抖阴ap

By Yewande Komolafe, The New York Times

As a reserved extrovert, I love cooking and hosting in my own home, and the feeling that sharing a meal with others gives me. My instinct has always been to create a careful, detailed, curated plan — one that, admittedly, does not always work. I鈥檝e had to quickly pivot, turning underproofed doughs meant for rolls into crackers or soggy jollof rice into panko-crusted fritters. But the goal is not perfection; it抖阴ap to open up my space and myself to family, friends and sometimes even strangers.

To understand — and share 鈥� my approach to these meals, I鈥檝e selected 25 recipes from New York Times Cooking, dishes that highlight the flavors of the African continent and its diaspora, a focus of my work as a columnist for the Times. All of the recipes are drawn from everyday life of places like Nigeria, Liberia, Kenya and Somalia. They tell a rich story of a region鈥檚 food, balanced, vibrant and deeply nourishing.

The recipes here include crisp-crunchy appetizers; robust soups and stews; sparkly condiments for dipping; generous helpings of meaty mains; and vegetable dishes that are textured and bright. You can make them for any style of gathering — formal or casual, seated multicourse or standing room only. Mix and match them as you like. Below, you鈥檒l find three possible menus that I鈥檝e created for you, too.

Take these dishes as an offering, a springy step forward after the long winter months. Feel free to include your guests as part of the planning process. Delegate any task you can鈥檛 do yourself; this support will free up your mind and allow you to execute the meal as intended. It will also make way for conversation, catching up, reflecting and sharing, all future memories of an unforgettable gathering.

MENUS

Each of these suggested menus is a journey, evocative and riddled with flavor. Every course is an invitation to fill your kitchen with scents that waft across your nose; audible sears, spatters, pops and crunches that please your ears; and tingles of sour, spice, bitter and sweet that awaken your taste buds.

— MENU A begins with hilib sambuus (beef dumplings), a Somali delicacy and cousin of South Asian samosas that has made its way across Africa and is often known by different names. After this robust appetizer, I like to serve spicy peanut and pumpkin soup, a simple pur茅e featuring groundnuts. Then, I move on to a main with two starchy sides. Jollof rice begins on the stovetop and ends in a hot oven; roasted shrimp with okra and tomatoes and roasted carrots with yaji spice relish are convenient since the oven is already going. The last bite here is a quick mango kulfi, a refreshing palate cleanser after all those dancing flavors.

— MENU B follows similar directives of sensory delight, beginning with a Liberian collard green dip, inspired by a conversation with chef Ope Amosu of Ch貌pnBlok in Houston. He often serves his with fried plantain chips, but any chip would work. It抖阴ap a lively introduction to this menu鈥檚 flavors. Moving east, the Zanzibari street food urojo, a bright, bouncy soup, has been adapted for the home cook here, and is then followed by a return to Somalia with xawaash braised lamb shanks. It抖阴ap paired with a firm but delicately set bean pudding, m峄峣n-m峄峣n for a gathering. Use the humble bur岷固乨矛 谩g岷固�g岷� to drag sauces to your mouth. A beet salad tinged with coriander-yogurt dressing and in-season fresh fruit end the meal on a nuanced, earthy note.

— MENU C, my favorite, begins with a lively chaat party! We follow this active appetizer right into the equally spirited main course, baked tofu with peanut sauce and coconut-lime rice served with caramelized plantains with beans, lemon and scallions and cagaar (spinach stew) to spoon over as many vegetables as possible. Lastly, spiced coconut tapioca pudding with fruit, steeped with lemongrass, makrut lime leaves and gentle warming spices, delivers a final moment to pause, delight and reflect.

APPETIZERS

A great starter offers an introduction to the menu, gets your mouth moving, activates your senses and whets your appetite.

Liberian Stewed Greens Dip

A staple vegetable in Liberia, collard greens are cooked in a variety of ways across the West African nation and its vast diaspora. Whole leaves wrap an array of proteins for gentle steaming, and shredded leaves with their stems are added to various soups and stews. Stewed greens are the most popular preparation, known for being robust and deep in flavor with a lot of nuance. This recipe is adapted from Ope Amosu, chef of Houston鈥檚 Ch貌pnBlok restaurants, who serves the stewed greens as a dip for plantain chips. He combines sturdy greens, bell peppers, onions and prawns with fermented, smoked and dried ingredients. Over a long simmer, the vegetables slowly relax, yielding to the broth and absorbing the surrounding flavors. Serve as a dip for chips or fritters, or alongside xaawash braised lamb shanks, crispy suya-spiced salmon or a starchy swallow.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 10 to 12 servings

Total time: 90 minutes

Ingredients

• 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, scrubbed and chopped
• 10 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
• 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated
• 3 Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers, stemmed, seeded if you like
• 1 small yellow onion, cut into 1-inch chunks
• 2 medium bell peppers, any color, quartered and seeded
• 1 bunch collards or any chard greens, stems and leaves separated and chopped
• 1 bunch kale, stems and leaves separated and chopped
• 1 bunch mustard or dandelion greens, stems and leaves separated and chopped
• 1/2 cup neutral-flavored oil, such as canola, safflower or grapeseed
• 2 tablespoons dried 铆r霉 (dried, fermented locust beans), soaked in warm water to soften, then rinsed and drained, see Tip
• 2 tablespoons ground dried crayfish, or tiny dried shrimp (soaked in warm water for 5 minutes to soften, then drained), see Tip
• 2 (7-ounce) pieces 岷筳a panla (cold-smoked hake, see Tip) or smoked white fish fillet, skin off and picked of any bones, flakes broken into 1-inch pieces
• 1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
• Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
• 2 teaspoons stock concentrate, meat or vegetable, plus more to taste (optional)
• 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest (from 2 lemons)
• 1/4 cup fresh purple or Thai basil leaves or fresh scent leaves (see Tip), chopped
• Plantain chips, for serving

Preparation

1. In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the ginger, garlic, scallion whites, Scotch bonnets, onion, bell peppers, collard stems, kale stems and mustard green stems to break up, then process for 1 minute to form a coarse pur茅e. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and move the mixture to a large bowl.

2. Working in batches if needed, add the collard, kale and mustard green leaves to the food processor and pulse twice to break up. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, and process again until the leaves are in small, even pieces, similar to confetti, about 30 seconds. Add to the large bowl. Once all the ingredients have been chopped, combine with your hands.

3. Place a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add the oil and warm for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the 铆r霉, ground crayfish and smoked fish. Cook, stirring often to evenly distribute, until fragrant and light golden brown, 30 to 60 seconds.

4. Increase the heat to medium, add the leafy green mix and sprinkle in the baking soda. Stir to evenly coat the mix with the seasoned oil and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 teaspoons salt and the stock concentrate, if using. Stir to combine.

5. Reduce the heat to low, cover with the lid cracked and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the greens release their liquid, the mixture is simmering, and the vegetables are softened, 22 to 25 minutes. Remove the lid, taste and add salt, if necessary.

6. Continue to cook, stirring frequently to loosen any stuck bits and prevent the sauce from sticking, about 15 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until all of the vegetables have collapsed into a cohesive sauce and everything is slicked with golden, glistening oil, 10 minutes. There should be visible puddles of sauce on the surface and along the edge of the pot. The sauce should stay in place with some pooling of oil when a spatula is dragged through.

7. Add the lemon zest, basil and scallion greens, stir to combine and cook until just warm, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a serving bowl. Serve warm or at room temperature with plantain chips for dipping. (Once cooled, the sauce can be stored in an airtight container and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months.)

Tips

Scent leaves are a leafy green herb known for its jagged edges, sharp bite and scented, peppery qualities. Purple basil and Thai basil, which come close, can occasionally be found fresh and in season at farmers markets. Dried and crumbled scent leaves can be found prepackaged at any African, Caribbean or international grocery store.

You can find dried 铆r霉 (dried, fermented locust beans), 岷筳a panla (cold-smoked hake or catfish), and ground dried crayfish at African, Caribbean or international grocery stores. Smoked white fish is an adequate substitute for 岷筳a panla.

Spicy Peanut and Pumpkin Soup

This recipe is a promise of warmth on those cool autumn nights. Habanero chiles and peanuts both feature heavily in Nigerian cuisine, and this soup is an adaptation of a long-simmered stew common to much of West Africa. Don鈥檛 be afraid of a chile with seeds: The fragrant oils from these peppers are worth every bite. The peanut butter and coconut milk mellow the warmth of the chile to a gentle, lingering heat, but you can also take the chile out before the soup is pur茅ed. An optional spoon of honey to the soup will round out the flavors, and a dollop of cr猫me fra卯che or yogurt will further temper the heat. Serve with a baguette or sourdough bread for dipping.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 35 minutes

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium onion, peeled and diced (about 1 1/2 cups)
• 4 garlic cloves, smashed
• 1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and chopped
• 1/2 habanero or bird鈥檚 eye chile
• 1 (14-ounce) can pumpkin pur茅e
• 3 cups water (or use chicken or vegetable stock)
• 1 (13-ounce) can coconut milk
• 1 tablespoon agave or honey (optional)
• 1/4 cup unsweetened natural peanut butter
• Salt
• 2 tablespoons sliced fresh chives (optional)
• 1/4 cup cr猫me fra卯che or yogurt (optional)

Preparation

1. In a large stock pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, garlic and ginger, and cook, stirring frequently until softened and just beginning to brown around the edges, about 4 minutes. Stir in the chile and pumpkin pur茅e, and whisk in the water or stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and allow to simmer on low, giving an occasional stir, for 20 minutes or until slightly reduced and thickened. Remove the chile after the soup simmers if you don鈥檛 care for much spice.

