Axios Estiatorio 3901 Tennyson, Denver, 720-328-2225, . Open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
The look: Ex-patrons of previous tenant Brasserie Felix will recognize the open, airy dining room, though the space has been freshened up with new accents and a room divider. Big windows onto Tennyson Street.
On the menu: Greek favorites, prepared with a lighter hand than you’ll find at many Greek restaurants in town. Homemade hummus is garlicky but refreshingly lemony too; a suite of flatbreads holds up (if you’re a meat-eater, choose the “Kima,” piled with gyro meat and slow-roasted lamb); an ample lamb burger with delicate Bulgarian feta and salty tapenade hits a robust, well-seasoned note. A short, sweet wine list holds a few Greek bottles, but you won’t be boxed-in; several pours from California and Europe round out the roster.
The vibe: An easy, neighborhood spirit welcomes locals; service is friendly and enthusiastic.
When to visit: Come at lunchtime for a relaxed meal with a friend, or dinner for a little more “Opa!”
