I think it’s safe to say that the average visitor to Milan will find that it’s a city like no other in Italy. It’s foggy in winter, muggy in summer, and as one well-known Italian tour operator described it: “Closer in outlook as well as distance to London than to Palermo. No city of peeling palazzi, cobbled piazzas, and la dolce vita, (Milan) is one in which time is money, the pace is fast, and where consumerism and the work-ethic rule the lives of its power-dressed citizens.”
In a land widely celebrated for the arts — musical, literary and culinary, along with painting, architecture, and ceramics — Milan is also the center of fashion, business, and finance, with a bustling, energetic approach to life. The Milanese are often called “chic” rather than “attractive,” and to see for yourself, you need look no further than the frenetic Piazza del Duomo, the dazzling Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, or the parallelogram of streets known as Quadrilatero d’Oro, home to the city’s fashion icons.
So what’s its attraction for tourists? Why throw yourself to the wolves of haute couture and wrestle with captains of industry when you could opt for a quiet villa in Tuscany or a cozy “pensione” in Assisi? I asked myself those same questions before I visited again last November and came up with these five reasons: splendid architecture, incomparable art, world-class opera, fabulous food, and (window) shopping to die for.
ARCHITECTURE
As the capital of the region of Lombardy, Milan was home to some of the area’s greatest families during the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries. These dynasties were devoted patrons of the arts and commissioned lavish palaces, churches, and paintings. For a firsthand look at one of the most impressive, begin at Piazza del Duomo, Milan’s main orientation point and the site of one of the world’s largest gothic cathedrals. Unquestionably, it’s the most spectacular monument in the city, and those with an interest in architecture will have a field day following the various styles that characterize its interior and exterior (even though most of the cathedral is currently wrapped in scaffolding for yet another restoration).
Construction of the Duomo began in 1386 by order of Milan’s Bishop and Prince Gian Galeazzo Visconti, but it wasn’t completed for nearly 500 years. Built mainly of white marble with more than 130 spires and countless gargoyles, the facade is an intriguing combination of styles, ranging from gothic to neoclassical. As with most medieval building projects, it became a massive multicultural effort, with French and German masters called in to work with Lombard stonecutters and architects. Its massive interior has 52 giant pillars dividing the aisles, and on this visit I also explored the baptistery, treasury, and crypt to see its early Christian excavations and medieval gold and silverwork. The Duomo is open daily from 6:45 a.m. to 6:45 p.m.
On the secular side of Piazza del Duomo, dazzling Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is, simply put, Milan’s centerpiece. Home to touristy cafes, shops, restaurants (and while I was there, a lively filming of a music video complete with screaming fans); the galleria is familiarly known as il Salotto di Milano, Milan’s drawing room. With a floor plan shaped like a Latin cross, and its center adorned with inlaid mosaics, the galleria is an architectural gem. Its most stunning feature is the two-winged, glass- and metal-roofed arcade that connects Piazza del Duomo to Piazza della Scala, my next stop.
OPERA
While I wasn’t able to attend a performance at La Scala (wrong days to be there), I did tour the famous 18th-century opera house, one of the largest theaters in Europe with some of the best acoustics in the world (so good, performers do not use microphones!) And while I was there on days with no scheduled performances, if you visited Milan any time between 2001 and 2004, you would have been shut out, too. The theatre, which first opened on Aug. 3, 1778, underwent major conservation work during that period, including a complete overhaul of the technical layout, so a second attempt to visit is well worth it.
La Scala is best known as an opera house, but also hosts ballet performances and classical concerts throughout the year, except during August. If you’re planning a visit soon, it’s not too late to reserve for Jules Massenet’s French opera-comique “Manon,” or “La Bayadere,” a ballet by Pepita (both performing in May). Straus’ “Ariadne auf Naxos,” a baroque-rococo opera, and Purcell’s 17th-century English opera “Dido and Aeneas,” will be performed in June and July. For a small taste of the history of La Scala, explore its adjacent museum, created in 1913, and view its fabulous collection of sculpture, autographs, paintings, costumes, and artifacts related to the theatre. Admission to the museum, open daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., is 5 Euros. For details on performances, visit www.teatroallascala.org.
But for a real musical treat, book rooms at the nearby Carlton Hotel Baglioni (5 Via Senato), which, for the second consecutive year, is the designated “Filarmonica della Scala Hotel.” It has the privilege of hosting some of La Scala’s famous classical musicians, and in turn, offers a unique “Exclusive Private Concert Package” to guests. The package includes a two-night stay in a junior suite with breakfast, dinner at its Baretto restaurant, private limousine service to and from the theater, a personalized theater tour and attendance at a private rehearsal concert of the Filarmonica Orchestra della Scala. Remaining concerts for this season take place on May 7, 14 and June 10, and feature the works of Mozart, Beethoven, Mahler, Rachmaninov and Stravinski. For details on the offer, visit www.baglionihotels.com.