2. Add coconut milk, agave or honey (if using), and peanut butter to the pot. Using an immersion blender or working in batches in a standing blender, pur茅e the soup until smooth. Season with salt and keep warm over low heat. Do not bring soup up to a simmer or boil at this point. (This reduces the risk of the oils in the peanut butter separating and breaking the soup鈥檚 smooth texture.)

3. Divide soup between bowls, sprinkle with the chives and a dollop of cr猫me fra卯che or yogurt, or a drizzle of olive oil to make it vegan. Serve with a warm crusty baguette or chunks of warm sourdough for dipping.

Beet Salad With Coriander-Yogurt Dressing

Disks of succulent roast beets make this salad especially hearty. If your oven is already on, throw in some beets wrapped in foil, and roast them until tender. But if you are pressed for time, grab some store-bought cooked beets. They鈥檒l work just as well. This salad is all about big forkfuls of vegetables; the plump chickpeas, which are suffused with warm coriander and bright orange zest, lend a delightful crunch. It抖阴ap all finished with a creamy yogurt dressing you鈥檒l want to drizzle over everything on your plate.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 6 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients

• 1 (15 1/2-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 orange
• 1/4 cup full-fat Greek yogurt
• 3 tablespoons rice vinegar
• 2 pounds cooked whole red or golden beets (store-bought or homemade), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds
• 3 cups baby arugula

Preparation

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Spread the chickpeas on a small baking sheet and pat dry with a kitchen towel. Season lightly with salt, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon coriander and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Roast the chickpeas until golden brown and crispy, shaking the sheet halfway through baking, 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, and while still warm, zest the orange over the roasted chickpeas. Stir to combine.

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the yogurt, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 2 tablespoons rice vinegar and the remaining 1 teaspoon ground coriander. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

3. In a medium bowl, toss the beets, remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, remaining 1 tablespoon rice vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Add the arugula and toss to combine.

4. To serve, spread half of the yogurt dressing on a serving platter. Add the beet mixture and scatter the chickpeas all over the top. Spoon the remaining yogurt dressing over everything and serve immediately.

Cagaar (Spinach Stew)

Reflecting its main ingredient, cagaar (pronounced 鈥渁g-aar鈥�) is both the Somali translation for the color green and a spinach stew. While spinach is the heart of this dish, other vegetables are often included such as okra, carrots, zucchini, or cabbage, depending on one鈥檚 preference. This dish almost always utilizes tomatoes as the base, weaving in warm xawaash spices and sparks of mild heat from the jalape帽os. This flavorful vegan dish works well over soor (grits), white rice, or alongside suqaar and muufo (corn flatbread).

By Ifrah F. Ahmed

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 large white onion, diced
• 8 garlic cloves, minced
• 5 medium tomatoes, diced
• 1 (16-ounce) bag frozen cut spinach
• 1 large handful cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
• 2 tablespoons xawaash (see Tip)
• 1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 large jalape帽o, halved
• 1 3/4 teaspoons fine sea salt

Preparation

1. In a medium pot over medium heat, heat up 2 tablespoons of oil until the oil is shimmering, about 1 minute. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 to 6 minutes.

2. When the onion has softened, stir in the garlic. After 1 minute, turn the heat to medium-high, mix in the diced tomatoes and cover. Cook until the tomatoes have broken down completely, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes.

3. When the tomatoes have disintegrated into a chunky sauce, add in the spinach, cilantro, xawaash, tomato paste, jalape帽o, salt and 1 1/2 cups water. Lower heat to medium, cover, and cook the cagaar for 18 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Discard the jalape帽o, if you鈥檇 like, before serving. (Cagaar can last for 3 to 4 days, covered and refrigerated.)

Tips

To prepare your own xawaash blend, add 4 teaspoons ground cumin, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves, 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon and 1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom to a small nonstick pan. Toast over low heat, stirring continuously, for 1 minute or until the spice mix becomes fragrant, then stir in 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric. Makes 2 tablespoons.

Zanzibari Mix (Urojo)

A fragrant, brothy green mango soup with a sour bite, Zanzibar mix is a staple of the archipelago鈥檚 street food stands. The soup is made with an aromatic base of onion, garlic, ginger and chile. It抖阴ap then typically topped with chunky mashed potato, crunchy bits that can include falafel or cassava chips, and a boiled egg. The essence is in the combination of ingredients, and the choice is yours. Here, the toppings include onions, tomatoes, spiced toasted panko, cilantro and any hot pepper sauce you like best, but feel free to improvise. The soup will make enough to cool, portion and refrigerate (for up to a week) or freeze (for up to three months).

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 4 to 6 servings (about 2 quarts)

Total time: 40 minutes

Ingredients

For the Soup:

• 1 (13 1/2-ounce) can unsweetened full-fat coconut milk or coconut cream
• 2 green mangoes, peeled, pitted and cut into large chunks (3 cups)
• 1/4 cup lime juice (from about 2 limes), plus more to taste
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose or chickpea flour
• 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil, divided
• 1 cup panko breadcrumbs
• 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
• 1 tablespoon black or yellow mustard seeds
• 1 tablespoon garam masala
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus more for seasoning
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 medium red onion, chopped small
• 4 garlic cloves, grated
• 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, grated
• 2 fresh green bird鈥檚-eye chiles, stemmed and halved, seeds in or out
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 large russet potato, peeled and diced (2 cups)
• 1 (13 1/2-ounce) can chickpeas, pinto beans or black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained

For Serving:

• 2 plum tomatoes, chopped
• 1/2 cup cilantro leaves
• 1/4 to 1/2 cup hot pepper sauce, homemade or store-bought
• Lime wedges, for garnish

Preparation

1. In a blender or food processor, blend the coconut milk, mango, 1/4 cup lime juice and flour with 1 cup water until smooth. Set aside.

2. Heat 1/4 cup ghee in a medium (10-inch) pot on high. Add the panko, cumin, mustard seeds, garam masala and paprika. Toast, stirring to coat panko completely, for 30 to 45 seconds, until the panko turns a light golden brown and the spices begin to sputter. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and the black pepper. Move to a large plate and set aside. Wipe out the pot.

3. Return the pot to the heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoons ghee, half of the onion, garlic and ginger. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, about 1 minute.

4. Reduce heat to medium and add green chiles, turmeric and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring often, until mixture is fragrant, about 30 seconds.

5. Add potato, increase heat to high and stir in 2 cups water. When the mixture starts simmering (3 to 4 minutes), decrease heat to medium, cover and cook until potatoes begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the chickpeas and stir in the coconut milk mixture. Cook until the potatoes are easily pierced with the tip of a small knife and the soup easily runs off a spoon, 5 to 7 minutes. Adjust with another 1/4 cup water if it抖阴ap too thick. Taste and season with salt and more lime juice if necessary.

6. To serve, ladle into 4 to 6 bowls and top with the chopped tomatoes, remaining onion, toasted panko, cilantro, hot pepper sauce and a lime wedge. Serve immediately. The soup will make enough to cool, portion and refrigerate (for up to a week) or freeze (for up to three months).

Chaat Party

The beauty of chaat — a category of tangy, sweet, fiery and crunchy Indian snacks 鈥� is that it抖阴ap built for customization. The only common denominator is that alchemy of flavor sensations, often driven by a combination of sweet-and-sour tamarind chutney, a bright herb chutney (like this cilantro-mint chutney or this green chile chutney) and cooling raita. Otherwise, base ingredients and toppings (and even those chutneys!) can all be interchanged. This spirit is the driving force behind Maneet Chauhan鈥檚 chaat party, from her cookbook, 鈥淐haat鈥� (Clarkson Potter, 2020), a choose-your-own-adventure spread that allows eaters to build a chaat suited to their tastes: More crunch! Less spicy! More sweet! More herbs! It抖阴ap entirely up to you. This is a great way to entertain, and also a quick, no-cook dinner. Use this list as a starting point for ingredients, but feel free to get creative. If you are able to get banana leaves, spread them out over the table before arranging everything else on top for a bright pop of color.

Recipe from Maneet Chauhan

Adapted by Priya Krishna

Yield: Varies

Total time: 10 minutes, for assembly

Ingredients

For the crunchy bases:

• Chakri (chickpea flour crackers)
• Chekkalu (rice flour crackers)
• Thattai (spiced rice flour and sesame crackers)
• Namak para (spiced whole-wheat flour crackers)
• Bhel (puffed rice)
• Murukku (wheat flour crackers)

For the fruits, vegetables and herbs:

• Tomatoes, cucumbers, pineapple, mangoes and radishes, coarsely chopped
• Boiled potatoes, coarsely chopped
• Roasted sweet potatoes, coarsely chopped
• Cilantro and mint, coarsely chopped
• Onions and fresh ginger, finely chopped
• Fresh red chiles, such as Kashmiri or bird鈥檚 eye, and green chiles, such as serrano, finely chopped
• Starfruit, sliced
• Roasted corn kernels
• Lemon and lime wedges, for spritzing

For the sauces (recipes on NYT Cooking):

• Tamarind Chutney
• Cilantro-Mint Chutney
• Green Chile Chutney
• Raita (whole-milk yogurt whisked with water to make it thin enough to drizzle, then seasoned with salt and freshly squeezed lemon juice)

For other toppings:

• Roasted peanuts and cashews
• Chaat masala
• Red chile powder
• Sev

Preparation

1. Put each item in an individual bowl alongside a stack of larger bowls to enable your guests to mix up their chaat with a spoon or, more traditionally, their hands.

