“Deconstruct” isn’t a word you ordinarily associate with restaurant chefs. After all, they are in the business of putting things together rather than taking them apart. But Rachel Klein, chef at the new Om Restaurant and Lounge in Cambridge, Mass. has deconstructed the classic Caesar salad.
All the traditional ingredients – romaine hearts dressed in lemon, oil, egg yolk, anchovy, garlic and Parmesan – are present, but the chef lays the tender leaves on a rectangular plate side by side with slender asparagus and tiny fingerling potatoes (both new to Caesar), shaved Parmesan and white anchovies deep-fried into golden curls. The crowning touch: a soft-cooked egg nestled on a metal ring and offered with a little spoon. The diner’s job is to toss the ingredients.
“When you mix it all together,” says Klein, “you have something special.” It’s a world away from the theatrical Caesar tossed tableside – but no less exciting. At home, we pared down Klein’s stunning presentation so that it is less daunting to prepare but just as dramatic to present.
DECONSTRUCTED CAESAR
Serves 4
Fill a saucepan fitted with a steamer insert with several inches of water. Bring to a boil, add the green beans, cover and steam for 4 minutes or until the beans are tender but still have some bite.
Fill a bowl with cold water. Use tongs to transfer the beans to the cold water.
After the beans cool, arrange them in the center of each of 4 plates. Remove the outside romaine leaves. Set 5 of the paler inside leaves on each plate, then some Parmesan slivers. Set the plates aside.
Remove the steamer from the saucepan. Tip out the water and refill the pan with cold water. Bring to a boil. With a straight pin, prick a hole in the rounded end of each egg. Using a slotted spoon, lower the eggs into the boiling water, let the water return to a low boil, and cook the eggs for exactly 5 minutes. Fill another bowl with cold water.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to the cold water. When they are cool enough to handle, peel the shell from the rounded end of each egg. Set the eggs in egg cups or other holders and place them on the plate with the lettuce. Serve with eggless Caesar dressing.
EGGLESS CAESAR DRESSING
Makes about
In a food processor, work the garlic, anchovies, lemon juice, mustard, salt and pepper until smooth. With the motor running, add the oil to the mixture in a thin steady stream until the dressing is smooth. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Just before serving, stir in the Parmesan cheese.
