On my third visit to Mona’s, a popular and relatively recent addition to the Platte River Valley scene, I finally figured out why it felt so familiar: It’s reminiscent of the bright side of the hippie scene of the late ’60s and early ’70s.
Walk into this deep rectangular space on 15th Street, across from Shakespeare’s and behind REI, and it has a peaceful, easy feeling.
Greeters are quick to apologize if they’ve failed to notice you. A blackboard along the right-hand wall runs about two-thirds the length of the space. Diners can doodle on it, or draw arrows pointing to where they are.
Mona’s is committed to pesticide-, antibiotic- and hormone- free Maverick Ranch chicken and beef, and boasts nest-fresh eggs. Several dishes are imaginative enough, such as the orange brioche french toast ($5.98), blueberry flapjacks with lemon whipped cream ($5.98) and DaVinci’s crab cake Benedict. At $10.98, the crab cakes and a 6-ounce steak-and- egg breakfast are the two most expensive items on the breakfast-and-brunch-only menu.
The restaurant also serves three-egg options any way you want: up, scrambled or in an omelet with your choice of three ingredients ($6.98). Well, any way except soft scrambled, apparently. A light-as-a-feather toasted croissant arrived toasty warm. The requested soft-scrambled eggs ($6.98) with sausage on the side ($1) arrived rubbery with the sausage scrambled in. (Tofu and all-egg white substitutions are available.)
A companion who ordered the huevos rancheros ($6.98) was pleasantly surprised when the eggs arrived in a crisped flour tortilla bowl surrounded by plump and flavorful pinto beans, not enough green chile, a sliver of avocado, a sprinkling of diced fresh tomato, a lime quarter and cilantro sprigs. Alas, the tortilla was stale.
Service is friendly and efficient enough for a such a laid-back place, and if one subscribes to the notion that none of us is perfect, it’s way better than OK.
Lunch offerings are straightforward: soup, salads, sandwiches. Fish and chips ($7.98) and a 6-ounce grilled sirloin with blue cheese. But, ah, the grilled cheese sandwich. Sometimes a grilled cheese sandwich is more than bread, butter and cheese.
In deference to plans for a heavy dinner, I opted for a cup of the soup of the day – a splendidly spicy corned beef and cabbage combo that was lusciously spicy and robust – and half a grilled cheese sandwich ($5.98).
Oh, my.
Made with whole wheat, cheddar, roasted red peppers and grilled onions, the sandwich’s every bite tempted me to order the other half.
Mona’s can make you smile.
Staff writer Ellen Sweets can be reached at 303-820-1284 or esweets@denverpost.com
Mona’s </h4
AMERICAN|2364 15th St., 303-455-4503|$3.98-$10.98|6 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; 7 a.m.- 3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday; Visa, MC; off-and on-street parking.
Front burner: It is pleasant and cheerful with earnest service
Back burner: Singles are directed to bar seating even if there are two-tops available.
