Why does the subject of vegetables inflame such passionate feelings? A brief, innocent mention of Brussels sprouts in a casual conversation can lead to long-winded diatribes about their vile smell and foul flavor.
Fortunately, the field of vegetables is so vast, and their cooking methods so varied, there’s something for everyone.
In “Vegetables Every Day” (Harper Collins, 2001), author Jack Bishop divides cooking techniques for vegetables into dry and moist heat methods. It’s a good starting point, because each will produce its own flavor and texture.
So here’s a guide to the best cooking methods for seasonal produce. Then check out our online list of vegetables to learn how to pair them up.
MOIST-HEAT METHODS
Blanch: Vegetables are briefly put into a saucepan of boiling water, and the timing begins immediately. This doesn’t fully cook the food but softens the texture.
To stop the cooking and set the color, “refresh” vegetables by immediately draining and plunging them ice water.
Vegetables can be blanched a day in advance of serving. Once they’re refreshed, pat with paper towels, then wrap in dry towels, place in a plastic bag and refrigerate. Finish cooking by sauteing or stir-frying the vegetables.
Blanching and refreshing are also necessary before freezing vegetables to keep the enzymes from breaking down color and texture.
Boil: Here’s a myth buster. Adding a pinch of baking soda to boiling water may indeed help keep vegetables green, but the soda’s alkali causes a mushy texture. There is, however, a solution to holding the vibrant color.
“Essentially, with most green vegetables, you can count on having seven minutes of heat before there is a major color change,” says Shirley Corriher, author of “CookWise: The Secrets of Cooking Revealed” (William Morrow, 1997).
Vegetables should be added to rapidly boiling water, and the timing should begin only when the water returns to the boil. Always leave the pan uncovered. If boiling vegetables for a salad, be sure to refresh them to stop the cooking.
Braise: Lightly brown the vegetable in a little fat, then add a tablespoon or two of liquid to start the cooking process. Cover the pan and cook slowly over medium-low heat. Once the vegetable has released its moisture, add only enough additional liquid to keep it moist.
Poach: Similar to boiling but uses less liquid and lower heat to gently cook more fragile vegetables.
Steam: A large pot and a simple steamer basket are the tools needed to cook vegetables with this method. Bring the water to a boil before placing the covered basket above the pot.
DRY-HEAT METHODS
These evaporate moisture in the vegetables quickly, which causes the juices to brown and the natural sugars to concentrate and become very flavorful.
Broil: The heat source is above the food, making this a great technique for blistering the skins of sweet peppers or chilies for easy peeling and a smoky flavor. Sliced vegetables such as eggplant should be brushed lightly with oil to keep them from drying out.
Grill: Similar to broiling, but the heat source comes from below, and a basting liquid is needed to keep food moist.
For indoor cooking, heavy grill pans caramelize the vegetables and give them a wonderful smoky flavor.
Roast: Toss with a light coating of olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt, then roast in a single layer in a shallow, rimmed baking sheet. The high temperature of 400 degrees or above causes the vegetables to shrink and release their natural moisture, which concentrates the sugars and deepens the flavor.
Sauté: The pan should be large enough to cook the vegetables in a single layer without crowding. The bottom of the pan should have a light coating of oil, or a mixture of oil and butter. A nonstick cooking spray can also be used. Set the pan over medium heat and wait for the oil to become hot before adding the vegetables. Blanch tougher vegetables such as green beans first to speed the cooking process.
Stir-fry: Similar to a sauté, but vegetables are cut into smaller pieces. Use medium-high to high heat for quick cooking and toss often.
Sources: “Williams-Sonoma Kitchen Companion: The A to Z Guide to Everyday Cooking Equipment and Ingredients”; “Vegetables Every Day,” by Jack Bishop; “Perfect Vegetables,” by the editors of Cook’s Illustrated Magazine; “CookWise,” by Shirley Corriher.
Now that you’re familiar with the best cooking techniques for vegetables, pair them with a favorite. Remember that cooking times are approximate and will depend on the freshness and thickness of the vegetable and on the desired tenderness. Salt will add flavor and can be used as needed.
