Overstuffed burrito joints are waging a turf war in our own backyard. So why should anyone care about one more Mexican place touting tortillas and all that goes in them?
The answer is simple: Viva Burrito isn’t a Qdoba knock- off, nor does it aspire to be.
“Our menu says ‘real Mexican,”‘ stressed Edgar Beltran, who founded the business with his father nine years ago. “My food is very traditional.”
So instead of Qdoba’s fussy (if tasty) poblano pesto burrito with ingredients such as poblano peppers, cilantro, almonds and pine nuts, you have a carne asada burrito ($2.89), with strips of grilled sirloin, guacamole and pico de gallo. It’s a dish found at a hundred restaurants in northern Mexico, and Viva Burrito’s version has all the fresh, simple flavors that have made it a classic.
Rolled tacos with cheese ($1.60 for three) are even more minimalist, with only three ingredients: corn tortillas, shredded beef and cheese. Rolled tightly, fried and topped with grated cheddar, they offer that one-two punch of salt and fat that comes with any addictive snack. It’s the kind of item you rifle through the bag looking for first.
While the menu may be standard, the execution isn’t rigid. The pork for carnitas tacos ($2.29) is cooked the traditional way, in boiling water with a splash of oil, garlic and salt. But before being tucked in corn tortillas with guacamole and pico de gallo, the meat is shredded.
“In Mexico it would be served in chunks,” explained Beltran. “But we’re always trying to think of the gringo. He’s not going to like it in the chunks.”
Other changes for the American palate include pico de gallo made without jalapenos and lard-free refried beans.
Viva Burrito doesn’t deliver, but all four locations in the metro area are open 24 hours a day. Got a late-night craving while watching TV? Try chips and salsa ($1.60), a mountain of tortilla chips, cheese, and diced tomatoes. Breakfast on the run? Try a chorizo breakfast burrito ($1.95), a hearty mix of eggs, potatoes, chorizo and cheese.
Sometimes you wish Viva Burrito would emulate its bigger counterparts, with their sleek spaces and focus on fresh produce. At one point during a recent meal, I looked around at my mound of take- out containers and wished for more greens, more vegetables. But there are other restaurants for that. Right now I’ll have that last rolled taco.
Viva Burrito
MEXICAN|6990 Leetsdale Drive, 303-320-4753|$1.60-$5.39| Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. There’s a parking lot and a drive-through window.
Front burner: The food is cooked to order and sides like guacamole are made in small batches throughout the day.
Back burner: A waiting room has more atmosphere, so go drive-through. Also, prices are expected to increase this fall.
