Food
BEST RESTAURANT: Lo Locandiera, Ascoli Piceno.
Small and cozy with vaulted brick ceilings, it’s one of the best restaurant bargains in Europe. Owner Giuseppe Frollo, a friendly, mustachioed gent in his 40s, threw dishes at me as if they were darts.
First came a basket of homemade bread. Then an antipasti plate of bresaola, pinole (pine nuts) and parmigiano. Third came his specialty: olive ripiene alscolane, stuffed olives fried in a light batter.
He was just getting warmed up. Next came fusilli con tartufo, pasta with the glorious and rare Italian mushrooms. Dish No. 5 was gnocchi con castrato, the little Italian dumplings covered in a spectacular tomato sauce.
Wait, he wasn’t done.
I had vitello tagliate, veal with parmigiano, olive oil and lemon, followed by coniglio con patate, rabbit with potatoes, and, finally, dessert. Served with an endless supply of 2001 Il Conte Zipolo from Le Marche vineyards, the whole feast cost all of 31 euro (about $37). Lo Locandiera, Via Goldoni, 2, 39-07-26-2509, lalocandiera.it.
BEST WINE BAR: Vincanta, Numana.
Occupying an unassuming spot on a sidewalk off the main piazza, Vincanta is a great place to sample underrated Marche wines. I had a delicious Santa Maria del Fiore for only 2.50 euro ($3) and a Lacrima di Morro d’Alba for about the same from vineyards near the town of Jesi. Vincanta, Fia Flaminia, 44/A. Phone: 39-348-653-1921.
BEST WEIRD LOCAL DISH: Strozzapreti, Urbino.
Translated, strozzapreti means “strangle the priest.” Instead, I had mine with saffron and porcini at Il Girarrosto, a nice restaurant across the street from Raphael’s boyhood home. Il Girarrosto, Piazza San Francesco, 3, 39-07-22-2455.