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– “Vegan With a Vengeance” (Marlowe & Company, 2005, $16.95) by Isa Chandra Moskowitz.

Another punk vegetarian. Must be something in the water. This is the first time I’ve seen a press release for a new cookbook use profanity. Repeatedly. Proudly. This is not the softer side of veganism.

Moskowitz follows a strong DIY ethic, so be prepared to make your own veggie burgers and pasta (gnocchi to be precise). She also prefers making dry beans from scratch, though she allows for canned pumpkin in the pumpkin waffles.

I expected to dislike this book, but was pleasantly surprised at how appealing so many of the recipes were – balsamic-glazed portobello mushrooms, maple and mustard-glazed potatoes and string beans, and garlicky kale with tahini dressing.

Most of the recipes are easy to follow and call for common ingredients (at least, common to anyone who would buy a book titled “Vegan With a Vengeance). I was even drawn to some of the tofu recipes, including pumpkin seed-crusted tofu.

This book definitely feels less crunchy than Kramer’s, though they clearly are cut from the same slab of bean curd. I was surprised by the higher-end ingredients called for in some recipes (including black truffle oil).

Though I enjoy the title, I think it’s almost a shame. This book (which hits shelves in November) may lose sales because of its in-your-face feel, when in reality it contains good, honest vegan recipes with broad appeal.

RECIPE

Jerk Seitan

(Start to finish 1 hour and 15 minutes, 15 minutes active)

For the marinade:

  • 1/2 large white onion, coarsely chopped

  • 2 cloves garlic, crushed

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh ginger, chopped

  • 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

  • 3 tablespoons soy sauce

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 2 tablespoons maple syrup

  • 1 tablespoon dried thyme

  • 1 teaspoon allspice

  • 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

  • 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

  • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne

    For the seitan:

  • 2 cups seitan, cut into thick strips

  • 2 teaspoons olive oil

  • 1 onion, thickly sliced

  • 1 green bell pepper, seeded and thickly sliced

    To prepare the marinade, combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor and pulse until smooth. Place the seitan in a shallow bowl and pour the marinade over it. Toss to coat, then cover and marinate 1 hour.

    To prepare the seitan, heat the olive oil over a medium-high flame in a large skillet. Add the onion and pepper and saute 5 to 7 minutes, or until the onion starts to brown. Remove the seitan from the marinade, reserving the liquid, and add to the pan.

    Saute the seitan until browned to your liking, up to 10 minutes.

    Add reserved marinade and cook another 2 minutes to heat the sauce through. Serve over rice or roasted vegetables.

    (Recipe from Isa Chandra Moskowitz’ “Vegan with a Vengeance,” Marlowe & Company, 2005, $16.95.)

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