I love the Paris Wine Bar, but my friend Ann is not so psyched about it.
That there is now a comfortable, arty vino hangout attached to the south end of the venerable coffee institution Paris on the Platte means there is no longer a musty library adjacent to the smoky java house. And as Ann sat on the patio earlier this week, eyeing the newish bar’s stylish veneer and the neon in the window, she started on a rant that was a journey through this Platte Valley neighborhood going back to its seedier under-the-viaduct days.
“There used to be true culture here,” she said, taking herself back to the underground graffiti days of the ’80s. “And now, look at it around here.”
Her point is undeniable – but it’s also futile. Sit on the patio at the Paris Wine Bar (1549 Platte St., 303-217-5805) and your view is an eyesore of an apartment building. Brother’s is still down the street, but in contrast to decades past, you’re now within walking distance from upscale dining, an REI, Coors Field and Elitch Gardens.
Which is to be expected. I lack the sentiment for the old Paris. I remember catching killer industrial rock shows in the garage space behind Paris as a teenager, and the coffee ‘n’ cloves have always been hot. But even then, the neighborhood’s growth was obvious.
The Paris Wine Bar makes perfect sense.
The room is intimate with the perfect, low lighting. It lacks pretense, and so does the staff. My friend Emily serves there and exposes customers to great music such as The Arcade Fire. The wine list is excellent, offering nearly everything by the bottle and the glass.
The room is attracting the right crowd too. Sitting opposite from us were indie kids from A Dog Paloma and Porlolo, two of Denver’s best-loved roots acts. Inside, an artist-DJ ate with her friend. The night was getting brisk, but the bar was warm. And welcoming.
Staff writer Ricardo Baca can be reached at 303-820-1394 or rbaca@denverpost.com.
Funky: Paris isn’t what it used to be, but it still serves a valid purpose, especially for the under-21 subversive set. And the wine bar is an excellent complement to the coffee shop.
Skunky: The neighborhood needs more foot traffic.
