It is much easier these days to feed our inner Francophile. Denver has Le Central, Bistro Vendome, Steak au Poivre and, now, a charming little place on 17th Avenue called A La Tomate – to the tomato. That is, all praise to this fine fruit of the vine.
Zip through the light at Franklin Street and you’ll probably miss it. That would be a shame, because the folks in the kitchen know how to prod the best out of eggs, tomatoes, fresh herbs and cheese – not to mention a melt-in-the- mouth pastry crust.
If plain is your preference, head straight for the tarte a la tomate (tomato pie), kissing cousin to Italy’s pizza but bearing no resemblance to what we call a pie ($5.75 for 6-inch; $11.95 for a 10-inch, and $16.95 for a 14-inch). Prices escalate slightly with add-ons, but there are other brave combos: pepperoni, genoa salami and cappicola; grilled chicken and artichoke; shrimp and bacon; roasted eggplant and garlic; prosciutto and toasted pine nuts.
The menu is based on the experience chef-owner Philip Collier had at a country bistro in the south of France. He loved the tarte served there so much he built his menu around it.
A 6-inch tart layered with cheese, sliced tomatoes, caramelized red onions and fresh mushrooms proved light and melt-in-the-mouth lovely. Encased in a buttery pastry crust, it was a circular piece of heaven.
These little tarts also can be consumed in the morning for petit dejeuner – as the French call breakfast – filled with creamy scrambled eggs and two toppings of your choice. Or you can make do with a rich cuppa joe and a chocolate-filled croissant.
Acknowledging the cross-fertilization of foods from France and neighboring Italy, steak and pasta specials have been added to the dinner menu.
Collier and his wife, Michelle Colli, poured everything they had into this little piece of Provence. “I tasted one of these tarts, and I knew I had to bring it to America,” Collier says.
Ultimately, it wound up in Denver. Collier also had the good sense to include a full bar with a respectable selection of French, California, and Oregon wine, plus imported beers. The bistro also offers a Provencal platter that includes your choice of two items, seasonal fruit and freshly baked bread($7.99 basic, $1.29 per add-on).
For under $22 (excluding tax and tip) you can enjoy a French antipasti platter of artichokes, roast beef, shrimp salad, roasted garlic, tapenade, pears, and bread baked that day. That and a glass of wine ($5-$6) could momentarily transport the willing to Avignon or Marseille.
Staff writer Ellen Sweets can be reached at 303-820-1284 or esweets@denverpost.com.
A La Tomate Bistro and Tarterie
FRENCH|1618 E. 17th Ave; 303-333-9555|$2.25-$29.95| Breakfast/Brunch/Lunch/Dinner; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday-Friday; 8 a.m. to midnight, Thursday-Saturday; 9 a.m.-4 p.m., Sunday. MasterCard, Visa. Street parking.
Front burner: Full bar, friendly service and a little bit of Italy for variety.
Back burner: Hey, this is French. Relax and be patient if the kitchen gets backed up. Park where you can.