Artichokes (2 to 4): Wash and trim stems, then cut off about 1 inch from the tops.
Blanch: 8 minutes.
Boil: 30 to 40 minutes. The heart should be tender, and the leaves should pull away easily.
Roast: Put artichokes into a large baking pan with about 1 inch of water in the bottom (check during cooking so the water does not boil off). Cover and roast in a preheated 375-degree oven 45 to 60 minutes.
Asparagus (1 pound): Snap ends from spears and wash asparagus well.
Blanch: 2-inch pieces, 1 minute; whole spears, 1 1/2 minutes.
Boil: 4 to 7 minutes for whole spears, or 3 minutes for 2-inch pieces.
Grill: Brush whole spears with olive oil and grill over medium-hot coals or on a grill pan 5 to 10 minutes, turning often.
Roast: Spread whole spears in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Toss with olive oil to lightly coat. Roast at 425 degrees, 10 to 15 minutes. Steam: Whole spears, 5 to 7 minutes.
Stir-fry: Cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces and stir-fry in hot oil over medium-high heat 3 minutes.
Beans, green or yellow wax (3/4 pound): Snap ends and leave whole or cut into 1-inch pieces.
Blanch: Cut pieces, 2 to 3 minutes.
Boil: 3 to 5 minutes for cut pieces, or 4 to 7 minutes for whole.
Sauté: Blanch or steam beans first, then saute in hot oil or butter 2 to 3 minutes.
Steam: 5 to 10 minutes.
Stir-fry: Pieces can be stir-fried in hot oil over medium-high heat 5 minutes. If beans are tough, add a little water or broth, cover and steam a few minutes until tender.
Beets (1 pound): Wash but don’t peel. Cut off stems, leaving about 1 1/2 inches. A paring knife can be inserted easily into the center of cooked beets.
Boil: 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the size of the beets. Drain, briefly plunge into cold water, then peel.
Bake: Wrap in aluminum foil and put into a baking pan. Cook at 375 degrees 30 to 60 minutes.
Broccoli (1 pound): Trim broccoli florets into pieces about 1 1/2 inches long. Peel the stalks and cut on the diagonal into 1/4-inch-thick slices.
Blanch: 1 1/2 minutes.
Boil: 3 to 5 minutes.
Sauté: Heat a little olive oil in a skillet, add broccoli and cook 5 to 7 minutes.
Steam: Put florets and stalks into a steamer basket and set over boiling water. Cover and steam 3 to 4 minutes or until just tender.
Cabbage, red or green (1 pound): Cut in half and remove core and tougher outside leaves. Cut into 8 wedges or 1/2-inch shreds.
Blanch: 2 minutes for shreds; 5 minutes for wedges.
Boil: 8 to 10 minutes for shreds; 12 to 15 minutes for wedges.
Braise: 20 to 25 minutes.
Sauté: Toss shreds in hot butter or oil and cook, stirring often, 7 to 10 minutes.
Carrots (1 pound): Peel or scrub well. Unless otherwise indicated, cut into slices on the diagonal about 1/4-inch thick. Baby carrots can be left whole.
Blanch: 2 minutes.
Boil: 3 to 5 minutes.
Roast: Cut carrots in half lengthwise, then crosswise into 2-inch chunks. Put into baking dish, toss with olive oil and roast at 425 degrees 40 to 60 minutes. Stir occasionally.
Steam: 7 to 10 minutes
Cauliflower (1 pound): Cut florets into 1 1/2-inch pieces.
Blanch: 1 1/2 minutes.
Boil: 3 minutes.
Roast: Toss with oil to coat lightly and roast at 425 degrees 10 to 15 minutes or until browned and tender.
Sauté: Blanch first, then saute in hot oil or butter 5 minutes.
Steam: 7 to 9 minutes.
Corn kernels (2 1/2 cups): Remove husks and silks from ears, scrape kernels from cob.
Blanch: 1 minute.
