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Skip the busy Colorado mountains in the winter. Instead, go east.

Places like Paint Mines Interpretive Park, Pawnee Buttes and Picketwire Canyon are worth the energy

Paint Mines Interpretive Park near Calhan is an easy trail that provides scenery found in few places in Colorado. (Denver Post file photo)
Paint Mines Interpretive Park near Calhan is an easy trail that provides scenery found in few places in Colorado. (Denver Post file photo)
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The brake lights ahead of you on Interstate 70 seem to stretch to the end of the horizon.

Add frequent mountain snow to the equation, passenger cars without snow tires spinning out; semi drivers ignoring the chain law and blocking lanes; and outright closure of the highway, and you may ask yourself, “Why am I doing THIS on my weekend?

If you’re familiar with the nightmare that is I-70 mountain traffic in winter, especially if you’re doomed to be a weekend warrior, it’s enough to make you want to curl up on the couch and forget about outdoor recreation until May.

But west isn’t the only direction from Denver to find a winter adventure. Many Coloradans shrug off the Eastern Plains as flat and boring, especially compared to the majestic Rockies, but they hide many gems, natural, cultural and historical, worthy of your winter travels.

Castlewood Canyon State Park

The Lucas Homestead ruins along Castlewood Canyon State Park's Haunted Trail. (Liz Bade, Castlewood Canyon State Park)
The Lucas Homestead ruins along Castlewood Canyon State Park's Haunted Trail.

Early on the morning of Aug. 3, 1933, a dam south of Denver burst, sending a 15-foot wall of water down Cherry Creek into Denver. It was never rebuilt.

Today, the site of the dam is part of this gorgeous state park about 50 minutes from Denver. Encompassing a beautiful, boulder-strewn canyon, it’s a landscape that feels out of place on the Front Range. You can wander its many trails, ranging in length from a half-mile to 4 miles, along the creek in the canyon or the rim, which offers great views of Pikes Peak.

Visitors can see the remains of the dam and other historical sites, climb its 60-foot-high rock walls, all in a landscape usually devoid of ice and snow.

Admission: $10/vehicle, $4/individual. Location: 2989 South State Highway 83, Franktown

Paint Mines Interpretive Park

The rolling prairie of far eastern El Paso County, near the town of Calhan, hides an amazing secret, one you can’t even see until you’re there.

with a kaleidoscope of different colors, caused by oxidized iron compounds in the clay. Humans have been visiting the area for 9,000 years. Today, you can hike a 4-mile loop trail that will take you into the heart of this bizarre landscape.

It’s a unique example of erosion and geology you’ll find nowhere else on the Front Range.

There’s a restroom but no drinking water, so come prepared. When blizzards hit the Eastern Plains, it’s a great place to explore on cross-country skis … well, perhaps wait until the day after the blizzard.

Admission: Free. Location: 29950 Paint Mines Road, Calhan

Sand Creek Massacre National Historic Site

EADS, CO - NOVEMBER 14: A controversial monument sits in a memorial setting along The Bluff Trail Interpretive Walk above the site of the Sand Creek Massacre at the National Historic Site on November 14, 2022 near Eads, Colorado. The granite monument is controversial even today because it describes what happened at Sand Creek as a battle rather than a massacre. The monument was placed there in the 1950's. On the morning of November 29, 1864, U.S. Volunteer Cavalry launched a surprise attack on a peaceful encampment of Cheyenne and Arapaho along the banks of the Big Sandy Creek in an effort to remove the tribes from the area. Black Kettle, one of several Peace Chiefs in the village, raised an American and white flag of truce above his Tipi to no avail. The attack resulted the death of about 200 Cheyenne and Arapaho, many of whom were horribly mutilated. In 1865, the United State Government accepted responsibility for and condemned the massacre as part of the Treaty of the Little Arkansas, but charges were never brought against those responsible. Although permanently affected by the massacre, the Cheyenne and Arapaho hold strongly to their culture, language and traditions today. Recently, the National Park Service has purchased an additional 3,478 acres of land to expand the Sand Creek Massacre historic site in southeastern Colorado more than doubling the size of the existing preserve. The site was established to preserve the location of the massacre and the shortgrass prairie land on Colorado's Eastern Plains. (Photo by Helen H. Richardson/The Denver Post)
A controversial monument sits in a memorial setting along The Bluff Trail Interpretive Walk above the site of the Sand Creek Massacre at the National Historic Site on Nov. 14, 2022, near Eads. (Photo by Helen H. Richardson/The Denver Post)