ART AND DA VINCI
No one should visit Milan without a sampling of Leonardo da Vinci — painter, sculptor, architect, and musician — a man who spent 17 years working here. His not-to-be-missed masterpiece “The Last Supper,” restored seven times since it was painted between 1495 and 1497, is perhaps the most visited so, after touring Santa Maria delle Grazie (2 Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie) and the 15th-century convent where it’s housed, I suggest you head to the National Museum of Science and Technology (21 Via San Vittore), which is devoted to his other artistic talents. Admission to the museum, open Tuesday to Sunday 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., is 7 Euros.
Da Vinci enthusiasts, who want to experience his city in style and comfort, might want to consider the “Da Vinci Package” being offered by the Hotel Principe di Savoia (17 Piazza della Repubblica). The package, available for weekend stays through the end of the year, includes accommodations, breakfast, daily limousine service, a monograph on the artist, and entrance to the view “The Last Supper.” For details on the offer, visit www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com.
For a sampling of other Italian Renaissance and Baroque masters — Mantagna, Raphael, Tintoretto, Caraveggio and della Francesca, to name a few — visit Pinacoteca di Brera (28 Via Brera), which houses Milan’s finest art collection in a stunning 17th-century palazzo. The Brera neighborhood — full of winding, narrow streets, low buildings, hidden courtyards, and a lovely botanic garden — is also worth exploring for a glimpse of Milan’s charming past. Its central location and authentic local color have turned this ex-craftsmen’s quarter into a hot spot for nightclubs, cafes and bars.
FASHION
Shopping in Milan is an art and a science. If you come armed with lots of Euros, you can, of course, shop ’til you drop. Second only to Paris in terms of haute couture and high prices, Milanese designers are said to be more concerned with understated stylishness, well-cut suits, elegant accessories, and chic but wearable shoes than their flamboyant Parisian counterparts. The fine art of shopping without regard to price is done in Quadrilatero, an area that includes Via Montenapoleone, dell Spiga, Sant’Andrea, Monzoni, Borgospesso and Santo Spirito. This area contains the most prestigious boutiques and showrooms in the fashion world; a place the Milanese like to say is “where luxury is the true protagonist.”
Iconic fashion designers ranging from Gucci to Versace have showrooms on Via Montenapoleone, the most famous of all addresses, but for an all-purpose experience, visit Spazio Armani (31 Via Manzoni), a multi-concept store where you can admire the full line or Armani wares — home and fashion — sip an aperitif at the Armani Cafe, or have dinner at Nobu, one in the chain of Japanese restaurants created by Nobuyuki Matsuhisa.
The science of finding a bargain in Milan is best carried out on four streets devoted almost exclusively to this purpose: Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Buenos Aire, di Porta Ticinese and Via Torino. Here you’ll find more affordable designs in large stores like Rinascente, H&M and Zara, along with sophisticated label shops like Bruno Magli, Max Mara, Furla and Pollini. Retail hours are generally 9:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., with some shops closed for lunch, a half-day on Monday, and all of Sunday. Hours vary at designer showrooms.
CUISINE
Cafes — sidewalk and otherwise — restaurants, trattorias, and pizzerias throughout Milan showcase world-class Lombard cuisine. Milanese specialties such as risotto with saffron, costoletta (breaded veal cutlet), wafer-thin bresaola (cured, raw beef), ossobuco (veal shin slow-cooked in tomato and wine), polenta (made from corn meal), and pasta of all shapes are among the most popular in this region. For dessert, you’ll be offered biscotti, a handmade biscuit with nuts, or panettone, a soft yeast cake made with sultanas. Gorgonzola, Bel Paese, Grana Padano, and Mascapone cheeses are all classics of the Lombardy region, so don’t leave town without a tasting.
INCIDENTAL INTELLIGENCE
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Principe di Savoia, 17 Piazza della Repubblica (62301, www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com), is widely recognized as one of Europe’s most outstanding hotels. It opened its doors in 1927 and has since welcomed visiting celebrities and heads of state, ranging from Queen Elizabeth to President George Bush. In 1992, its 404 rooms and suites were renovated, but each maintains the elegant 19th-century Lombard style for which the hotel is known. Its “belle epoque” lobby and public rooms nicely complement modern amenities, such as a state-of-the-art fitness center with pool, sauna, and Turkish bath. Restaurant Galleria is reminiscent of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele and offers classical, seasonal, and regional cuisine.
