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The grilled wahoo over ruby shrimp risotto at Baltimore’s Thames Street Oyster House was the single-best dish I had in 2014. (Photo by William Porter)

Today The Denver Post printed my I ate as a restaurant critic in 2014. By nature of the assignment, it was limited to Front Range restaurants I reviewed in the past year.

But with all props to our area’s many terrific chefs, the single-best dish I enjoyed in 2014 came on a trip to Baltimore in October for my wife’s 30th high-school reunion. (Western High School — go Doves!)

The dish was a special at the in Baltimore’s historic Fells Point neighborhood. It was grilled wahoo served over a stunning ruby shrimp risotto that was studded with spring peas and roasted pimentos. Just superb. There were actually two excellent dishes on the table. My wife ordered a lobster roll with big chunks of buttery lobster packed into a brioche roll.

Crazy good, and the essence of a great seafood town.

The lobster roll at Baltimore’s Thames Street Oyster House was another great out-of-town dining experience. (Photo by William Porter)

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