Metro Denver’s food scene has never been as vibrant as it is today, something The Denver Postap food writers understand. Thatap why we’re out on the town as much as possible. , we’ll provide you with recommendations about a few of the dishes we’ve tried. Want to hear about them early? Subscribe to the Stuffed newsletter, where we introduce one each Wednesday.
Leven Supply
I have a soft spot for pizza, and pizza, in turn, has provided a soft spot for me — my belly. As a result, I don’t eat it as much as I used to, so when I do, I try to pick something new and special. Leven Supply filled that bill with the Hot Honey Pepperoni Pizza ($19). Topped with beautiful, oily cupping pepperoni, hot honey, basil and a fascinating, refreshing lemon ricotta, it lived up to my expectations. Since this was the first time I’d seen or heard of lemon ricotta, I asked the restaurant for its backstory. Here’s the response from Luke Hodnett, who created it for a different dish four years ago.
“One of our favorite components on the pizza is the lemon ricotta. It gives the pizza a creamy complement to the acidity of the lemon slices without hiding any of the lemon flavor we wanted in the pizza. The beauty of it is its simplicity and balance: good ricotta and olive oil, fresh lemon zest and juice and a dash of salt all whipped together and piped fresh onto each pizza.”
The crust was nicely done, although it had a little trouble holding up to the weight of the toppings and the effect of the honey. Would I order it again? Absolutely, although I’ll need to go for a few walks first.
300 E. Alameda Ave., Denver;
Vinnola’s Italian Market
I’m not from the East Coast, so I don’t have any preconceived notions about what a chicken parm sandwich “should” taste like or look like. I don’t need it to come on a specific kind of roll and I don’t judge it by whether the cutlet is thick or thin or somewhere in between. I only know what I like. And I liked the chicken parm sandwich from Vinnola’s Italian Market in Wheat Ridge. The chicken was breaded heartily enough to give it a satisfying crunch; the roll was solid but soft; the sauce (in a dipping cup) was full-flavored; and the melty mozzarella stretched all the way from the plate to my mouth. Did I mention it was $12.95 (with chips) – several dollars less than equivalent sandwiches around metro Denver? Founded in the early 1970s, Vinnola’s is a market selling Italian groceries, a deli counter and a cafe, where you can sit and listen to “Mambo Italiano” on the speakers and watch people stream in and order Italian sausage sandwiches to go, or spaghetti and (giant) meatball to eat inside. Regulars get hugs from the friendly folks behind the counter, and everyone receives a warm welcome.
7750 W. 38th Ave., Wheat Ridge;
Ma’s Kitchen Dim Sum & Bar
If you’re like me, you’ve been reveling in the explosion of dumpling shops in metro Denver. After all, we were a virtual dumpling desert up until a few years ago. I live in east Denver, and although I was sad to see Okinawa close (it was a go-to in my family), Ma’s Kitchen, which has the same owners and is located at the same address, is a fantastic replacement. Every dish we ordered, from the spicy Sichuan chicken to the shu mai to the pan-fried pork buns (6 for $13), resulted in smiles around the table. The beautifully presented buns in particular, juicy on the inside and crisp on the outside, were a standout.
2301 E. Colfax Ave., Denver;
La Fiesta Mexican Restaurant
There are plenty of Denver restaurants that we can’t afford to lose — especially since we’ve lost so many already. One of those is La Fiesta, the 63-year-old Colorado-style Mexican food spot that is still owned by the same family — a family that makes both regular and new customers feel like their own. Located in a former grocery store on what has become a very busy, very developed Champa Street, La Fiesta is decidedly old school, delivering big plastic menus to your table, chock full of burritos, tacos, enchiladas, chile rellenos, green chile and all the combo plates your heart could desire. Primarily known as a weekday lunch spot, it also offers dinner on Fridays and Saturdays, which is when I ordered the chile relleno burrito, which is stuffed with rice, a crispy fried pepper and cheese, and topped with green chile, refried beans and veggies. La Fiesta is a gem that shines back on a different era in Denver. Hopefully it continues to shine into the future.
2340 Champa St., Denver;