2. As a starter suggestion for assembly: Begin with a crunchy base (crackers, bhel or murukku), add vegetables and fruits, then chutneys and raita, and finally lime juice, plus any combination of other toppings, such as chaat masala, red chile powder and sev. Improv and adjustments are encouraged.

Zanzibari Pizza

A very Zanzibari improvisation, this take on pizza is familiar to locals and tourists alike, but it抖阴ap very different from the Italian original. Instead of a crust with toppings, it抖阴ap a roti cooked on a flat, hot griddle, and folded around a spiced ground meat filling enhanced with cabbage, fresh eggs, tomatoes, shallots and sometimes crumbled cheese. A roti or paratha is used here, but frozen green onion pancakes also work. Serve with hot pepper sauce and ketchup for dipping.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the filling:

• 2 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup chopped shallots
• 1 teaspoon garam masala
• 1 garlic clove, grated
• 1 (1-inch) piece ginger, grated
• 4 ounces ground beef, lamb, chicken or turkey
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

For the pizza:

• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, for sprinkling
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced green or red cabbage
• 1/4 cup chopped plum tomatoes
• 1/4 cup chopped shallots
• 1/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
• 4 eggs
• 4 (7- to 9-inch) paratha, roti or Taiwanese green onion pancakes (fresh or frozen, defrosted if frozen)
• 3 ounces spreadable cheese, such as Laughing Cow (4 wedges), at room temperature (optional)
• 4 1/2 teaspoons ghee or vegetable oil
• Ketchup, for serving
• Hot pepper sauce (homemade or store-bought), for serving

Preparation

1. Prepare the filling: Add the ghee or oil to a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, and stir and cook until just tender, about 1 minute. Add the garam masala, garlic and ginger. Stir and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the ground meat, stirring frequently to coat in the spices and aromatics, until the meat is completely done, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the salt and black pepper. Remove from heat and transfer the filling to a medium bowl to cool completely. You should have 1 1/2 cups. At this point, you can move ahead with the pizza, or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

2. Make the pizza: Line a baking sheet or a large plate with parchment and sprinkle on some flour. Remove your filling from the refrigerator, if necessary. Add the cabbage, tomatoes, shallots and cilantro. Crack in the eggs and stir to distribute. Set aside.

3. Arrange 1 paratha (or 2, if using a baking sheet) on the parchment and place 1 cup filling in the center, leaving a 1-inch border along the edge of the paratha. Top with 1 piece of wedge cheese, broken up into pieces, if using.

4. Without breaking the paratha, fold the edge of the paratha closest to you about 1/2 inch over the filling鈥檚 edge and repeat for the 3 remaining sides until you have a square.

5. Heat 1 1/2 teaspoons ghee or oil in a small nonstick skillet over medium. Lift the parchment and carefully slide the paratha into the skillet. Cook until the bottom is a light golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes.

6. Using a wide silicone spatula, gently flip the pizza so the filling doesn鈥檛 run out. Cook until the other side is browned and filling is set, another 3 to 4 minutes. Move pizza to a serving plate. Repeat with the remaining parathas, filling each with the same ingredients and adding 1 teaspoon oil to the skillet for each pizza as you go.

7. To serve, flip pizza so that the exposed side is down, and cut each into nine squares, slicing in 2 initial rows, turning and slicing again into 2 rows (like tic-tac-toe). Serve immediately with ketchup and hot pepper sauce for dipping.

Hilib Sambuus (Fried Beef Dumplings)

Sambuus are a Somali relative of Indian samosas; the two fried dumplings are separated by sea and likely related by trade. While hilib generally means meat in Somali, hilib sambuus are often filled with spiced ground beef. But chicken, tuna and more seafood variations exist; salmon sambuus are beloved by the Somali diaspora of the Pacific Northwest. If you have time, making sambuus pastry from scratch is ideal, but you can buy premade wraps at the grocery store, or utilize tortillas, as this recipe does, for an even quicker process. Store-bought tortillas are cheaper, faster and preferred by many working-class diaspora families for getting sambuus made quickly, which is ideal during Ramadan, when they are widely popular. While they are delicious on their own, you can pair them with Somali-style hot sauce, if you鈥檇 like some optional heat.

By Ifrah F. Ahmed

Yield: 20 sambuus

Total time: 1 hour

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 medium white onion, diced
• 4 to 5 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 pound ground beef
• 1 handful cilantro leaves, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
• 1/2 cup/64 grams all-purpose flour
• 5 burrito-size (9-inch-wide) tortillas
• Canola oil, as needed for frying
• Basbaas Cagaar (Green Hot Sauce), for serving (optional, recipe on NYT Cooking)

Preparation

1. In a medium nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium-high. Add the onion and cook until soft, stirring occasionally, 6 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until soft, about 2 minutes. Next, add the beef and brown it, breaking down the bigger clumps of meat as it cooks, about 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in cilantro, cumin, coriander and salt.

2. In a small bowl, make a paste using the flour and 1/2 cup water. Next, cut each tortilla into 4 quarters, creating 20 triangular wedges. To make the tortilla pieces pliable, warm 6 or 7 pieces at a time in the microwave for about 10 seconds (or in the oven at 350 degrees).

3. On a clean surface, grab one cut tortilla piece and position the round end closest to you. Form a cone shape by taking the tip at the bottom left and folding it up and over to meet the right edge slightly higher than its middle. Using your finger, brush a little flour paste over the top surface of the folded piece. Lift the bottom right tip of the tortilla and bring it up to cover the folded flap, creating a cone shape. Holding the cone in one hand, fill it with 2 tablespoons of beef filling. Tuck the inner flap to cover and seal in the filling, brush flour paste on the top surface covering the filling and then seal the sambuus by folding the top flap down and pressing to seal, creating a triangular shape. Use the flour paste to fill in gaps. Set on a baking sheet and repeat this process until all of the filling has been used.

4. Pour 1/2 inch canola oil into a large, deep skillet and heat over medium-high. Once the oil is shimmering hot (you can flick in a small amount of the flour paste and see if it sputters), fry 4 to 6 sambuus at a time until golden brown and crispy, about 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer sambuus to a paper towel-lined plate to catch excess grease. Serve hot crispy sambuus right away, with hot sauce, if using.

Tips

Sambuus are best eaten right after frying, when they鈥檙e still hot and crisp. However, if making ahead, you can freeze the uncooked sambuus after assembly, then thaw and fry at your convenience. Frozen sambuus can last several months.

MAINS

These technique-driven recipes allow the best qualities of any protein to shine.

Crispy Suya-Spiced Salmon

Traditionally used to season grilled meat skewers in Nigeria, suya spice (also called yaji) is a spicy peanut-based blend that brings a bold, layered flavor to anything you are throwing on the grill — and it has plenty of other uses, too. Here, the coarsely ground peanuts in the suya meld with panko to give the crunchiest crust to roasted salmon while adding a Nigerian spin. Using a bit of oil helps the panko mixture cling to the fillets, creating a crispy, flavorful dish that pairs perfectly with rice and a fresh cucumber and tomato salad.

By Kiano Moju

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients

For the suya spice coating:

• 1/4 cup roasted unsalted peanuts
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1 teaspoon granulated garlic
• 1/2 teaspoon granulated onion
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
• 1/4 cup panko bread crumbs
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tablespoon olive oil or softened butter

For the salmon:

• 4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets (skin-on or skinless)
• Kosher salt and black pepper

Preparation

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees and set a rack in the middle. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Make the suya spice coating: Combine the peanuts, ginger, paprika, granulated garlic, granulated onion, cayenne and salt in a mini food processor or blender, pulsing until the peanut bits are the size of panko bread crumbs. Tip into a small bowl. Add the panko, breaking up any large chunks with your fingertips, then stir in the minced garlic and olive oil.

3. Prep the salmon: Place the salmon, skin side down, on the baking sheet, leaving space between each fillet. Season on top with salt and pepper. Spoon the suya spice coating over the top of each salmon fillet, lightly pressing to adhere. (Don鈥檛 worry about the sides.)

4. Roast until the coating is golden brown and salmon flakes easily with a fork, about 12 minutes. Serve with your desired side dishes.

Xawaash Braised Lamb Shanks

Deeply flavorful, fork-tender braised lamb shanks don鈥檛 require much more than time. This recipe simmers the meat for three hours in a simple broth that抖阴ap flavored with garlic, cilantro and xawaash spice. It cooks down into a thick, glossy gravy to coat the succulent meat. This recipe reimagines the common way this dish is cooked while maintaining the traditional Somali flavor profile that makes it a familiar classic. Serve over plain white rice or with roasted potatoes and a salad.

