Think about your usual ice-climbing location – a cold, snowy valley high in the mountains. This week we visit a different environment – still cold, but rather than snow-covered mountains you will be in a desert environment.
Located in the Colorado National Monument, the outing described here allows you to combine scenic desert canyon hiking with a few pitches of spectacular ice climbing. I guarantee this will qualify as a unique ice experiences.
For non-ice climbers the hike itself is worthwhile if you enjoy the desert canyons – high sandstone walls surrounding the sandy streambed with a variety of vegetation and intriguing pools to explore. Since the rough trail bypasses the lower falls, it is possible to hike several miles up the canyon.
Both the lower and upper falls occur where granite has intruded into the soft sandstone. This harder rock has eroded more slowly, creating the steep drop-offs.
To reach the lower icefall, follow the trail signs to No Thoroughfare Canyon, passing two trail junctions in the first 0.3 miles. The trail follows the wash for a total of 1.9 miles to the base of the lower icefall. Much of the stream will be frozen in the morning, so take care when crossing the stream. Expect the approach to the lower falls to take about an hour.
The first view of the lower falls is quite unexpected and seems incongruous in this location, with a full 50 meters of WI4, the crux being near the top.
Either lead the pitch or walk around on a steep, somewhat loose trail on the right side of the falls. There are fixed anchors at the top of the pitch.
After entertaining yourselves on the lower falls, head up canyon for just less than a mile to the upper falls. Allow about 40 minutes to get there from the lower falls.
The upper falls consist of an easy approach pitch (WI2) to a flat area that works as a staging area for the 50-meter main pitch of WI3+. Belay well out of the way of falling ice.
There are no fixed anchors above this upper ice, so either walk off to the right on a cairned trail or rappel the two pitches using two 50-meter ropes and V-threads.
Walk back down the canyon to the lower falls and either rappel this pitch from the fixed anchors or walk down on the trail.
Dave Cooper is the author of “Colorado Scrambles: A Guide to 50 Select Climbs in Colorado’s Mountains.”
The details
Getting to the trailhead
From Interstate 70 take the Horizon Drive exit in Grand Junction (Exit 31) and follow Horizon Drive for 1 mile southwest to a roundabout. Take the North 12th Street exit south from the roundabout and drive 2.2 miles to Grand Avenue. Drive west on Grand Avenue. After 1 mile Grand Avenue intersects U.S. 50 where the road becomes Colorado 340. Continue west on 340 for 0.9 miles to Monument Road, shortly after crossing the Colorado River. Take Monument Road southwest for 3.7 miles to trailhead parking on the left, a quarter mile past the East Entrance Station. Note that this is a U.S. fee area.
Gear and guidebooks
A standard ice rack and double 50-meter ropes. If you plan to rappel the upper icefall, you will need V-thread gear for two double-rope rappels.
For information, see “Colorado Ice: Volume 1,” by Jack Roberts.
Climb statistics
Gain 900 feet of elevation in 2.8 miles of hiking (one way). The lower falls offer 50 meters of ice rated WI4, while the upper falls have a WI2 approach pitch followed by 50 meters of WI3+.
Note: Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and you should always climb within your ability after carefully judging the safety of the route. This information is provided as a guide. We write about it; you take all the risks. Also, ice climbing has additional hazards and requires additional precautions and gear.
