New York and Chicago-style pies have long dominated Mile High pizzerias.
Sure, other styles have tried forays here, notably the St. Louis style of the Arch Pizza chain, which opened three stores in late 2013 before closing its tent a year later.
Now a new shop called The Good Son is introducing the non-Michigan slice of Denver’s population to Detroit-style pie.
This version of pizza is cooked in a square steel pan and is notable for the sauce and cheese being spread right to the pan’s edge. No Brooklyn fold on this rindless pie, unless you want your index finger swathed in molten mozzarella.
The restaurant and taphouse, part of the locally-owned , opened this spring in part of the former on East Colfax Avenue. And so far, it seems to be doing a bustling business.
The spot draws neighborhood diners, plus folks who come for the adjacent bookstore and . The Good Son offers more than just pie; sandwiches, burgers and daily blue plates are on the menu. But if you walk through the restaurant’s door, chances are you arrived for the pizza.
These are tasty pies. The ingredients aren’t fancy, hewing to the basics of marinara sauce, mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses, fresh basil and meats such as pepperoni and sausage. OK, the one dubbed the Tom Selleck includes pineapple and jalapeños, and the Spartan is topped with artichoke-spinach dip. But that’s about it for deviations from the classics.
We enjoyed the Buddy’s pie, a basic square topped with mozzarella, Parmesan and fontina cheeses with a sweet-savory tomato sauce. The parm was spread right to the pie’s edge, as billed, and had formed a thin, lacey browned crust with great flavor and an appealing crunch.
The pie’s crust is made from dough that’s been fermented for 36 hours before baking. While thicker than New York-style pie, it has a light airiness to it after being baked in the oak-fired oven.
Diners with faster metabolisms should try the Detroit Rock City. It’s the sort of hefty pie that Eminem might have wolfed down in his Marshall Mathers days, piled with tomato sauce, mozzarella, Parmesan, pepperoni, green peppers, red onions, olives and mushrooms. Urp.
Two standout sandwiches were the steak sandwich with a horseradish aioli, arugula and pickled onions on rosemary focaccia; and a turkey melt with fontina, plus the zip of pickled giardiniera.
I was less enamored with two appetizers.
The burrata didn’t taste quite as tender or creamy as it should have. Still, I liked the roasted cherry tomatoes and the green harissa, though a drizzle of pomegranate molasses added more sweetness than necessary.
And deviled eggs with capers and bacon had way too much smoked paprika. It was a dumping, rather than a sprinkling.
Along with an extensive beer list — 18 taps, count ’em — bar staffers have fun with cocktails. The Cantaloupe Negroni features house-infused cantaloupe gin, Lillet Blanc, Aperol and cantaloupe syrup. It’s as summery as it sounds.
Staffers at The Good Son seem to be having as much fun as the guests. And it’s good to see them sharing the entertainment out on the floor, rather than huddled at the end of the counter, which happens too often in some places. That speaks to good management.
So the show goes on at the old Lowenstein Theater. It’s just that Detroit-style pizza has taken center stage.
Bravo to that.
William Porter: 303-954-1877, wporter@ denverpost.com or twitter.com/ williamporterdp
THE GOOD SON
Detroit-style pizza and more
2550 E. Colfax Ave. 303-355-5445 thegoodsontap.com
** Very Good
Atmosphere: Fun, hip vibe and a lively crowd
Service: Friendly, and they know the menu
Beverages: Wine, cocktails, craft beers on 18 taps
Plates: Small plates and salads, $3-$11; sandwiches and burgers, $8.50-$22; daily blue plates, $12-$17; pizzas, $11.50-$13
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. (bar until 11 p.m.); Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (bar until midnight); Sunday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Closed Monday.
Details: Parking lot and garage.
Two visits
Our star system:
****: Exceptional
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
Stars reflect the dining reviewer’s overall reaction to the restaurant’s food, service and atmosphere.