By Ifrah F. Ahmed

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 3 1/4 hours

Ingredients

• 2 lamb shanks (about 2 1/2 pounds)
• 2 teaspoons fine sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon xawaash (see Tip)
• 10 whole garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 large white onion, peeled and diced
• 1/2 cup cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

Preparation

1. Coat lamb shanks with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few cranks of black pepper; set aside.

2. In a large pot over medium-high heat, warm up olive oil until it shimmers. When the oil is hot, lightly sear lamb shanks on both sides, about 30 to 60 seconds per side. Add the xawaash, garlic, onion, cilantro and the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons salt; cover with about 9 cups of water (or until lamb shanks are completely covered).

3. Bring to a boil over high, turn down the heat to medium, cover and cook for 3 hours. (Be sure to periodically check the water level, adding water as needed to ensure the meat stays submerged for the first two hours of cooking time.) When time is up, the meat should be very tender.

4. Gently remove the lamb shanks from the pot and place on a plate. If there is a lot of broth leftover, boil down the excess liquid over high, uncovered, for 10 minutes, until reduced to a glossy gravy. Pour this gravy on top of the lamb shanks.

5. Serve over white rice. Lamb shanks can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for 3 to 4 days.

Tips

To prepare your own xawaash blend, add 8 teaspoons ground cumin, 2 teaspoons ground coriander, 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves, 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon and 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom to a small nonstick pan. Toast over low heat, stirring continuously, for 1 minute or until the spice mix becomes fragrant, then stir in 1 teaspoon ground turmeric. Makes 4 tablespoons.

Baked Tofu With Peanut Sauce and Coconut-Lime Rice

A spicy, fragrant peanut sauce reminiscent of the groundnut stews that are popular across West Africa anchors this recipe. Any protein would be lucky to be doused and marinated in it, but tofu soaks up the peanut sauce鈥檚 flavors and chars up nicely upon roasting. The tofu鈥檚 neutral flavor allows the other flavors in the dish to break through. Red miso and fish sauce provide umami, honey lends a subtle sweetness and the lime zest in the coconut rice brightens it all. Finished with pickled peppers and fresh sliced scallions, this dish comes together to make an exciting but quick weeknight dinner.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 25 minutes

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil, plus more for brushing the pan and drizzling
• 2/3 cup lime juice (from about 5 limes), and zest of 1 lime
• Kosher salt
• 8 baby bell peppers or 1 medium bell pepper (any color will do), stemmed and thinly sliced lengthwise
• Black pepper
• 1 cup long-grain rice like jasmine or basmati
• 1/2 cup full-fat coconut milk
• 1 cup smooth, natural peanut butter
• 1 tablespoon red miso
• 1 tablespoon grated ginger
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce (optional)
• 2 teaspoons chopped habanero pepper, stem and seeds removed, or 1 tablespoon sambal
• 2 tablespoons buckwheat honey or molasses
• 2 (14-ounce) packages extra-firm tofu, drained and sliced crosswise, 1/4-inch thick
• 3 cups peppery greens, like arugula, mizuna or baby mustard greens
• 2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced

Preparation

1. Heat the oven to 450 degrees and lightly brush a large rimmed sheet pan with oil.

2. In a small bowl, stir 4 tablespoons lime juice with 1/2 teaspoon salt until salt dissolves. Add the sliced peppers, a few cracks of black pepper and set aside.

3. In a small pot, combine the rice with 1 cup water and the coconut milk. Season with salt and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook over medium-low until the rice is just tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit, covered, until ready to serve.

4. In a medium bowl, whisk 4 tablespoons lime juice with the peanut butter, miso, ginger, fish sauce (if using), habanero, 2 tablespoons oil, 1 tablespoon honey and 3/4 cup water. Stir until smooth and season to taste with salt.

5. Arrange the tofu pieces in a single layer on the oiled baking sheet and season with salt. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of the peanut sauce over each, covering the top and allowing the sauce to run down and coat the sides. Drizzle the tops with some oil, and roast until glaze is set, deep brown and caramelized along the edges, 18 to 20 minutes. Add the remaining lime juice and 1 tablespoon honey to the leftover peanut sauce in the bowl to make the dressing; set aside.

6. Divide the greens among bowls. Add the lime zest and half the sliced scallions to the rice, then fluff with a fork. Top the greens with the rice, then the tofu. Spoon the peanut dressing over everything, and garnish with the drained pickled peppers and remaining sliced scallions.

Tips

Peanut sauce can be made 2 to 3 days in advance and stored refrigerated until ready to use.

Smashed Beef Kebab With Cucumber Yogurt

This quick skillet dinner of spiced, seared ground beef over cooling yogurt combines elements of two Persian classics: kebab koobideh (grilled kebabs) and mast-o-khiar (cucumber yogurt). The creamy yogurt base keeps close to the original, while the ground beef is hard-seared on one side like a scallop for a crisp texture. Walnuts and raisins, traditionally toppings for mast-o-khiar, get toasted in the beef fat, adding crunch and sweetness to balance the savory meat and tangy yogurt.

By Zaynab Issa

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 25 minutes

Ingredients

• 2 cups full-fat or low-fat Greek yogurt (about 16 ounces)
• 2 mini cucumbers (about 1/2 pound), grated on the large holes of a box grater
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped mint, plus mint leaves for serving
• 1 large garlic clove, finely grated
• 1 pound ground beef (preferably 80% lean) or ground lamb
• 1 small yellow onion, grated on the large holes of a box grater (see Tips)
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup walnut halves or pieces, or both (see Tips)
• 2 tablespoons raisins or dried cranberries
• Pomegranate molasses, optional, for serving
• Warmed pita or white rice, for serving

Preparation

1. Add the yogurt, cucumbers, chopped mint and garlic to a medium bowl. Mix well to combine. Chill until ready to serve.

2. Add the beef, onion, turmeric, 1 teaspoon of salt and lots of black pepper to a second medium bowl and mix well to combine.

3. Heat a large well-seasoned cast-iron skillet (or other large heavy-bottomed pan) over medium-high. Once the skillet is very hot, divide beef into large, irregular chunks by using two spoons or your hands and drop into the skillet. Cook, undisturbed, until charred and crisp on the underside and browned at least halfway up the sides, 6 to 8 minutes.

4. Using a wooden spoon, toss the meat, breaking up any very large pieces. Add the walnuts and raisins and continue to cook, stirring often, until the meat is cooked to desired doneness and the walnuts are toasted, 2 to 3 minutes more.

5. Remove the yogurt from the fridge and season with the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt. Spread the yogurt on the bottom of a serving platter and top with the crispy meat. Finish with a drizzle of pomegranate molasses, if using, and garnish with mint leaves. Serve with warmed pita or rice.

Tips

To minimize eye irritation while grating, use a chilled onion.

Two tablespoons of pistachios or pine nuts can be substituted for the walnuts.

Citrus-Glazed Pork Chops With Gingery Bok Choy

Rich pork makes a perfect companion to tart oranges in this tasty weeknight meal. The bold, bright, citrusy sauce demands a robust cut of meat, so pick well-marbled, thick-cut pork chops with a nice fat cap. A dry rub of brown sugar creates a caramelized layer that lends depth to the pan sauce, and the gingery bok choy adds a delightful bit of freshness. This is quite a meal on its own, but you can steam some brown or white rice for a starchy side. Slice the pork to serve, and drizzle the pan sauce over everything.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

Ingredients

• 1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
• Kosher salt and black pepper
• 1 pound large or baby bok choy
• 2 tablespoons neutral oil, like canola or grapeseed, plus more as needed
• 3 (1 1/2-inch-thick) bone-in pork loin chops (about 2 1/2 pounds)
• 1 1/2 tablespoons light brown sugar
• 1 whole orange, cut in half crosswise, seeds removed, plus 3/4 cup fresh orange juice
• 4 shallots, peeled and quartered
• 4 garlic cloves, smashed

Preparation

1. In a medium bowl, combine the ginger and rice vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

2. Trim the bok choy and cut into 3- to 4-inch pieces, if large, or cut down the middle lengthwise, if using baby bok choy. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add the bok choy to the pan, cut-side down, if using baby bok choy, and sear on one side until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add additional oil, if necessary. Flip to cook on the other side until just tender, about 1 minute. Transfer bok choy to the ginger marinade and toss to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.

3. Rub both sides of the pork chops with the brown sugar and season generously with salt. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the skillet over medium heat. Arrange chops and orange halves in the skillet, cut-side down. Sear one side of the pork (without moving it) until deep brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Flip the pork but leave the orange undisturbed. Cook on medium-low until the pork is browned on both sides and the orange halves are charred, 4 to 5 minutes. Move the orange to a serving platter and the pork to a plate.

4. Add the shallots and garlic to skillet and cook until softened and starting to brown, about 3 minutes. Add all the pork chops and any accumulated juices back to the pan, overlapping if necessary. Add the orange juice and 1/4 cup water. Bring the liquid to a simmer, swirling the pan to release any bits stuck to the bottom. Cover and cook for 3 minutes, then uncover and cook until the pork is cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the cooked chops to a board and allow the sauce to continue cooking until reduced and sticky, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat.

5. Transfer the bok choy to the serving platter. Slice the pork and transfer to the platter along with any accumulated juices from the meat. Spoon the pan sauce and squeeze the caramelized orange halves over the top.

