A bacon biscuit with apple butter equals breakfast bliss at Denver Biscuit Co. (Photo by William Porter, The Denver Post)
Back in North Carolina, I grew up on biscuits. I would slather them with country ham or honey-and-butter for breakfast, depending on my mood. Come evening, my mom almost always made a batch for dinner. They made a fine home for her thin-cut, fried pork chops. And they could sop up gravy to beat the band.
I can’t down biscuits the way I did as a kid, but when I need a fix I make a beeline to ., Drew Shader’s funky room at 3237 E. Colfax Ave. It opens every morning at 8, and on weekends the line forms quickly. It’s a big vaulted space with wooden floors and, typically, a mix of vintage R&B and Southern soul piped over the sound system.
They do all manner of biscuits, including gravy-laden ones (both veggie mushroom and sausage versions), plus an estimable biscuit BLT.
One of my new favorites there is a bacon biscuit with a side of apple butter, sweet and savory and piled on a crumbly biscuit that’s as big as a tomcat’s head. I usually order it with a side of sweet-and-spicy housemade pickles. You know, just so I get a vegetable.
For the record, I think this might be my first posting that doesn’t feature some version of eggs. Sorry, cackleberry farmers of America, but it happens.
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