What the Japanese call umami, or the savory taste, is generally acknowledged to be the fifth basic taste — the other four being sweet, salty, sour and bitter. It is a taste that is plentiful in Japanese cooking. Umami is found in dried mushrooms, soy sauce, seaweed and napa cabbage, all four of which are used in this recipe.
This recipe is the result of a growing infatuation with Japanese vegetarian cooking, which is probably the healthiest and most sophisticated vegetarian cuisine in the world.
In the fall, I find that I crave dishes that are savory and healthy at the same time. Dried mushrooms, especially dried shiitakes, have a rich aroma which, when rehydrated along with dried seaweed and soy, makes for a sauce with a rich and satisfying mouth feel. I find that I need just a touch of fat, in the form of toasted sesame oil, to “fix” the flavor of the dressing.
This pasta dish is the perfect bag lunch. Although it can be served warm, I find it’s best if you blanch the noodles ahead of time, combine them with the vegetable garnish and store them in a plastic container, with the sauce separate. Then I pour the sauce over the noodles when I’m ready to eat. (Add the dressing ahead of time and the noodles will absorb most of the sauce and turn soft.)
Note: This recipe calls for light soy sauce, which has the same umami flavor of regular soy, but less salt.
Buckwheat Noodles With Shiitake Mushrooms, Seaweed and Cabbage
Buckwheat vermicelli (also known as soba) and Kombu seaweed can be found at any Asian market. Serves 4.
Ingredients
Dried Shiitake Dressing (recipe follows)
1 cup sliced napa cabbage
1/2 cup julienned carrots, blanched 30 seconds
2 tablespoons finely sliced scallions
1 cup cilantro leaves, washed
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
1 tablespoon canola oil(if serving chilled)
2 tablespoons roasted peanuts, chopped
1 pound buckwheat vermicelli
Directions
To serve the buckwheat noodles warm: Place the napa cabbage, carrots, scallions, cilantro, sesame seeds and peanuts in a large mixing bowl. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the buckwheat noodles and cook 4-5 minutes until still al dente. Drain well and add to the mixing bowl. Pour the Dried Shiitake Dressing over the noodles, toss well (the noodles should be a little brothy) and serve immediately.
To serve the buckwheat noodles chilled: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the buckwheat noodles and cook 4 minutes. Drain the noodles well and shock in a bowl of ice water. Drain well and toss in 1 tablespoon of canola oil. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to use. Place the chilled noodles in a bowl along with the cabbage, carrots, scallions, cilantro, sesame seeds and peanuts in a large mixing bowl. Pour the dressing over the noodles, toss well, taste for seasoning and serve.
Dried Shiitake Dressing
Ingredients
1 cup dried shiitake mushrooms
Two 3-inch-by-3-inch pieces Kombu seaweed
3 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon brown sugar or agave syrup
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
Few drops hot sauce
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
Directions
At least two hours before using the dressing, place shiitakes and seaweed in a small bowl. Pour very hot water over the shiitakes and seaweed to barely cover, add 1 tablespoon of the light soy sauce and cover mixture with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least two hours or overnight.
Remove the plastic wrap from the shiitake mixture. Remove the seaweed and discard. Remove the shiitake mushrooms and julienne. Return the shiitakes to the broth and refrigerate, covered until ready to use.
To make the dressing, whisk the remaining soy sauce, the brown sugar or agave syrup, rice vinegar, hot sauce and sesame oil into the broth. Refrigerate until ready to use.