Iwuk Edesi (One-Pot Rice With Chicken)

Preparing this rice and chicken one-pot meal from 鈥淢y Everyday Lagos: Nigerian Cooking at Home and in the Diaspora鈥� by Yewande Komolafe (Ten Speed Press, 2023) is an experience: the rich fragrances of these ingredients will slowly fill your kitchen as the rice softens. Iwuk edesi is a dish rooted in Efik and Ibibio cuisine, a gift from the southeastern region of the country. It is often found on buka menus and is sometimes called 鈥渘ative rice.鈥� If you use another type of meat, the cooking times may differ, but the method essentially stays the same. This is a solid stand-alone meal, best enjoyed straight off the stove, but is equally satisfying the next day as leftovers.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Total time: About 1 hour 10 minutes

Ingredients

For the Pepper Paste:

• 1 to 2 yellow or red Scotch bonnet chiles or red habanero chiles
• 1 tablespoon whole crayfish or dried shrimp, soaked in warm water for 10 minutes until plump, then drained, or 1/2 tablespoon ground crayfish
• 1/4 teaspoon fresh or dried ir煤, soaked in warm water for 10 minutes and drained

For the Chicken and Rice:

• 1/4 cup neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed
• 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken parts
• Fine salt to taste
• 1 tablespoon grated ginger
• 2 garlic cloves, smashed
• 1/2 cup red palm oil
• 2 cups long-grain white rice
• 2 1/4 cups chicken stock
• 4 cups torn hearty greens, such as ugwu, mature spinach, collards or kale
• 1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced

Preparation

1. Make the pepper paste: Working in batches if necessary, use a mortar and pestle to combine the Scotch bonnet chiles and crayfish. Pound to a coarse paste. Add the ir煤 and pound further until incorporated to a smooth paste. Alternatively, do this step in a food processor and pulse to combine the ingredients until finely chopped. The pepper paste can be stored in an airtight container refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 1 month.

2. Prepare the chicken and rice: In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium until shimmering, 1 to 2 minutes. Pat the chicken pieces dry and season both sides generously with salt. Working in batches, if necessary, place the chicken pieces skin side down in the pot and sear until deep golden brown on both sides, about 12 minutes total. (The chicken will not be cooked through.) Move the seared pieces to a plate and set aside.

3. Drain all but 2 tablespoons oil. Add the ginger and garlic, and stir until fragrant. Stir in the palm oil and pepper paste, and then the rice. Stir to coat every grain of rice in the seasoned oil. Add the stock. Scrape the bottom of the pot to loosen up any stuck bits, season with salt, and bring to a simmer.

4. Transfer the chicken to the pot skin side up, along with any liquid from the plate. Reduce heat to low. Cover and cook until the liquid is absorbed, the rice is tender, and the chicken is cooked through, about 18 to 20 minutes. Stir in the greens and allow to wilt and soften, 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit covered for another 10 minutes. Carefully fluff the rice with a fork. Divide the rice and chicken among plates, sprinkle on the red onion, and serve warm.

Tips

Ir煤, a fermented locust bean product frequently used in West African cooking, can be found as a ground powder or whole beans in the spice aisles of any African grocer. Possible alternatives are fish sauce or fermented black beans.

Roasted Shrimp With Okra and Tomatoes

In the South, okra and tomatoes are the crown jewels of the summer. Frying is the most common preparation for okra but roasting also brings the best out of these two favorites; tomatoes become sweeter and okra softens, developing a deeper savoriness brought forward by a simple seasoning of salt and pepper. Shrimp brings the dish to a new level: The smoked paprika and oregano are a perfect foil to the shrimp鈥檚 own natural, delicate flavor, and, swirled together with the olive oil and tomato juice in the pan, the result is a meal with the makings of a stew with a fraction of the time and effort. It truly tastes like a warm, summer, Sunday evening. When choosing okra, go for the smaller to medium sized pods. The bigger the okra, the more likely it is to be stringy and tough. Serve with cooked rice or atop angel hair pasta.

By Kia Damon

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 25 minutes

Ingredients

• 1 pound (21 to 30 count) peeled and deveined shrimp (tails on)
• 2 tablespoons dried oregano
• 1/2 tablespoon smoked paprika
• Salt and black pepper
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 pound small to medium okra, trimmed
• 1 pint cherry tomatoes
• Lemon wedges, for serving

Preparation

1. Heat the oven to 450 degrees and line a sheet pan with aluminum foil. In a medium bowl, combine the shrimp, oregano, smoked paprika, a few pinches of salt and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Mix well and set aside.

2. Add the okra and tomatoes to the pan, season with salt and several cracks of black pepper, then drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil over top. Mix well, spread evenly then place on the top rack of the oven. Roast until the okra is softened and the tomatoes are soft and have released their juices, about 15 minutes.

3. Take the pan out of the oven, put the tomatoes and okra in a large bowl, then spread the shrimp evenly on the same pan and toss to coat in the pan juices. Return the pan to the oven and roast until the shrimp are cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes.

4. Remove the shrimp from the oven, then toss with the okra and tomatoes, along with any pan juices. Taste for salt. Serve on a large platter and finish with a squeeze of lemon.

SIDES

Vegetables add crisp freshness to the meal and act as vessels for the juices on your plate.

脠f峄嵦� R铆r貌 (Stewed Amaranth Greens)

Efo riro is a rich vegetable side dish that can accompany various starches and can be cooked with or without fish or meat. It is rich enough that the starches it accompanies — various pounded starches called fufu, fluffy steamed rice, boiled plantains or yams, to name a few 鈥� can come very much unadorned. While the leafy, hearty amaranth greens form the traditional base, mature spinach is a great substitute, and, though rare in Nigerian cuisine, collards or kale can also be used. It is crucial to blanch fresh greens and squeeze out as much liquid as possible before adding to the obe ata base of pur茅ed tomatoes, peppers and onions. If using frozen greens, defrost ahead of time and repeat the squeezing process. The last thing you want to do is dilute all those incredible flavors you鈥檝e spent time building.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Total time: 1 hour

Ingredients

For the obe ata:

• 1 (14-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes with their juices
• 1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and roughly chopped
• 1/2 medium red onion, peeled and roughly chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 red habanero chile, stemmed
• 2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil

For the efo riro:

• Kosher salt
• 3 pounds fresh amaranth greens (also known as tete or callaloo) or mature spinach, or 2 pounds frozen whole-leaf spinach, thawed
• 2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
• 1 medium onion, peeled and minced
• 1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and chopped
• 1 tablespoon dried crayfish or 2 tablespoons tiny dried shrimp
• 1 tablespoon fermented locust beans (or fermented black beans), rinsed, soaked in warm water for 10 minutes to rehydrate, then drained
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 tablespoon red palm oil
• 3 smoked mackerel or smoked white fish fillets (about 3 ounces each), skin and bones removed and fillets flaked (about 1 1/2 cups)

Preparation

1. Combine all the obe ata ingredients except the canola oil in a blender and pur茅e on high until smooth, working in batches if needed. The liquid from the can of tomatoes should suffice, but you can add up to 1/4 cup of water if necessary to get the pur茅e going. (You should have about 3 cups of pur茅e.)

2. Heat the canola oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high. Add the pur茅e and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium, cover and simmer until the sauce is slightly reduced by about a third of its original volume, 18 to 20 minutes. (It should make about 2 cups.)

3. Meanwhile, if using fresh greens, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high and prepare an ice bath in a large bowl. (You can skip this blanching step if using frozen spinach.) Pick the leaves off the bunch of amaranth greens, if using, and discard the tough stems. Once the water is boiling, blanch the leaves until bright green and just tender, about 2 minutes. (You can work in batches if necessary.) Cool greens immediately by transferring to the ice bath using a slotted spoon.

4. In a large, deep skillet or saut茅 pan, heat the canola oil over medium-high. Saut茅 the onion and bell pepper until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the dried crayfish, fermented locust beans and turmeric. Saut茅 until fragrant, about 1 minute, lowering the heat if necessary to avoid scorching.

5. Stir in the obe ata and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until sauce thickens slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and stir in the red palm oil. Cook for 1 more minute.

6. Remove the greens from the ice bath and squeeze out as much water as you can. (You want the greens to be as dry as possible so you don鈥檛 dilute the vibrant flavors of the sauce.) If using frozen greens, squeeze out any excess liquid before using.

7. Add the greens to the skillet and stir to coat with the sauce. Gently stir in the flaked fish. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the greens and fish are warmed through, 4 to 5 minutes. Season with salt to taste.

Jollof Rice

A successful batch of jollof rice requires a few key ingredients (tomatoes, peppers, onions, a few herbs, spices and some stock) and a perfect sauce-to-rice ratio, so the cooked grains remain separate. I have found that the best, no-fuss way to do this is in the oven. Jollof is typically made with long-grain rice, though in Nigeria, parboiled rice is the norm. Most jollof is prepared over an open flame or on a stovetop. Missing from this oven version is the slightly smoky flavor you get from the little bits of rice that have browned on the bottom of your pan, but that抖阴ap nothing a pinch of smoked paprika can鈥檛 fix. Serve with braised goat or other stewed meats, and a side of fried plantains.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Total time: 1 1/2 hours

Ingredients

For the obe ata:

• 1 (14-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes with their juices
• 1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and roughly chopped
• 1/2 medium red onion, peeled and roughly chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 red habanero chile, stemmed
• 2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil

For the jollof rice:

• 1/2 cup canola or other neutral oil
• 2 medium red onions, peeled, halved and thinly sliced
• 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika (optional)
• 3 cups parboiled long-grain rice (such as Carolina Gold or Uncle Ben鈥檚 Original), basmati or jasmine rice (about 1 1/4 pounds)
• 5 fresh thyme sprigs
• 1 fresh bay leaf
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 cups beef, chicken or vegetable stock

Preparation

1. Prepare the obe ata: Working in batches if needed, combine all the obe ata ingredients except the canola oil in a blender and pur茅e on high until smooth. The liquid from the can of tomatoes should suffice, but you can add up to 1/4 cup of water if necessary to get the pur茅e going. (You should have about 3 cups of pur茅e.)

