On a recent visit to the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, I decided to explore some of the peaks overlooking the sand dunes, in the hope of finding an optimum viewpoint for photographing the dunes with the Crestone Range as a backdrop. Looking at a map and checking the guidebook, I thought that Carbonate Mountain or one of its subpeaks (Ptarmigan Peak) might be a candidate. It turned out that the hike was a delightful, if strenuous, outing, and I was rewarded with excellent views of the area.
Hike description
From the trailhead, hike east along the excellent Mosca Pass trail. The trail starts out in a pleasant, steep-sided canyon bottom, alongside Mosca Creek.
Eventually the canyon broadens out before reaching the Park Boundary (just before Mosca Pass) after 3.2 miles. An information board contains interesting facts concerning the history of the pass, including the fact that in 1890 the toll for a horse and rider was $1 – quite a bit in those days.
To climb the long ridge to Carbonate Mountain, backtrack to the trail junction 0.2 miles west of the park boundary (Waypoint “Trail Junction”). The junction is not signed, so pay attention. The trail drops slightly as it heads south into a meadow with an old cabin.
Follow the trail as it angles left (southwest) to gain the main ridgeline, then wanders up the ridge, finally leaving treeline near a minor ridge point labeled “11268” on the map. Look for the impressive peaks of the Sierra Blanca Massif due south, slightly to the left as you climb the ridge. On the left end of the massif are the peaks of the Mount Lindsey group, while the sharply pointed peak just in view to the right of Lindsey is the mighty Blanca Peak.
Now you also start to see nice views of the Sand Dunes and Crestone group, to the north. When I was there in early April, a storm had just moved out, leaving the trees coated in a thick layer of rime frost, creating a spectacular foreground. The ephemeral nature of this brilliant display was revealed when the sun hit the trees, causing the frost to drop to the ground within minutes.
After crossing a seemingly endless series of ridge points, you will reach Point 11,600. From here Ptarmigan Peak (12,250 feet) is a short distance away across a narrow peninsula. To reach the summit of Carbonate Mountain continue up and over Ptarmigan Peak.
Dave Cooper is the author of “Colorado Scrambles: A Guide to 50 Select Climbs in Colorado’s Mountains.”
The details
Getting to the trailhead: Take U.S. 285 south over Poncha Pass into the San Luis Valley. At 4.7 miles south of Villa Grove, turn left onto Colorado 17 and follow this road south for 36.6 miles to Sixmile Lane (Ln 6 N). Take Sixmile Lane (following signs to the Great Sand Dunes National Park) east for 16.1 miles to the intersection of Colorado 150. Turn north and drive 6.3 miles to the parking area for the Mosca Pass Trail, a quarter-mile past the Visitors Center for the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. This is a U.S. Fee Area.
Hike statistics: Trailhead to the summit of Carbonate Mountain (12,308 feet): 5,000 feet of total elevation gain in 14 miles roundtrip (500 feet of which is on the descent).
Difficulty: A moderate on-trail hike to Mosca Pass, followed by a long, strenuous ridge hike (on and off trail) to Carbonate Mountain. In early spring you may encounter significant snow at the higher elevations.
Guidebook: “The Essential Guide to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve,” by Charlie and Diane Winger
USGS Quad: Mosca Pass, CO
