, contemporary, friendly cooking represents a Western Mediterranean mashup — Spanish and Moroccan flavors prevail. Service is casual but intelligent. Good for dates: Plates are meant to be shared, and the room, when not overcrowded, is cozy. Last reviewed April 2011.

Cracovia

8121 W. 94th Ave., Westminster, 303-484-9388, cracoviarestaurant

(Very good) Most entrees around $13-$15, nothing over $20. Serving substantial Polish favorites — sausages, stews and potatoes — in a lively atmosphere. A Westminster gem, worth the drive. Last reviewed May 2010.

Farro

8230 S. Holly St., 303-694-5432,

(Very Good) Almost nothing over $15. The southern suburbs are awash in restaurants, but precious few of them are any good. Enter Farro, at the corner of Holly Street and County Line Road, which serves homey, substantial fare with a casual-elegant twist. Good wine list, too. Last reviewed February 2009.

Lou’s Food Bar

1851 W. 38th Ave. 303-458-0336

(Very good/Great) Frank Bonanno (Mizuna, Luca, Bones) pushes into the Highland neighborhood with this cavernous bistro, serving accessible fare that’s more French than American, but only just: House-made sausages, steak frites, pâtes and cheese plates. Complete craft cocktail list. Last reviewed March 2011.

Ondo’s

250 Steele St., 303-975-6514, ondos

(Very good) Nothing over $16. Wine, shared plates, sparkling conversation: Is this a trip to San Sebastian? No, but the croquetas and albondigas are worth every penny. Come on a date, or with a group, and plan to take a cab home. Last reviewed April 2010.

Village Cork

1300 S. Pearl St, Denver 303-282-8399,

(Great) Very small menu, changes frequently, most items under $20. A wine bar at heart, with an excellently executed (and blessedly tiny) French-inflected menu. Neighborhoodies stroll over on weeknights for nibbles and sips; more strident foodies come for the excellent roasted chicken. Last reviewed May 2010.

Our star system:

: Exceptional

: Great

: Very good

: Good

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