2. Heat the 2 tablespoons canola oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high. Add the pur茅e and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium, cover and simmer until the sauce is slightly reduced by about a third of its original volume, 18 to 20 minutes. (It should make about 2 cups. Obe ata can be cooled and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks, or frozen for up to 1 month.)

3. Prepare the rice: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat the 1/2 cup canola oil in a large Dutch oven over medium until shimmering, about 1 minute. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove half the onions to a plate and set aside. Add the garlic and saut茅 until fragrant and translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato paste, turmeric and smoked paprika, if using, and toast, stirring occasionally, until turmeric is fragrant and tomato paste has deepened to a dark red color, about 2 minutes.

4. Stir in the obe ata sauce and bring to a simmer over medium heat. The habanero oils love to disperse in the air, so you may want to turn on your stovetop fan or open a window while simmering the obe ata. Stir in the rice, thyme and bay leaf, and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the stock and cover with a lid. Transfer the pot to the oven and cook until rice is just tender, 35 minutes.

5. Remove the pot from the oven and let sit, covered (no peeking) for 15 minutes. Uncover, fluff the rice with a fork and stir in the reserved saut茅ed onions. Adjust seasoning, if necessary, and discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Serve warm.

Roasted Carrots With Yaji Spice Relish

A fragrant combination of dried spices and aromatics, yaji, also known as suya spice, is as ubiquitous as salt and pepper in homes across northern Nigeria and West Africa more broadly. Often used to cure meats and finish other dishes, the spice blend is made depending on taste and access to ingredients, so the recipe can range from home to home and vendor to vendor. Common among blends is the addition of a warming chile powder, ground ginger (although fresh is used in some cases) and pulverized peanuts. Here, a basic yaji spice blend is incorporated into a fresh, piquant relish of scallions, lemon zest and juice as a finish to liven up roast vegetables.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 50 minutes

Ingredients

• 4 pounds carrots, scrubbed, cut into 3- to 4-inch pieces, halved lengthwise if thick
• 1/4 cup neutral oil, such as grapeseed or vegetable oil
• Kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
• 1 (1 1/2-inch) piece fresh ginger, scrubbed
• 1 cup thinly sliced scallions (from about 5 scallions)
• 2 lemons
• 1 tablespoon roasted peanut oil (optional)
• 1 tablespoon yaji spice (see Tip)
• 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
• 1/4 cup toasted unsalted peanuts, roughly chopped

Preparation

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Toss the carrots with 2 tablespoons oil, and season lightly with salt. Spread in an even layer on 2 baking sheets and roast until vegetables are tender and caramelized in spots, about 40 minutes, rotating sheet pans once halfway through the cooking process.

2. As the carrots roast, make the relish: Grate the ginger into a large bowl and add the sliced scallions. Zest 1 lemon over the bowl, and squeeze in the juice from 1 1/2 lemons. (Reserve the other half for serving.) Stir to combine. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Stir in the roasted peanut oil (if using), the yaji spice, paprika and parsley. Stir to combine, then taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

3. While the vegetables are still warm, gently toss in the large bowl to coat with the relish. Transfer to a platter, and scatter the toasted peanuts over the top. Serve with reserved lemon half, if you like.

Tips

To make about 1/4 cup yaji spice blend, combine 1/4 cup toasted peanuts, 1 tablespoon ground ginger, 2 teaspoons smoked paprika, 2 teaspoons onion powder, 1 teaspoon garlic powder and 1 teaspoon fine sea salt. Pulse in a spice grinder, or use a mortar and pestle to make a fine powder. Store in an airtight container for up to a month.

Caramelized Plantains With Beans, Scallions and Lemon

Bright and earthy flavors complement each another in this easy dish in which cooked beans are tossed with lemon zest, olive oil and cayenne, and roasted sweet plantains are coated in a brown sugar, ginger and lemon glaze. Go with ripe plantains for this recipe, yellow and spotted with large black dots. You鈥檒l need your oven鈥檚 broiler setting to help caramelize the sugary coating on the plantains, and to char the scallion garnish. This dish is the perfect breakfast topped with a jammy egg, a quick lunch over a bed of fresh greens, or a satisfying side to roast chicken.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 1 hour

Ingredients

• 2 1/4 pounds ripe plantains (about 4 medium), yellow and spotted with large black dots
• 6 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling
• 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
• 1 lemon, zested and juiced, plus more as needed
• 1 3/4 cups or 1 (15-ounce) can drained cooked beans, such as navy, cannellini, black-eyed peas or butter beans
• 1/4 cup minced red onion
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne
• 2 bunches scallions (about 10 to 12 scallions), trimmed
• Kosher salt
• 1/4 cup fresh dill fronds
• 1/4 cup fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems

Preparation

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Leaving the plantain skin on, cut each plantain in half, lengthwise down the middle. Place the plantains cut-side up on a baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil and bake until tender, and a skewer or knife inserted goes all the way through, about 40 minutes. Remove the plantains and set the broiler to high with a rack 6 to 8 inches from the heat source.

2. While the plantains are baking, in a small bowl, combine the brown sugar, ginger and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice. Whisk to dissolve the brown sugar, then stir in 2 tablespoons of olive oil.

3. In a large bowl, combine the beans, minced onion and cayenne with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice and 1 tablespoon lemon zest. Toss and set aside.

4. Once cool enough to handle, about 5 minutes, remove the plantain skins and discard. Break each plantain into pieces, about 2 to 3 inches long, and place back on the baking sheet. Drizzle the plantains with the brown sugar mixture and toss to coat. Move the plantains to one side of the baking sheet. Lay the trimmed scallions on the empty side of the sheet and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Rub the oil into the scallions to coat evenly. Season the entire sheet with salt.

5. Broil the plantains and scallions until the glaze is set and deeply caramelized in spots, and the scallions are charred along the length of each, about 5 to 12 minutes, rotating halfway through. If the plantains are at risk of burning, pull the plantains from the oven before the scallions have finished.

6. Move the scallions to a board, chop and add to the bowl with the beans. Season the beans with salt, toss to combine and transfer to a serving platter.

7. Top the beans with the glazed plantains. Garnish with fresh dill, cilantro and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve over a bed of greens, as a vegetarian side, or topped with a jammy egg.

M峄峣n-M峄峣n for a Gathering (Savory Bean Pudding)

Thick and soft, this pudding of 岷固�w脿 ol贸yin (a mildly sweet bean), onions, bell peppers and chiles gently cradles boiled eggs and smoked fish. In Yor霉b谩, one of the languages spoken across West Africa, the garnishes for this dish are often called 岷筸i (lives or spirits), and can range from three to seven add-ons, such as chopped bits of cooked meat or fresh prawns. Wrapped in fragrant ew茅 m峄峣n-m峄峣n (banana leaves are a good alternative) and steamed, the bean batter and garnishes hold their robust flavors like a surprise gift. Dried crayfish and red palm oil are folded into the batter to add richness, and a whisked egg ensures a firmly set texture for this large-format version of m峄峣n-m峄峣n, which sometimes come in smaller cone-shaped, leaf-wrapped packages. Serve cut into wedges or scooped alongside jollof rice and 猫f峄嵦� r铆r貌 or any leafy green stew.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: About 12 moin moin

Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus soaking

Ingredients

• 2 cups whole dried honey beans or store-bought peeled black-eyed peas (see Tip)
• 1 pound frozen banana leaves, defrosted, for steaming
• 2 roasted red bell peppers from a jar, drained, stemmed and seeded
• 1 small red onion, peeled and quartered
• 1 red Scotch bonnet or habanero chile, stemmed
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
• 1/2 cup grapeseed oil
• 1 cup roasted mushrooms with ata din din, for filling (optional)

Preparation

1. Place the beans in a medium bowl and cover with up to 2 inches of room temperature water. Soak the beans for 45 minutes to 1 hour or until plump and the peel comes right off when you rub a bean between your palms.

2. Meanwhile, cut the banana leaves into 11- to 13-inch squares (depending on the width of your leaves). Save any trimmings to line the pot. Wipe the leaves clean with a damp towel. Place a stockpot or 10-inch Dutch oven on the stove and line the entire bottom with up to two layers of banana leaf trimmings. (It抖阴ap OK if some of the leaves come up the sides slightly.) Pour 2 cups water in the bottom of the pot, underneath the leaf layer.

3. Peel all the beans: Skip this step if you are using peeled black-eyed peas, but discard the soaking liquid. Fill the bowl with more water, grab a handful of beans and, working in the water, rub the beans between your palms. The peels will come right off and float above the beans. (The extra water will help provide an area for the skins to collect away from the beans.) Holding back the beans with one hand, pour the water and the peels into a colander set inside the kitchen sink. Discard the peels. Again fill the bowl with water to cover by several inches, peel and drain. Repeat this step up to 4 more times until about 95% of the beans are peeled.