Boil: 3 to 4 minutes.
Sauté: Add to hot oil or butter in skillet and saute over medium heat 4 to 5 minutes.
Steam: 3 to 4 minutes.
Corn on the cob (4 to 6 medium): Unless grilling or roasting, remove husks and silks.
Blanch: 2 minutes.
Boil: 4 to 5 minutes.
Grill: Remove silks, replace husks and soak corn in water 1 hour.
Drain and twist or tie tops. Or remove silks and husks and wrap in foil. Cook over medium-hot coals 15 to 20 minutes.
Roast: Prepare as for grilling and roast in an electric 450-degree oven 15 to 20 minutes.
Steam: 5 minutes.
Leeks (1 pound): Remove tougher outer green leaves and cut off about 2 inches from tops. Leave whole, sliced in half or cut crosswise into 1/8-inch-thick slices.
Braise: 15 to 25 minutes.
Grill: Brush halves with oil and grill over medium-hot coals 10 minutes.
Sauté: Slices, 5 minutes.
Onions (yellow, red, white, boiling, Cipolline, pearl; 1 pound): Blanch: 3 minutes for whole, unpeeled onions. Drain and peel.
Boil (Cipolline, boiling, pearl): Peel, 2 to 5 minutes.
Braise: Blanch and peel first. Saute in olive oil or butter, cook covered over medium-low heat 25 minutes, then uncovered 5 minutes.
Roast: Peel, brush with olive oil and put into a baking dish. Roast at 400 degrees 50 minutes for whole, 30 minutes for wedges.
Sauté: Chopped or sliced, 5 to 10 minutes -Peas, green (3 cups shelled): Rinse and shell.
Blanch: 1 to 2 minutes.
Boil: 3 to 5 minutes.
Peas, snow and sugar snap (1 pound): Rinse and pull strings.
Blanch: 30 to 60 seconds.
Boil: 1 to 2 minutes.
Stir-fry: 2 to 5 minutes in oil over medium-high heat.
Peppers, hot or sweet (2 to 4): Remove stems, seeds and white membranes. Cut into rings or strips.
Blanch: 2 minutes.
Sauté: 7 to 10 minutes in olive oil over medium heat.
Roast: Place whole peppers under a broiler or over a grill. Roast until skins have blackened, then remove from heat and top with wet paper towels to cool. Skin and seed roasted peppers.
Potatoes (1 1/2 pounds): Scrub and peel if desired. Cut into slices, wedges or cubes, or leave whole.
Bake, whole: Pierce and bake at 375 degrees, 45 to 60 minutes.
Boil: Whole new potatoes, 15 to 20 minutes; whole mature potatoes, 25 to 45 minutes; slices 5 to 7 minutes.
Roast: Peel and cut into wedges or chunks. Toss with olive oil and roast at 425 degrees 25 to 45 minutes, turning once.
Sauté: Slice and cook in combination of olive oil and butter over medium heat 25 to 35 minutes.
Steam: Whole new, 20 minutes; whole mature, 30 to 45 minutes; slices, 10 to 15 minutes.
Spinach (1 1/2 – 2 pounds): Wash well, remove tough stems, chop leaves or leave whole.
Blanch: 2 minutes.
Sauté: Cook 3 to 4 minutes in oil or butter on medium heat.
Squash: Summer (1 to 1 1/2 pounds): Leave baby squash whole; slice or dice others.
Blanch: 1 to 2 minutes.
Grill: Slice 3/4-inch thick; brush with olive oil; medium-hot grill 8 to 10 minutes.
Sauté: Cook in olive oil over medium-high heat 4 to 7 minutes.
Roast: Toss with olive oil, 425 degrees, 15 to 20 minutes.
Tomatoes (1 pound): Wash.
Bake: Cut in half, put into baking dish and drizzle with olive oil.
Bake at 375 degrees 20 to 25 minutes.
Blanch: Cut X in blossom end, 30 seconds.
Roast: Put in roasting pan, drizzle with olive oil. Roast at 400 degrees 30 to 45 minutes; texture should be very soft.