Carlton Hotel Baglioni, 5 Via Senato (77077, www.baglionihotels.com), is situated in the heart of Milan’s shopping and fashion district, with its own exclusive entrance to Via della Spiga, and steps from Via Montenapoleone, the Duomo, and the Teatro alla Scala. The elegant 90-room, five-star hotel opened in 1962 with additional renovations and improvements completed in 2002. The historical restaurant Baretto recently moved here from its original place in Via Sant’Andrea and features light Milanese and Mediterranean cuisine. The Caffe Baglioni, complete with grand piano, and the adjacent Sala Library, provides a warm and refreshing change from the conventional hotel lobby.
Park Hyatt Milan, 1 Via Tommaso Grossi (88-211234, www.milan.park.hyatt.com) combines contemporary luxury with understated elegance, a trademark of the Park Hyatt brand. Adjacent to the Galleria, across from Piazza del Duomo, its 117 rooms and 26 suites feature rich silks, Italian Travertine marble, and hand-blown Venetian glass. All-day dining is offered in La Cupola under a stunning glass dome, and seasonal Italian cuisine is served in the refined Park Restaurant.
WHERE TO EAT
Trattoria Milanese, 11 Via Santa Marta (864-51991), is conveniently located to the Duomo and the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio. The same family has run the restaurant for more than 70 years, a testament to its good food and service. Traditional Milanese favorites include risotto and cotoletta alla Milanese. Closed Tuesdays in summer.
La Bruschetta, 12 Piazza Beccaria (869-2494) is a bustling pizzeria situated near the Duomo. While it specializes in Tuscan-style pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven, there are plenty of other regional dishes to choose from, including grilled meats, fish, and the popular spaghetti with clams and mussels. Closed Mondays and three weeks in August.
Cracco-Peck, 4 Via Victor Hugo (876 774) is the result of Carlo Cracco, one of Italy’s major chefs, joining forces with Peck, the country’s top gourmet food store. The two-Michelin-starred restaurant serves fabulous food without being too excessive. If you can’t decide between the ravioli and the risotto or the pasta and polenta, try the six-course gourmet menu or the two more casual alternatives: the Peck store itself (around the corner at 9 Via Spadari) or Peck Italian Bar (3 Via Cesare Canty). Reservations are essential at Cracco-Peck. All are closed Sundays.
La Libera, 21 Via Palermo (805-3603), in the heart of the trendy Brera district, calls itself a birreria con cucina (beer cellar with kitchen), tapping into the youthful residents who frequent this neighborhood establishment. Visitors, though, will be well rewarded by its creative, seasonal cooking, such as insalata esotica (avocado, chicken, rice, and papaya salad) or rognone di vitello con broccoletti e ginepro (veal kidneys with broccoli and juniper berries). Not open for lunch.
VISITOR INFORMATION
The Tourist Information Office in Milan is at 1 Via Marconi (725-24301) off Piazza del Duomo. For tourist information in general, visit www.milanoinfotourist.com; for information on all of Italy, visit www.italiantourism.com.
The country code for Italy is 39; the city code for Milan is 02. All phone numbers are for local calls. The currency unit is the Euro.
ART: With six numbered color images with captions:
CAPTIONS:
IMAGE 1. Milan’s Duomo, (seen here before restoration began), is one of the world’s largest gothic cathedrals and the city’s most spectacular monument. Photo by Margaret Johnson. Slug: WF-FEATURE1-DUOMO
IMAGE 2. Showrooms of international designers like Hermes make Milan their home. Photo by Margaret M. Johnson. Photo by Margaret Johnson. Slug: WF-FEATURE1-HERMES
IMAGE 3. La Scala, the world famous 18th-century opera house, is one of the largest theaters in Europe. Photo by Margaret Johnson. Slug: WF-FEATURE1-LASCALA
IMAGE 4. Balcony boxes at LaScala are sumptuous fitted in brocade and velvet. Photo by Margaret Johnson. Slug: WF-FEATURE1-BALCONY
IMAGE 5. The Milanese call Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II “Milan’s drawing room.” Its glass- and metal-roofed arcade connects Piazza del Duomo to Piazza della Scala. Photo by Margaret Johnson. Slug: WF-FEATURE1-GALLERIA
IMAGE 6. Milan pays homage to Leonardo da Vinci at Piazza della Scala, where his statue looks out at the theater. Photo by Margaret M. Johnson. Slug: WF-FEATURE1-DAVINCI
Margaret M. Johnson has been writing about food and travel for more than 20 years. She is also the author of five Irish cookbooks, most recently “Irish Puddings, Tarts, Crumbles and Fools,” a desserts cookbook published by Chronicle Books, San Francisco.
(C) 2006 MARGARET JOHNSON DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