4. Working in batches if necessary and using some of all the ingredients in each batch, transfer the peeled beans, roasted red peppers, onion and Scotch bonnet to a blender and pur茅e with 1 3/4 cups water until smooth. The pur茅e should be the consistency similar to a loose, whipped hummus. Transfer to a bowl and add the salt, garlic powder and onion powder. Mix in the oil.

5. To shape the banana leaves for filling, working one square at a time, make a cone by lifting the bottom left corner toward the center, creating a straight vertical line that should line up with the center of the leaf. With your finger holding the center in place, hold up the leaf and use your other hand to fold the bottom right corner of the leaf over the left fold. You should now have a cone shape with a closed, pointy bottom and an open top. Tighten the cone by pulling the right edge over until the bottom is closed. Fold about 1 1/2 inches of the pointy bottom back and upward, sealing the bottom of the cone completely. Line any tears on the inside of the cone with little pieces of leaf trimming. Hold the cone in an upright position with your finger on the folded bottom to keep the bottom edge sealed.

6. Fill the cone by scooping in 1/2 cup of the bean pur茅e. Add a heaped tablespoon of the roasted mushroom mix on top, if using. Place the filled cone upright in the prepared stockpot, sealed side down, leaving the tops open and leaning the cones up against the edge of the pot and one another to keep them sealed. Repeat this folding and filling step until all the pur茅e is used up and the filled cones are all upright in the pot. If there is too much room in the pot, use the scrap pieces of banana leaves to fill the extra space and to keep the cones upright and sealed. Cover the top of the pot with several leaves (no need to trim them if there鈥檚 overhang) to keep the steam within the pot and place the lid on top.

7. Set the heat to medium and steam the moin moin until firm, about 25 to 30 minutes. You can test for doneness by taking one out, unwrapping and cutting through the middle. There should be no loose, raw batter, and the moin moin should be set firm. Allow the moin moin to sit in the covered pot for 15 minutes off heat to set up a bit more and to cool slightly. Transfer the wrapped cones to a baking sheet or serving platter. Unwrap and serve warm, by itself or alongside jollof rice, efo riro and dodo.

Tips

Honey beans, also known as ewa oloyin in Yoruba, can be found at any West African market. To get the peels off honey beans, soak in room temperature water for at least 45 minutes and no longer than 1 hour and follow the directions given in Step 3. For convenience, peeled beans (usually black-eyed peas) are also available in West African markets. If using peeled black-eyed peas, soak the beans in room temperature water to rehydrate for 1 hour and up to 4 hours.

Bur岷固乨矛 脕g岷固�g岷� (Soft Pull-Apart Rolls)

Slightly sweet, plush and tender, this yeast-risen bread is often dipped and dragged through saucy dishes, used as a vessel to deliver food to the mouth. In Lagos, Nigeria, it is known as 谩g岷固�g岷� bread, named for the large industrial bakery that relocated to the city of 脕g岷固�g岷� in the 1960s to sell hot loaves to eager commuters. Here, the buns provide a smaller, portable version of the loaf. The dense yet cloudlike bread is dipped in milk tea, sandwiched with akara (fried bean fritters) or served alongside any soup or stew. For this recipe, protein-rich milk powder, along with eggs and cold butter, provide the structure and fat that creates the bread鈥檚 signature richness. Kneading, either by hand or using a stand mixer, is also essential for its structure. Any shape pan (round, square or rectangular) that抖阴ap 8 to 10 inches in diameter or length can be used here. After the final brushing of softened butter, you can top the warm rolls with flakes of sea salt or a drizzle of honey.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 12 to 16 servings

Total Time: 5 hours, 10 minutes

Ingredients

• 1 cup/240 grams lukewarm water or milk (98 to 105 degrees)
• 1 tablespoon/14 grams active dry yeast
• 1/3 cup/67 grams sugar
• 4 cups/515 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for sprinkling
• 3/4 cup/58 grams nonfat dry milk powder
• 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
• 1 large egg, whisked
• 6 tablespoons/84 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus 1 to 2 tablespoons for greasing pan and brushing rolls
• Large-flake sea salt or honey, optional, for sprinkling and drizzling

Preparation

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the warm water, yeast and sugar. Whisk together to dissolve the sugar and let sit undisturbed until foamy (yeast granules will expand, forming a cap that will resemble a cappuccino鈥檚 foam), about 10 minutes.

2. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, milk powder, allspice and salt.

3. Once the yeast is foamy, stir the egg into the yeast mixture and, using a silicone spatula, add in the flour mixture all at once and mix until combined. Add the butter and stir using a wooden spoon until the dough is shaggy (damp and surrounded by pockets of flour), 2 to 3 minutes.

4. Transfer the bowl to the stand mixer fitted with a dough hook and set to low speed. Knead the dough, intermittently stopping the mixer to scrape down the hook and sides and gather the dough back in the center of the bowl, until smooth and tacky but not too sticky to handle, 13 to 14 minutes. (Kneading develops gluten strands, giving the dough a springiness and a chewy mochi-like result).

5. Remove the hook, and use your hands to shape the dough into a smooth ball. Move dough to a large clean metal bowl and cover with a kitchen towel. Let stand undisturbed until doubled in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. (Dough can be left to rise, covered and refrigerated, for 9 hours and up to 2 days. Once ready to bake, remove dough from the refrigerator, proceed with the steps below.)

6. Generously butter the bottom and sides of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and set aside. Punch the dough to deflate and transfer to a clean work surface sprinkled with flour to prevent sticking. Use a sharp knife to cut the dough into 24 even-size pieces (about 40 to 45 grams/1.6 ounces each). It抖阴ap OK if you end up with fewer or more here. Use your thumb to create a dimple in the center of each piece of dough and cover the dough balls with a kitchen towel to rest for about 10 minutes.

7. Shape each piece by placing it on the floured work surface, dimple side up. Stretch any corners over and up toward the center. Flip dough so that the folded edges lay seam side down on your work surface. Keep the other pieces of dough covered as you work.

8. Cup your palm on top of the dough portion, and move the dough in a circular motion while pressing down slightly. Keep your hand cupped and your thumb steady around the edge of your palm to control the movement. You should have a tight ball with the seam side tucked and sealed. Transfer each ball, seam side down, onto the buttered baking pan, about 1/2 inch apart. Repeat this rolling step until all the dough pieces have been rolled and placed in the pan.

9. Cover the pan with a clean dish towel and allow the dough to rise again until it抖阴ap just slightly above the edge of the pan, 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on your kitchen temperature.

10. Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Place racks in the center and bottom of your oven. Slide a rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack of the oven, and pour a cup of water in it to create some steam. Transfer the 9-by-13-inch baking dish to the center rack of the oven.

11. Bake until the top of the rolls are pale toward the center and brown at the edges, 15 to 20 minutes. Rotate the baking pan, add another 1 cup water to the steam pan, if necessary, and continue to bake until the rolls begin to sound hollow when the surface is tapped, 15 to 20 minutes more. The rolls will pull away slightly from the pan, and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center should read 185 to 200 degrees.

12. Remove the rolls from the oven and allow the bread to cool slightly in the pan, 8 to 10 minutes. While still warm, brush the surface with softened butter and, if you like, sprinkle with flaky salt or drizzle with honey. Serve immediately or at room temperature, alongside milk tea, sandwiched with akara (fried bean fritters) or paired with any stew or soup.

DESSERTS

On the continent, fresh fruit often serves as a reset in between courses or after a large, rich meal. Eat it plain and juicy, or in these simple meal-ending dishes.

Spiced Coconut Tapioca Pudding With Fruit

Coconut and cassava are known for distinct qualities: Cassava, a tuber from which tapioca is made, is starchy and dense, and fresh coconut is crunchy and juicy. When eaten together, both hold complex nuances with vigor, each enabling the other to flourish. Throughout Nigeria, streetside vendors sell bags of steamed cassava chunks paired with shards of cracked, skin-on fresh coconut for snacking. Home cooks combine these two ingredients in a variety of cakes, crackers and puddings. Here, small tapioca pearls and coconut milk form a pudding version of this familiar pairing. Lemongrass, makrut lime leaves and spices steep in lightly sweetened coconut milk that infuses the tapioca as it simmers. A finishing splash of coconut cream makes for a brothy pudding. Fresh fruit, lightly toasted coconut flakes and molasses (or any syrup) top the creamy base. This is comfort in a bowl and can be enjoyed any time of the day, especially as a cool, puckery and melodic end to any flavorful meal.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Total time: 60 minutes

Ingredients

For the pudding:

• 4 fresh lemongrass stalks, trimmed, cut in 2-inch pieces and crushed with the flat side of a knife (2 loosely packed cups)
• 4 fresh or dried makrut lime leaves, 1/4 teaspoon ground makrut lime leaves, or use grated lime zest, then cut lime into wedges for serving
• 3 whole star anise
• 2 cinnamon sticks
• 1 (13 1/2-ounce/400-milliliter) can unsweetened full-fat coconut milk, shaken before opening (cups)
• 1/4 cup/60 grams sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1 cup/180 grams small or large pearl tapioca

For serving:

• 1/4 to 1/2 cup large unsweetened flake coconut or sliced almonds
• 1/2 cup/62 milliliters unsweetened coconut cream (from a 13 1/2-ounce can), shaken before opening
• 1/2 cup fresh fruit (such as passion fruit pulp with seeds, mango or other fruit of choice), diced if needed
• 1/4 cup molasses, dark honey or maple syrup

Preparation

1. Make the pudding: Place a medium pot over medium-low heat and add the lemongrass and lime leaves. (If using ground lime leaves or lime zest, add in the next step.) Add star anise and cinnamon sticks. Toast the spices, stirring frequently, until they darken slightly and become fragrant and aromatic, 7 minutes.

