Arequipa, the city in southern Peru where my wife was born, is considered one of that country’s gastronomic centers. Arequipeños pride themselves on having a different soup for every day of the week.
Because Peru is a Catholic country, Friday is fish-soup day, an occasion for cooks to trot out their distinctive versions of chupe de pescado. This week’s recipe comes from one of Denver’s finest Peruvian chefs, Francesco Rios, who owns Los Cabos in Denver. Francesca took me into her kitchen and showed me her version of chupe de pescado, which she made with poached eggs, tilapia and a rich fish broth that she made from salmon heads.
Francesca also added huatacay, the Peruvian black mint that has the flavor of mint with an earthy hint of oregano.
Although this is a good Friday night recipe, like most good broth-based soups, it tastes even better on a Saturday, after it has a chance to sit in the refrigerator.
Peruvian Fish Soup
Serves 4.
Ingredients
1-4 tablespoons canola oil, divided
1 yellow onion, minced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon mild chile paste
1 cup cooked hominy
1 quarts fish broth or clam juice
2 cup thinly sliced green cabbage
12 mint leaves
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ cup frozen peas
Optional: 4 eggs
1 pound small shrimp, peeled or 1 pound tilapia filets
Flour for dredging, if using the tilapia
Pinch salt
Directions
In a Dutch oven, heat one tablespoon of the oil over medium heat. Add the yellow onion and cook several minutes, until softened. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant but not colored, stirring often, about 1 minute.
Add the chile paste and fry briefly, stirring to incorporate rate it into the onion mixture.
Add the hominy and the fish broth or clam juice. Bring the liquid to a simmer and cook until it is reduced by a quarter and slightly thickened.
Add the cabbage, mint, oregano and peas and bring the liquid back to a simmer.
If using the eggs, carefully break them into the broth. Simmer the eggs 1 minute, then add the shrimp.
If using tilapia, dredge the fish in flour, season it with salt, fry in several tablespoons of oil until it is lightly browned on both sides. Add it to the fish and cook 1 minute.
Cook about 2 minutes more, until the shrimp are done. Adjust seasoning and serve immediately.
