Chicken legs have two significant advantages over chicken breasts: They’re cheaper and they taste better.
Chicken Quarters Roasted With Lemons and Green Olives
From “Sunday Roast,” by Betty Rosbottom (Chronicle Books). Serves 6.
Ingredients
3 large, thick-skinned lemons
6 chicken leg-and-thigh quarters with skin on, about 3 1/2pounds
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 cup chopped shallots (2 to 3 large shallots)
6 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley
4 teaspoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 1/4 cups dry white wine
1 cup green Mediterranean olives, pitted or unpitted
3/4 to 1 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese
Directions
Arrange a rack in the center position and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Zest 2 of the lemons to yield 2 tablespoons, and juice to yield 1/4 cup juice. Cut the third lemon into 6 wedges for the garnish.
Pat the chicken quarters dry with paper towels. Trim and discard any excess fat. Salt and pepper the chicken generously on both sides. Place an extra-large ovenproof frying pan (with a lid) over medium- high heat with enough oil to coat the bottom (3 to 4 tablespoons). When the oil is very hot but not smoking, add the chicken pieces in a single layer. Brown well on all sides, turning several times, for about 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the chicken to a side dish. Reserve 4 tablespoons of the oil in the frying pan and discard the rest (or add more oil to make 4 tablespoons, if necessary).
Return the pan to the stove over low heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, until just softened but not browned, for 1 to 2 minutes. Add half the parsley, the garlic and the oregano and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the lemon zest and juice, wine and olives, then return the chicken to the pan.
Bring the mixture to a simmer, then cover the frying pan and place it in the oven. Roast until the chicken is very tender when pierced with a knife, 45-50 minutes, then remove the lid and roast for 5 to 10 minutes longer to let the juices reduce slightly. Watch carefully so that the juices do not evaporate completely.
Remove the chicken to a platter, tent loosely with foil and set aside. Add 3/4 cup broth to the pan and heat until it is warm. The mixture should have a very thin, saucelike consistency. If too thick, add an additional 1/4 cup liquid.
To serve, pour the juices over the chicken. Sprinkle with feta cheese and the remaining parsley, and garnish with the lemon wedges.