2. Pour in 4 cups water. Add the coconut milk, sugar, salt, black pepper and allspice. (If using ground lime leaves or lime zest, add now.) Whisk vigorously to dissolve the sugar. Bring to a simmer and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover the pot and let steep for about 20 minutes.

3. While the aromatics steep, in a medium bowl set over a fine-mesh strainer, add the tapioca and rinse with cold water, dispersing the pearls gently with your fingers. Drain the liquid and repeat again up to 10 times, until the white starch begins to collect in the bowl, about 10 minutes (the pearls may begin to break apart). Drain completely and set aside.

4. Place a small (8-inch) skillet over low heat. Add the flaked coconut or almonds if using. Toast, stirring frequently, until fragrant and beginning to turn slightly tan in color, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat but keep in the pan. The coconut will continue to toast in the pan until light golden brown (see Tip).

5. To cook tapioca, return the pot to medium heat. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to remove the lemongrass, lime leaves, star anise and cinnamon sticks.

6. Bring the steeped liquid back up to a simmer, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low and whisk in the rinsed tapioca pearls. Cook, stirring quickly and frequently to break up any clumps, until the liquid is reduced and sticky and the tapioca pearls are tender, 5 minutes for small pearls and 10 to 15 minutes for large pearls (the tapioca should taste soft all the way through, with no resistance). Remove from heat and serve immediately or cover with lid cracked to cool in pot (see Tip).

7. To serve, ladle the warm tapioca into bowls and top with a drizzle of coconut cream, a tablespoon of fresh fruit, a drizzle of molasses or other syrup of choice and a scattering of toasted coconut.

Tip

The coconut can be toasted in advance. Cool completely and store, covered, at room temperature in an airtight container. Tapioca can be served hot or warm. Cool completely and refrigerate, covered, in an airtight container. Reheat over low, stirring constantly to warm up.

Quick Mango Kulfi

Traditional kulfi is made by boiling milk to reduce it, and to concentrate the milk solids, then freezing the base with flavorings such as fruit pulp, spices or nuts. Though kulfi is often compared to ice cream, it抖阴ap nothing like it: Kulfi isn鈥檛 churned. The protein and sugar create a rich, dense texture that is slightly crystalline and quick to melt. This recipe for instant mango kulfi takes short cuts, using canned sweetened condensed milk and heavy cream. It抖阴ap a recipe that has no fixed season, that takes no time to mix up and that comes straight from my mother. She made it all year long when I was growing up, to hold us over in the lonely gaps between trips to see family in India. It抖阴ap inauthentic — and delicious.

By Tejal Rao

Yield: 12 servings

Total time: 5 minutes, plus 10 hours鈥� freezing

Ingredients

• 1 pint heavy cream
• 1 (30-ounce) can Alphonso mango pulp
• 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
• Zest of 1 lime
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
• Pinch of salt

Preparation

1. In a large bowl, mix all of the ingredients until there are no streaks of color, then pour the mixture into a 9- or 10-inch loaf pan lined with plastic wrap (or individual freezer-safe ramekins). Place in the freezer, and allow to set for at least 10 hours, until frozen.

2. Dip the outside of the pan in warm water, just long enough to release the kulfi. After you鈥檝e used the plastic wrap to help you unmold neatly, throw it away. Slice and serve the kulfi immediately. If you鈥檙e using ramekins, allow to sit at room temperature for a few minutes, then serve directly in the bowls.

Malawax (Cardamom Crepe)

Unlike the thick and flaky Yemeni malawah (or malawach), the malawax (pronounced ma-la-wah) that is popular in Somalia and across the Somali diaspora is thin and closer in texture to a crepe. Delicate and sweet, malawax is cooked on each side, resulting in a beautiful caramelized pattern with crispy edges that are the stuff of dreams. But that is where the similarities end: These sweet, tender crepes are bursting with the flavors of cardamom and ghee. They can be enjoyed as a snack, with coffee or tea, or as a fragrant addition to your brunch rotation.

By Ifrah F. Ahmed

Yield: 8 to 10 malawax

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients

• 1 1/3 cups/176 grams all-purpose flour
• 1 cup/240 grams whole milk or milk of choice
• 1 large egg
• 1/4 cup/50 grams sugar, plus more for serving
• 1 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 1/8 teaspoon salt (preferably fine sea salt)
• Melted ghee, as needed

Preparation

1. In a blender, combine the flour, milk, egg, sugar, cardamom and salt. Add 1 cup water and blend until smooth. Transfer to a big bowl and grab a ladle.

2. Using a paper towel, lightly grease a medium nonstick crepe pan, nonstick skillet or cast-iron griddle with melted ghee and place over medium-high heat until well heated. Ladle about 1/3 cup batter into the pan and gently swirl to evenly distribute the batter into a thin round. If using a heavier cast-iron griddle, lightly distribute the batter to cover the bottom of the pan using a ladle. Cook for about 1 to 2 minutes until batter is no longer runny and bottom is brown or until malawax releases easily from the pan with a spatula.

3. Just before flipping the malawax, drizzle it with 1/2 teaspoon melted ghee. Flip the malawax and cook on the second side for about 20 to 30 seconds, or until the edges get crispy and small, golden pockets appear all over the malawax. Flip the malawax onto a plate and sprinkle with your desired amount of sugar.

4. Repeat this process with each malawax until the batter is finished and you have a stack of malawax. Don鈥檛 forget to distribute ghee in the pan evenly with a paper towel as needed between each malawax. Malawax is best eaten right away while it抖阴ap warm and the edges are still crisp.

Rooti Farmaarjol (Honeycomb Cheese Bread)

Rooti farmaajo is a pillowy and sweet, soft-cheese-stuffed bread that is a popular Ramadan staple in many Somali households. This dish translates from Somali simply as 鈥渃heese bread,鈥� but is distinguished by its honeycomb shape and its creamy filling. Rooti farmaajo shares some similarities to khaliat al nahl, Yemeni honeycomb buns, but the similarities end when it comes to toppings: While khaliat al nahl is topped with syrup or honey as well as nigella and sesame seeds, rooti farmaajo is drizzled with condensed milk and topped with shredded coconut. While this bread is a popular treat during Ramadan, it抖阴ap worth making year round — and makes a good accompaniment to coffee or tea.

By Ifrah F. Ahmed

Yield: 30 rolls

Total time: 2 hours

Ingredients

• 2/3 cup/160 milliliters warm whole milk, plus more for egg wash
• 2 teaspoons/6 grams active dry yeast
• 1 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons cane sugar
• 2 1/4 cups/298 grams all-purpose flour, plus more if needed
• 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom (optional)
• 2 large eggs, each cracked into a separate bowl and beaten
• 4 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon/62 grams melted salted butter
• 1 (5.4- or 6-ounce) package of The Laughing Cow Original spreadable cheese wedges, chilled
• 1/4 cup/60 milliliters sweetened condensed milk, plus more to taste
• 1/4 cup/20 grams unsweetened finely shredded coconut flakes

Preparation

1. In a small bowl, combine milk, yeast and 1 teaspoon sugar. Stir together and set aside for 10 minutes to allow yeast to activate. In a bigger bowl, combine flour, salt, baking powder, cardamom (if using) and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Once the yeast mixture is foamy, add to the flour mixture, along with 1 beaten egg and 3 tablespoons of the melted butter. Knead in the bowl until a sticky dough forms, about 5 minutes, adding more flour as needed if the dough is too sticky. Lightly grease dough with 1 teaspoon melted butter. Cover with a clean dish towel and let it rise at room temperature for 1 hour or until doubled in size.

2. Grease a round 9-inch springform pan using the remaining 1 tablespoon butter; heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grab chilled cheese wedges and cut 30 pieces of cheese (about 1/2 teaspoon each). Once the dough has doubled in size, cut the dough into two equal portions. Take one half of the dough and roll it out into a thick rope. Cut the rope crosswise into 15 equal sections. Take one of the cut pieces of dough, roll it into a ball then flatten it into a disk and place 1 piece of cream cheese in the middle. Pinch the dough closed at the top and roll it into a ball using the palms of your hands. Once it抖阴ap round, place it into the greased pan, arranging it with its smoothest side up, and repeat the process with the remaining dough. Make sure the balls of dough are equally spaced out, and allow the dough to rise, covered, for 15 minutes.

3. After the second rise, brush the dough with an egg wash of the remaining egg beaten with a splash of whole milk, then bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown.

4. When the rolls have finished baking, take them out of the oven and drizzle condensed milk on top. Finish off with a sprinkle of coconut flakes. Enjoy warm. Rooti farmaajo can last 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator.

This article originally appeared in .