Pickled fish is a delicacy that is cherished in hot and cold climates alike. Germans, Dutch, Eastern Europeans and Scandinavians have as many recipes for pickled herring as there are days of the year. Pickled herring is a crucial component of the Scandinavian smorgasbord, a cold buffet of open-faced sandwiches.
The warm-climate version of pickled fish is called escabeche. It differs from Northern European pickled fish in two ways. The first is that fish is deep-fried, poached or seared before it is pickled. The second is that a good amount of heat, in the form of chiles, is usually added.
This pickled fish recipe combines elements from both hot and cold climates. The fish is treated Northern-style — it is not cooked before it is pickled, and it is served with a good black bread. But the pickling liquid is made Southern-style with a good amount of spiciness and a few splashes of olive oil for balance.
This is a quick pickle — once the hot liquid that you pour over the fish has cooled, it is ready to eat. The pickling liquid is tasty, and the pickled onions and mustard seeds in the liquid are especially delicious. I like to serve the pickling liquid on the side with a spoon, but that might not be to everyone’s taste.
Note: At Olivéa, I make this recipe with farmed striped-bass fillets from Alamosa. If you can’t find Colorado striped bass, use East Coast striped bass, which is sold in bigger fillets which should be cut into half-inch-thick squares before you cut it into triangles.
Quick Pickled Fish
Serves 4.
Ingredients
4 fillets (4 ounces each) striped bass or trout, skin and pin bones removed
1 cup thinly sliced red onion
1½ cups distilled vinegar
½ cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
12 black peppercorns
Pinch chile flakes
Few sprigs fresh thyme
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Pumpernickel bread
Butter, softened
Directions
Cut the bass or trout into equal-sized triangles,about 1 inch on each side.
Place the fish pieces in a shallow baking pan so they are not touching.Sprinkle the onions over the fish.
Bring the vinegar, sugar, salt, spices, thyme and olive oil to a full boil and pour over the fish. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.
When the liquid is barely cool, remove from the refrigerator. Cut the bread into squares 1 inch on each side and butter generously. Top each square with a piece of fish (you will need to lift the fish with a small spatula), some of the pickled onions and a few of the spices from the pickling liquid. Serve with a small salad.
Note: The fish will keep for 3-4 days in a sealed container.
