Over Mother’s Day weekend, gardeners greet the new season with high hopes for beautiful blooms and early ripe tomatoes. And why not? Spring almost means a “do over,” or at least “do it better.”
Spring shopping and planting
•For best bloom and plant health remember the basics: site the plant and hanging basket in the right location. Read the sun/shade recommendation on the plant tag. Check the label for growth size, cultural requirements and cold hardiness — USDA zone. Most of Denver is in zone 5, higher elevations are zone 4 or 3.
•Inspect plants at the garden center. Look for healthy, green foliage and creamy white, fleshy roots (it is okay to gently lift the plant out of the container to inspect the roots). If the roots are a tangle and wound tightly, before planting be sure to score or cut the four sides of the root ball to encourage the roots to grow into the soil.
•A little two or four-inch plant in a container doesn’t do it justice — or indicate what it will become as it grows up in your garden (sited and planted correctly). Familiarize yourself with the plant and its mature nature.
•Position plants in the landscape according to color, size and bloom times. Planting in odd numbers or single specimen gives more impact.
•Plan to have something in bloom spring, summer and fall.
•Existing and new planting areas, including vegetable and annual beds, require good drainage and fertility. Follow soil test results when adding amendment or fertilizers.
•Going from the warm, non-windy garden center to the Colorado sun and elements can negatively affect new plants and hanging baskets unless slowly acclimated. Place them outside in the shade for a few days, each day increasing the time and exposure to the sun and wind. Move them to a garage, shed or house at night. In about five days they are ready to be planted in the ground or container. If the plant was already outside when purchased then no “hardening off” period is necessary.
•Dig the planting hole 2-3 times wider than the container and as deep as the plant was in the container, or a bit higher, which helps with drainage. Fill the hole with the back-fill soil, water well and watch for settled soil, adding more soil if necessary. Keep new plantings watered until well established. Even the most low-water-needing plants require a full year to get well established.
•With annuals and hanging baskets expect best bloom with regular fertilizer (every 7-10 days at half strength works) and on-going pinching or removing spent blooms to keep them blooming strong.
•Hanging baskets can dry out quickly so check them often and water twice a day — morning and afternoon on warm days. Turn the basket so it gets full sun exposure (if it requires full sun) or attach a swivel hook so it rotates. (:-hanging-baskets-for-mothers-day)
•It’s a good idea to have cover cloths, sheets or boxes on hand to cover new or warm-season plantings on cold nights that dip below the fifties.
•Continue planting hardened off cool season vegetables — lettuce, kale, radish, potatoes, etc. — and ornamental plants — violas, pansies primroses and snapdragons.
Lawn
•The lawn is open for business — mowing, aerating and fertilizing are in full swing. If your lawn has greened up well, then hold off on fertilizing until late May to mid June.
•Mow frequently since growth is quicker in the spring, especially after all the recent moisture.
Outdoor container smart tip
•To loosen dried, packed potting soil left in containers all winter, find your auger for planting fall bulbs. Attach it to an electric drill and run it carefully up and down the compacted soil in the container. Once the soil is loose, toss the top few inches into the compost pile and re-fresh the container with new potting soil. If the container was growing vegetables and suffered from insect or disease damage last year, remove all the potting soil, sterilize the container with a 1 to 10 bleach/water or vinegar solution and rinse well. Now you’re ready for the new container gardening season.
Read more of Betty Cahill’s gardening advice at