-The Seattle Times
Sources: “Timing is Everything” by Jack Piccolo; “Williams-Sonoma Kitchen Companion: The A to Z Guide to Everyday Cooking Equipment and Ingredients”; “Vegetables Every Day” by Jack Bishop
Braised Sweet Peppers with Olives
Adapted from a recipe by English chef Sophie Conran, makes 6-8 servings.
Ingredients
3 red bell peppers
3 yellow bell peppers
2 orange bell peppers
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups thinly sliced yellow onions
3 medium cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
3/4 cup mixed pitted olives (do not use canned)
Directions
Cut tops from bell peppers and remove seeds. Cut peppers into 1/4-inch thick slices and set aside.
In a 3 1/2-quart, heavy-bottomed pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes.
Add bell peppers and saute 3 minutes. Stir in garlic, salt, pepper and crushed red pepper.
Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and cook gently 35 minutes, stirring occasionally. (The vegetables will release their juices, which become the braising liquid.) Stir in olives and continue cooking, uncovered, 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
From “A New Way to Cook,” by Sally Schneider; makes 4 servings.
Ingredients
1 lemon, cut in half
4 artichokes (see note)
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
8 medium cloves garlic, very thinly sliced
15 fresh sage leaves
1/2 cup water
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Directions
Squeeze lemon juice into a medium bowl and fill with cold water. Set aside.
Prepare artichoke bottoms (see step-by-step instructions) and drop into the lemon water to keep them from browning.
In a large nonstick skillet, combine oil and garlic, cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until garlic is barely golden, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook until crisp, about 1 minute longer. With a slotted spoon, transfer garlic to a small bowl.
Raise heat to medium. Add sage leaves to hot oil in skillet and cook 2-3 minutes, turning once, until leaves are darkened, fragrant and crisp. Add to garlic. Drain off and reserve oil.
Drain artichokes and add to skillet with 1/2 cup water and salt.
Cover and cook over medium heat about 10-12 minutes or until most of the water has evaporated and the artichokes are tender but not mushy. Uncover, increase heat to high and cook to evaporate any remaining liquid. Add reserved oil and sauté artichokes, turning often, until browned, about 4-5 minutes. Season with pepper and serve hot or at room temperature, scattering garlic and sage leaves over the top.
To make ahead: Up to 5 hours ahead, the artichokes can be braised until tender and the liquid has evaporated. (Do not sauté.) Refrigerate. Finish the dish by sautéing the artichokes until browned.
Note: The leaves can be steamed in a basket until tender. Depending on the amount to be steamed, the timing can range from 10-30 minutes.
From “Everyday Italian,” by Giada De Laurentiis, 6-8 servings.
Ingredients
1 pound medium-thick asparagus
3 red bell peppers, cut in half, stemmed and seeded
2 yellow summer squash, cut diagonally into 1/2-to 3/4-inch slices
2 zucchini, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch slices
12 cremini mushrooms
12 green onions
About 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
Directions
Snap off ends of asparagus and wash well. If very sandy, let soak for a few minutes in cold water, agitating slightly. Drain, rinse and repeat if necessary. Wrap in paper towels; set aside.
Cut each bell pepper half into quarters and set aside. Prepare yellow squash and zucchini; set aside. Wipe mushrooms with a damp paper towel, trim stem ends and cut each in half. Trim and discard ends from green onions. Rinse well and pat dry.
Whisk together 2 tablespoons olive oil with balsamic vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a little pepper; set aside. Brush vegetables with remaining olive oil and sprinkle with remaining salt and pepper.
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium-high heat, or preheat a ridged grill pan for 5 minutes on medium-high. Working in batches, grill vegetables until tender and lightly charred all over, about 8 to 10 minutes for bell peppers, yellow squash and zucchini; 5 to 10 minutes for asparagus; 5 to 7 minutes for mushrooms; and 4 to 5 minutes for green onions. Arrange on a platter, sprinkle with herbs and drizzle with dressing. Serve warm or at room temperature.