In southeast Colorado, about a three-hour drive from Denver, the windswept prairie hides one of the blackest moments in the state’s history.

On Nov. 29, 1864, Colorado volunteer soldiers carried out a surprise attack on 750 Cheyenne and Arapaho people camping here while they tried in vain to negotiate a settlement with Colorado Gov. John Evans. More than 230 men, women and children were killed.

The killers were heralded as heroes, but time has changed that view, and the national historic site was created in 2007 to commemorate the killings. You’ll have to use your imagination as you walk through the area, aided by interpretive signs and exhibits.

The horror of that day still echoes down through the ages. In 2023, during a time of national reflection on American history, Mount Evans west of Denver was renamed Mount Blue Sky because of the Colorado governor’s role in the tragedy.

Admission: Free. Location: Near the town of Chivington, turn north onto County Road 54/Chief White Antelope Way or at Brandon, turn north onto County Road 59. Follow these roads to their intersections with County Road W. The park entrance is along CR W a mile east (right) of CR 54 or several miles west (left) of CR 59.

Picketwire Canyon

A dinosaur footprint made by an allosaurus, a two-footed, ferocious, meat-eating scavenger, is preserved along the banks of the Purgatoire River in Picketwire Canyon. (Jay Janner, Boulder Daily Camera)
A dinosaur footprint made by an allosaurus, a two-footed, ferocious, meat-eating scavenger, is preserved along the banks of the Purgatoire River in Picketwire Canyon. (Jay Janner, Boulder Daily Camera)

Ever dreamed of walking in a dinosaur’s footprints? You’ll find the largest collection of dinosaur tracks in North America at this site in the Comanche National Grassland of southeastern Colorado.

This site features more than 1,400 individual tracks left by the plant-eating Brontosaurus and the carnivorous Allosaurus on 100 separate pathways. Research here has helped lead scientists to believe these creatures were social and traveled in packs.

You can see the tracks on a guided auto tour, but you’ll need a four-wheel-drive, high-clearance vehicle. Reservations for a tour can be made at . There’s also a demanding, 11-mile hike that drops 250 feet and crosses a shallow river.

This is remote country, with no water, services or cellphone coverage, so plan accordingly.

Admission: $20/adult for the guided auto tour, free for the hike. Location: South of La Junta, about a three-hour drive from Denver.

Pawnee Buttes

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In the Pawnee National Grassland of far northeastern Colorado are twin mounds that rise 300 feet above the prairie, dominating the view for miles. These once rose thousands of feet higher, though wind and rain have eroded the crumbling sandstone to their current heights.

A gentle 2-mile trail takes you to the first butte, where an overlook offers stunning views of the geologic marvels. Climbing is not recommended due to the fragile nature of the soil. The second, smaller butte is on private property, to be admired from afar.

The area is closed March 1-June 30 to protect nesting birds.

Admission: Free. Location: From Ault, head east on Colorado Highway 14 for about 27 miles, then turn left on Weld County Road 105. Travel about 4 miles north and continue onto County Road 390. Travel 2 miles, then turn right onto County Road 103. Travel 2 miles north, then take a right onto County Road 104. Travel 4 miles east, and turn left onto County Road 111. Turn right onto County Road 110, followed by a left onto County Road 113. Travel 0.5 miles to the trailhead parking area.

R. Scott Rappold is a freelance writer based in Del Norte.

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